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MG MGB Technical - Which Bushings are Best?
I'm planning to replace the front and rear bushing sets on my 73B. I'm trying to decide whether to go with the Energy Suspension bushings sold by Vic Brit or the Prothane bushings sold by Moss. Both are made polyurathane. The Moss ones look to have metal inserts. I would appreciate any advise based on experience with these products or suggestions of other alternatives. Is one type easier to install than the other? Mike |
Mike |
Mike- Sadly, almost all of the aftermarket suppliers in the USA offer only the harder varieties of polyurethane bushings, being either of the "Racing & Competition" or of the "Fast Road & Rally" type. Some of these bushings are real "bargain basement" items in terms of their quality. Firmer bushings, such as those made from nylon, will reduce compressibility in the suspension component mounting points and make small steering inputs result in correspondingly small reactions in the steering. In other words, the steering will become more precise, but the greater reactivity will also demand that you pay closer attention to what you're doing. Unfortunately, because they're harder, you will feel more vibration emanating from the suspension, hear more road noise, and your hands will feel smaller pavement imperfections through the steering wheel. Hit a big pothole and you'll know it! Even worse, the greater transmission of these forces means that associated load-bearing components (Steering rack and column components, tie rods, balljoints, kingpins, swivel axle bushings, dampers, etc.) will wear more quickly. Hard bushings are also not only unnecessary for either the mountings or the attachment points of Stabilizer Bars, Panhard Rod ends, and Antitramp Bars as they offer no benefit in handling, but are actually undesirable as they will fail to damp out vibration and road shock. In reality, there are better options for increasing steering response while avoiding most of these drawbacks. In my opinion, Superflex over in the UK makes the best, and the price is quite reasonable for the quality of their product. They don't injection mold them (a sure sign of an El Cheapo bushing), they start life as a solid rod that is actually precision machined to size and shape on computerized machines. As a result they will slip-fit into place. This is not often the case with molded bushings. Sometimes you have to pound them into place with a mallet, which will result in their bores being distorted or compressed, which in turn will cause them to squeak. Superflex bushings are self-lubricating once installed. They even include stainless steel sleeves so that rust can't abrade them. If you want to purchase a softer set (like rubber) for use in a daily driver, go to http://www.racecar.co.uk/superflex/ and specify 80 Shore-A bushing material for the A-arm (wishbone) bushings and 90 Shore-A bushing material when you order the trunnion, leaf spring, and stabilizer bar bushings. Superflex makes bushings for 7/8", 3/4", 11/16", 5/8", and 9/16" stabilizer bars. I would recommend 70 Shore-A material for the crossmember pads. Superflex has a website at http://www.racecar.co.uk/superflex/ |
Steve S. |
Check out www.polybush.co.uk Their "blue" bushings are supposed to be equivalent to OE in hardness (softness?) I'm using the blue variety on my midget with good results. I'm sure the MGB versions would be of the same quality. |
Ronald |
This thread was discussed on 17/01/2004
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