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MG MGB Technical - US 69b steering column

I have play in my steering column.
It is located in the colapsible part.I know that this suject have already been on thic BBS, but I can't found it in the archives.
How can I fix it without changing it.

Pierre
Pierre

How much at the wheel with the top half of the UJ held in grips or similar i.e. to eliminate play anywhere else in the system? It seems to be common, and whereas play anywhere else in the steering (and up and down play at the wheel) is a UK MOT failure play within the column itself isn't. Mine has about 1/4", my Toyota Celica manual says up to 1/2" is OK.
Paul Hunt

Paul
I finaly found some threads in the archives searching for " collapsible" insted of "colapsible" one more "L" makes a great diference.
To be more accurate about the play I have

No play in the steering rack
A litle play at the junction between the steering rack pinion and the UJ , I tried to tighten the bolt but was unable to mouve it, this bolt is smaller than the one fited at the other and of the UJ is it normal or fited by the previous owner.
No play at the UJ itself and at the junction with the steering column.
The major play is in the steering column about 1/2" or more and it seems to have increased recently.
You said you have stuch a play at your steering wheel and that this is not critical, but french MOT is paranoid with this.
Fortunotly no up and down movement.

Pierre

Pierre

OK, 1/2" or more probably is too much. I can't recall seeing any specific instructions on how to correct this, more a general comment about removing the column then drilling and pinning the two halves of the inner column. Some have subsequently said that this reduces if not destroys the ability of the collapsible column to do its job, but frankly if I were worried about that I probably wouldn't be driving a B anyway.
Paul Hunt

Gerry Masterman who posts frequently on the www.MGBExperience.com BBS has crafted a repair part that eliminates this and sells them for modest amount. Have heard it works well and since it's a small part shipping to you wouldn't be too costly. Email me offline or look him up on that BBS.

John
69 B Roadster,Pale Primrose

J.T. Bamford

Paul
Thanks for your response, I think I will spend a few hours in my work shop.

Jhon
Thanks too
I already read some tips about G Masterman, his web page, http://shadetreemg.com/gem.htm ,list two remplacement parts for uper an bottom bearing but nothing about this little plastic bit that secure together iner and outer shaft.I will ask him about this.

Pierre

Pierre

Pierre,
from your last post I understand that your problem is with the plastic pin holding the two shafts together.
I once read a tip in a German classic car magazine about this problem, they recommended filling the hole with hot glue (the kind that becomes fluid whet heated and hard again when it cools down).
I haven't tried this myself, but passed the tip on to another Dutch '69 B owner who did it and was very happy with the results.
I don't know if the glue would be strong enough to withstand the forces on it if you have serious play between the shafts...
HTH,
Rufus
R Pool

On every steering column that I have been into, it appears that the friction material was injected into the gap between the two pieces of the shaft, through two about 1/16" holes in the outer shaft. The plactic filled two recesses around the diameter of the inner shaft to form a tight seal between the two pieces. Most of the time, when the two halves are split, the plastic material fails to the extent that it cannot be reused. On several columns, I have simply drilled two holes through the inner shaft to match the outer holes and inserted 1/16" split cotters in the holes. The cotters are small enough and soft enough so that they will shear upon impact to allow the column to collaps as designed, but have to be replaced once sheared. I have not tried the hot glue trick but I intend on trying it if I can find a hotglue gun that I can build enough pressure to completely fill the cavities. Another solution would to use plastic rods, aka Pic up stiks, instead of cotters. As a last resort, the two halves can be welded together, disabling the collapsable feature, all together.
Gerry

Pierre, Both u-joint bolts should be the same size, as I recall they are 5/16" bolts with 24 threads/in. but I don't know the length. My 68 had some play in the collapsible joint and I used two 1/8" aluminum pop rivets to tighten it. I drilled 1/8" holes through the outer shaft small holes to the correct depth to accept the rivets. I didn't remove the plastic but selected a rivet long enough to go about half way through the inner shaft. It was done about 3 years ago and is still tight. I'm not sure how much effect the rivets would have on the collapsible joint but the steering sure feels better.

You can see a disassembled photo I made of a junk column I used to observe the construction of the collapsible joint. Click on the steering column album, the details of the collapsible joint are in photo 9.
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/flash1929/my_photos
Good luck, Clifton
Clifton Gordon

Thanks for all your tips gentlemen.

For Rufus and Gerry
I will disassemble my column and, scratching my head, I will think about the two good advises you gave to me.
For Gerry
What is the material of your cotter ?

For Clifton

Pop rivet have a hard metal isert ,did he stay in place or did you remove it before sliping the rivet
in place.
I alredy seen your pics galery and saved it on my hard drive.

Pierre
Pierre

This thread was discussed between 12/07/2004 and 15/07/2004

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