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MG MGB Technical - Winter Project Questions??

This winter I want to do a 'few' projects on my 1979 MGB and want to make sure I don't do anything "damaging"...

The project is to clean-up the area around the engine, possibly give the engine a coat of paint (without removing the engine).

My plan is this: pull out the radiator, electric fans, horn and clean around the area and the front part of the engine (painting what I can at this point.

Remove the distributor/ coil/ spark plug wires/ oil filter (cover oil filter area with a plastic bag. Clean off the starter(not take it out). Clean and paint all engine area's that I can. Also, take off valve cover and sand smooth and re-paint too.

When I re-install the Dizzy it will be a point system, new coil, spark plug wires, and nwe oil filter, valve gasket etc. etc.

Then paint other side of engine and remove, if needed the intake/exhaust etc.

While I have parts off, I'll clean the sides of the panels where the fuse box/wires are too. Even put replacement blue tape on wires etc.

So the question is this... will it hurt anything if I have the radiator drained for about a month?

If my plans are to re-install a new dizzy/etc. and I follow the directions for installation.. is it ok to just put a piece of tape over the opening where the dizzy goes while cleaning/painting?

When I reinstall the radiator/hoses, I'll use new anti-freeze, plus install a new thermostat (currently running one to low 160 degree, will change to 180).

At the time I am done, I will drain the oil, put new filter/oil in before starting.

I only have 'basic' tools and yanking the engine out is not part of the plan.

Any concerns I should consider before starting this project? (Other than have on hand some new gaskets for the valve cover, etc.??

Don 1979 MGB
Don

Leaving the cooling system drained will not cause any problems just keep the system sealed up, it's amazing where mice will go. You can tape over the hole for the dizzy or stuff it with a lint free rag. It is best to change the oil before storage rather than after, acids in dirty oil can etch metal. Put a shot of oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand before storing. When restarting in spring, remove the sparkplugs and crank the engine over untill you get a reading on the oil pressure gauge, than replace the plugs and start her up.
John H

Hey John, thanks for the quick response. I'll cover any openings for hoses etc. per your advice. (OK to cover with small plastic sandwich bags and tape?

Hopefully this project will only take a couple of weeks to do, maybe a month at most. (depending on how soon misc parts needed arrive) When your retired like I am, there are 6 Saturdays every week to work on projects.

During the winter months I normally do not moth-ball the MGB. If a day is sunny, dry, and above 40 degrees it goes out for a drive 25-30 miles.

Would letting it set for a few weeks with the current oil / then changing before I do any driving damage anything? Could I avoid doing the "adding oil to the cylinders" etc.?

I've owned the "B" for 7 years and have always managed to drive it a "little bit" during the winter months. This year it is suppose to be a mild winter and I am looking forward to winter journeys.

I plan on using paint for engines from a local "Auto Zone" or "Auto Advance" store... I can't see paying extra postage from Moss or Victoria British.

Any other tips you think of, please send.

Don
Don

"Would letting it set for a few weeks with the current oil / then changing before I do any driving damage anything? "

Highly unlikely, depending on how long your 'few weeks' is. Even three months wouldn't be a problem for an engine ready to go, although if the plugs are out and carbs/air filters are off then you could get bore corrosion in a damp environment. If not oil in the cylinders isn't necessary. Tyres are likely to be the first casualty if the car is standing on them, I'd turn them 1/4-turn per month, no problem if the axle and spring pans (as close to the tyre as possible) are on blocks (wood, not concrete or aggregate).

If I can't get mine on the road over winter I run it for 20 mins at a fast idle (wedge under throttle back-stop, not choke) once per month as well as turning the wheels. Delay in oil pressure rise is no different to 2 or 3 days without use.
Paul Hunt 2

Hi Paul, If I take the plugs out it would only be to stick in some old ones while I paint. And, if the carb air cleaner is off (and/or I take off the intake/exhaust) they would only be off for that day or 2 project for cleaning and painting.

This shouldn't cause corrosion... right??

I've never put my "B" up on blocks... but I do put down a heavy gauge plastic cover on the garage floor to keep the "dampness" off the bottom of the MGB. Garage is unheated.... this poor boy from Penna heats the house instead.

Tyres get turned at least one or two times each month when I go for a trip.... but maybe I should let it fast idle at least once a month like you suggest too?

Thanks for your help, any other suggestions, please send.

Don
Don

Sounds like you have some fun planned for this winter. My plan is to finally start working on the 74.5 GT. I pulled the head last night due to the weeping problem and figure since I have it off then I might as well have it checked for cracks. I'll rebuild the carbs too while I'm at it and finally get the exhaust hooked up. Oh, and then there is the clutch pedal thats sitting on the floor. She's been out of commision for about 4 years, and the goal is to have her running good by March. Since work will hopefully slow down some, then I think thats achievable!

Mike
mgbgt74

I am a relative novice and I have had the engine on the floor in just over 2 hours from running. Given what you are doing anyway it would only take an hour to pull the engine (leave gearbox insitu). This would make the cleaning up much much easier and more relaxing! If you don't take the clutch off you don't even need to worry about alignment and putting it back in will be trouble free!

Iain
I D Cameron

Good point Lain, but.... I only have 'basic' hand tools, no lift... and I don't want to get in over my head in this winter project. Just want to remove a few years of accumulated grease/dirt.

Thanks for your reply!

Don
Don

Hello

I did it some winters ago. I removed everything that can be removed, carb, manifold, dizzy, starter, even these "easy to put back" tappet cover. The only thigs that remained were engine block and fuel line; I had to pull the head anyway to have a broken valve repaired (you know what "might as well" is). I covered the block and cleaned and repainted the engine bay. How easy it is that way! I cleaned all the things and gizmos and put them back one by one. An advice: take a lot of pictures, take notes, draw a lot of sketches. There is more things in there than a human memory can stock.
Good luck
M Gaudreault

This thread was discussed between 12/10/2006 and 18/10/2006

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