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MG MGB Technical - Wheel cylinder circlip

What's the procedure for fitting the retaining clip on the rear wheel cylinder? The old ones just disintegrated. I can't seem to slide them on or hammer them over.

Thanks
Steve
SSA Aichele

I fit them by positioning them concentric to the cylinder boss and use a large screwdriver to press them down into the slot. Easier without the brake pipe fitted.
dominic clancy

Forget using the stupid little clip, it really is a pain....

Take the roll pin locater out of the back of the cylinder (next to the bleed nipple), drill and tap the hole 4BA or 5mm and fit using a socket cap screw.

Done... easy!

Mark.
M T Boldry

Steve. I file the open end to a steeper angle, reducing the front "lugs" of the clip by about one half. Then, I can fit the circlip onto the wheel cylinder. I have never had one come loose with the modified circlip, but you want to make sure that all of the legs are fully seated into the groove in the wheel cylinder. Drilling and tapping the hole for the locating pin has been suggested over the years, just as Mark suggests it now. But, it is normally suggested by people who know how to properly tap a hole and have the competency to open the hole to properly fit the selected tap if necessary. Drill too deep when opening the hole and you ruin the wheel cylinder. Insert the tap crookedly and you have a good chance of breaking off the tap in the hole, ruining the wheel cylinder. Tapping is something you get better at over the years but, having done machining work for over 20 years, I sometimes screw up and break off a tap or start the tap in offset, ruining the work piece.

They make a special tool to help install the circlip and I believe that Chris Betson of Octarine Services sells them. Some have tried the tool with good results and some have tried the tool and reported poor results.

My method has worked well, on four of my cars, and on several friends cars, for over a decade. You might try it and see if it will work for you.

Les
Les Bengtson

REAR WHEEL brake cylinder

You'll need:

a) one 3/8" x 24 (NF) x 2" bolt, nut, and washer.
b) a small screwdriver.
c) medium-sized Vise Grip pliers.
d) a socket that'll slip over the threaded brake line boss on the wheel cylinder. The lip of the socket must be able to reach slightly past the groove that is on thread brake line boss on the wheel cylinder. I use an 11/16" socket.
e) a lightweight hammer and a long drift.

=================

Here's how: (it is actually easier than it sounds as written, here)

1) Clamp the pair of Vise Grip pliers onto the axle wheel flange - so that the back of the Vise Grip braces the wheel cylinder against the brake backing plate and holds it there.
This'll free both hands for the "real work".

2) Hold up the E-clip so that the center tab is nearly seated in the groove on the wheel
cylinder - while using the small screwdriver to pry on one of the ear tabs onto the groove
that is on the wheel cylinder.

Be gentle, and try to do as little bending as you can get away with.

3) Try as best as you can to pry the second ear tab into the groove. You'll never be able to get all three tabs seated fully home - but do as best as you can - then step away and relax.

4) Place the socket over the brake line boss that is on the wheel cylinder.

5) Thread on the 3/8" nut fully home onto the 3/8" bolt and slip on the washer after it.

6) Install the 3/8" bolt & nut & washer assembly onto where the brake line would normally go on the wheel cylinder (this will all be placed through the 11/16" socket). No need to torque the bolt tight.

7) Once the bolt is seated, turn the 3/8" nut & washer against the socket. This will push the E-clip home. Do this until you see all three tabs engage the groove on the wheel cylinder.

8) Give the E-clip a few gentle taps with the lightweight hammer and drift in order to
ensure that all 3 tabs are fully seated and properly engaged.

9) Whoila! Finis. Remove the 3/8" bolt and socket, and Vise Grips.


With credit to whoever posted this years ago!
Michael Beswick

Or just use a regular circlip which has the same effect and is simple to fit.
Miles Banister

Steve
Here are a couple of ideas from the Chicagoland Mg Club

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/536.html

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/0903/jasw.html

Hope this helps
Kent
DK McNeill

Made a tool out of various scrap bits - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_brakesframe.htm and click on 'E-clip Fitting Tool'.
Paul Hunt 2010

I'm with Miles. just use a circlip/snap ring Takes about 5 seconds to install. If you can find a Wavy washer to back it up that's even better.
MK Mike K

I can't remember how I did mine but I do remember it involved a lot of swearing.

Wouldn't a normal circlip sit flat whereas the e-clip has some curve to it (hence being such a pain to fit). I thought the curve was there to pull the cylinder tight to the backing plate. Is a wave washer enough?

Simon Jansen

'Tight' would be a relative term, it may well stop it rattling about, but as soon as you apply the brakes the forces of the shoes on the drum are almost certainly going to move the cylinder in the backplate to some extent. I remember seeing wear marks on both sides when I stripped and repainted mine.
Paul Hunt 2010

I did wonder whether it would be too loose when I first went for a regular circlip, but there have been no problems so far after nearly a decade and at least 25k miles.
Miles Banister

This thread was discussed between 23/05/2010 and 28/05/2010

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