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MG MGB Technical - United States Summer Trip Advice.

I am moving from Wisconsin to California and need to travel across the US in my 67 BGT. Car has just under 100,000 original miles. Engine is stock with excellent compression in all cylinders No issues with overheating in the 10 years I have owned it. All the other major parts (front end, suspension, Transmission (D type OD unit) and rear end have either been rebuilt.

Other than flushing the cooling system , changing the oil, checking the OD transmission filter, any other suggestions as far as things I need to keep an eye on while driving?

I plan on taking my tools, spare coolant, and oil. Oh and yes, my North American MGB Register, contact book.

Thinking that it may be better to drive more towards the evening for crossing Utah and Nevada?
Bruce Cunha

Bruce. Much will depend on what route you are taking. Certainly, if you will be crossing the desert areas, water for drinking (one gallon, minimum) and water for the car would be in order.

I would make sure that all of the water hoses are in good condition and would bring a spare set of upper and lower radiator hoses--you can find heater hose along the route, but the specialty hoses you will not find at the local parts store. Might be worth looking up where you can find MG repair shops and use that as part of your route planning. I drove the Wyoming, Utah, Nevada route in a 69 BGT about 40 years ago. Great trip.

Les
Les Bengtson

We have an Aussie couple doing the Patagonia to Alaska trip in BGT next year - any of you guys attempted this trip?
Mike Ellsmore

I'm curious as to how someone can drive Patagonia to North America. There are no roads through the Darien Gap between Colombia and Panama; the car would have to be shipped...nevermind potholes larger than an MGB.
Bob Meyer

I would also bring a spare cap and rotor. You cannot find them at your corner Pep Boys.
r. LEARY

Bob, yeah they are shipping the car over that bit - seems it is a fairly regular occurrence. Car is being setup for extra big potholes!
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

For a long trip I would also take:
GPS
Fan belt
Moss Motors catalog
Cell phone
Compass
Map
Sunscreen
RainX
Check spare tire air pressure

Probably a lot of other stuff to consider, but those come to the top of the list.
Randy
Ithaca
PS I met Zelda from LA in March, and she drove a '78 MGB roadsgter, white, from LA to Georgia, then Detroit, and back to LA by herself, no tools, and seemingly little mechanical experience.
Randall Olson

Thanks All. BGT has petronix electoninc ignition, but I always carry a spare point plate all set up as a "just in case".

Because I will be traveling in August across interstate 80, heat is my primary concern. I will have tools and the misc spares mentioned. The car did the Wisconsin to Gatlinburg trip for GOF in 2006 with a few tire issues (fixed with new wire rims) and had one incident where the engine stopped due to what appeared to be a hot plug (very white plug). Head has been removed and the engine decoked since then New payton gasket installed and re tightened after 500 miles of use.
Bruce Cunha

Consider plumbing in a faucet pump along with your SU Bruce. Wire it with either a switch (as I have on my TF) or just off the key side of the fuse block and and put a spade fuse inline (what I did on my B) and leave the fuse out unless you need it. Both have saved me the misery of a road side repair. I'd also buy a tire tube if you are running tubes. A lot of tire shops don't keep them in stock any more. I keep one in the TF now after I had two flats in Reno during MG 2011 and would do the same if I were on the road with the B. Took me forever to find a tire shop that would touch the wire wheels and then a long wait while they went across town to get some tubes. They bent me over pretty good on the price as well.


It's hit and miss on the summer heat. But if the forecast is brutal I would suggest you get up before dawn and hit the road and plan your next stay for around 2pm. The heat can take a long time to cool down. The sun will be at your back instead of in your eyes as well. I have walked out of a Vegas casino at 9 pm and looked up at a temp sign to see 120 degrees.
MG LaVerne

Thanks LaVerne

The secondary fuel pump was the first additional part that went on the B. I built a 68 B for my wife back in 1980 and learned the hard way about not having a back up.

Tube is a good suggestion to add to the spares list. I agree on the tire changing. I had to get in on a not well balanced spare coming back from Gatlinberg. Drove to our club just so I could use our manual tire changer.
Bruce Cunha

do all the servicing work on the car at least a month before your trip and drive the car regularly on reasonable length journeys and long runs during that month

that way you will thoroughly check your servicing work and test any new parts you've put on

replace suspect parts and components at that service rather than leaving them on the car and having to carry a spare because you don't fully trust them

I don't believe in carrying spares, rather that the car fully works and is reliable so capable of any journey as it would have been back in the day - but I can be more confident because I use my car as a daily so know what's working on it and how well which is why I say use yours regularly for a month before you go

I do carry a manual foot pump and separate accurate tyre pressure gauge (instead of a spare wheel but I don't have the liabilities of wire wheels)

when doing your coolant change I'd suggest -

• first clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner
• then drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator
• use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole whilst draining old coolant and flushing out
• flush each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean
• refill with the correct pre-mixed coolant mixture
• follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine

At the same time you may also want to:
• check and change if required the thermostat
• remove the heater valve and clean out both the water ways, lubricate the valve and refit the cable to fully open (or fully closed, usually you can’t get both)
• check that the (radiator) pressure cap is the correct pressure rate for your car and carefully check it is in good condition as it is difficult to see if the cap has a weakened spring and seal renew the cap if in doubt
• check and replace as required the fan belt and check the fan is clean and secure, metal fans have rubber grommets that can perish too
• make sure there are no obstructions to the cooling air getting to the rad or under the car (like badge bar and badges, spot lights, etc.)
• make sure all the rad fins aren't bent and brush debris from them

this all assumes your water pump is in good condition and operating fully, sorting your cooling would help even if you were going somewhere hot but sounds vital for your journey

good luck
Nigel Atkins

I am printing that one Nigel. Sounds like a good checklist for cooling system.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce,
if you remove and scrape out the engine block hole as you drain the existing coolant and as you flush you might be very surprised at how much crud comes out

some owners have found the drain completely blocked

my more thorough system clean and overall involves a bit more than I've listed here just email me for it if you're interested, most that have don't follow it thinking it OTT perhaps but when Dave did he later moaned that he thought following it might have overcooled his car, it hadn't of course it had just released more of the cooling system's cooling potential
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 15/05/2014 and 26/05/2014

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