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MG MGB Technical - Time setting knob on clock

The small knob on my clock that is used to set the time no longer moves the hands when it is pressed in and turned. Is this a problem internally or at the knob to metal shaft level?
Frank

Frank. The knobs I have examined are press fitted onto the splined metal shaft of the adjuster mechanism. You might want to remove the knob and see if you can then adjust the clock. If so, a drop of five minute epoxy should correct the situation. If not, time to have the mechanism repaired or to get a good used clock. Les
Les Bengtson

I had the same problem. Took the clock out and apart (HINT-they're not meant to be disassembled). Found that the plastic shaft of one of the plastic gears inside (that is turned by the adjustment knob) was broken. I found that a new clock was $99 so decided to repair the one I have.

Repair took some special tools (which I have because I'm a goldsmith). If anyone's interested, I can post a description of the process.
Chris Foleen

Chris, I would like to know about the process. My clock has the same problem as Frank in NC. If I can't repair it, how about an ammeter in its place. Has any one done that??

cheers

Gary
gary n

Gary, you would have to run all of your alternator power through your dash area or use a shunt type gauge.
I don't think it's a safe idea to run that many amps through the dash.

Kelly
Kelly Combes

I moved the clock to the spot formerly occupied by the cigar lighter in my '77. The hole in the dash now has a voltmeter. A voltmeter requires only modest current (amps) whereas an ammeter requires that all current consumed in the vehicle pass through it. Smiths made a voltmeter and one periodically appears on ebay.
Charles Edwards

Here's my clock repair description.

The clock is a can with a bezel holding in the lens (which is plastic). The adjuster knob passes through a hole in the lens, and you push against spring pressure and turn the knob to adjust the position of the hands. On my clock this knob stopped working, and at the same time the hour hand stopped moving. After determining that a new clock was out of my price range, I decided to try fixing it.

The bezel securing the lens to the "can" is pressed over a lip on the edge of the can, all the way 'round. To remove the bezel and access the works, this bezel must be carefully pried off the lip. The adjuster knob must be removed first, however. I found that the knob is pressed onto its shaft and can be removed by carefully pulling straight out (it's on a TIGHT spline). Fingers probably won't be adequate, you'll have to wedge it off with two flat-blade screwdrivers, or use a very small "puller." I used a small device intended for removing clock hands from their shafts; you might be able to find one at a watch/clock repair tool supplier. A watch hand puller would be too small, you need one for small clock hands.

After removing the adjuster knob, carefully pry the bezel away from the lip of the can. I used a small screwdriver to get the edge of the bezel away from the lip (all around) and then small pliers to bend it up straight enough all around to pop the bezel off the can. At this point I was able to see the gear that was causing the trouble. It was about 1/2 inch in diameter, white, and its shaft had broken off the plate. I saw that if I took the clock face I could drill out the place on the plate where the broken gear shaft had been, and epoxy in a replacement shaft made from a piece of wire of suitable diameter and length.

Removing the face requires removing the hands, and this is a very dicey operation. The hands are made of some incredibly fragile stuff that resembles compressed chalk. I managed to only break one, and was able to epoxy it back together. I pulled the hands off with the puller I mentioned above; another way would be to pull the whole face at once, using the face to push the hands off at the same time, but the hands may fly off when they come free, so watch out. At this time you should remove the adjustment shaft, being careful to hold on to the little spring and pay attention to how it fits on the shaft for reassembly. You will see that by pressing the shaft in against the spring, the small gear on the shaft engages the larger gear (whose shaft is broken) which in turn engages the hour hand gear.

With the face off, I could locate and drill out the where the broken shaft was on the plate, and epoxy in the replacement. The new shaft should be long enough to extend all the way through the plate, and also far enough through the gear to just visibly protrude. When the epoxy is cured (I used a good "five-minute" two-part epoxy; be careful to mix exactly equal portions, and thoroughly mix them for at least 60 seconds) slide the gear on the shaft and reassemble the adjustment knob shaft with its spring, then the face and hands.

When replacing the hands, the order is hour, minute, second. Line them all up precisely at 12:00 as you press them on, so they will have the correct relationship as they travel around (i.e. hour hand halfway between 3 and 4 when the minute hand is at 3:30). Then slide the works back into the can, put the lens on, and press the adjustment knob onto its splined shaft through the hole in the lens, and work the bezel over the lens and the lip of the can. Finish up by pressing the edge of the bezel back down over the lip of the can as tight as before you pried it off (or as close to that as you can). I used a fairly large punch (by hand, not with a hammer!) to push the bezel lip down and smooth it up.

I hope this is clear enough! Please let me know if you need any more info.
Chris Foleen

This thread was discussed between 25/03/2003 and 02/04/2003

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.