MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Wire Hub Banjo Axle Oil Seal Replacement.

Took the B for it's first really decent run today, the car has completed just 408 miles in the last four years since a full restoration. The car is a '64 3 sync, Banjo axle model.

After 50 miles or so we made a stop. Checked around the car, as you do, and found grease and/or oil on the lower rear wheel arch (outside) and a few drops on the leading edge of the arch. I assumed, incorrectly, that it was simply grease from the spline where I refitted that wheel recently, but it appears more like EP90, fairly 'gooey' in texture and definitely green in colour. Cleaned it off and made the return run, 50 miles back and the same result, green goo on the wheel arch.

I haven't checked the axle breather yet but, assuming the breather isn't blocked, how difficult a job is it to change the axle oil seal on a wire wheel banjo axle? I've changed the oil seal on the '78 GT's disc wheel Salisbury axle and that was a pretty straightforward job but none of the maintenance books I have is particularly clear regarding this job.

Is it possible for the lever arm dampers to leak oil onto the wheel and produce the same result? Is the lever arm damper oil green and gooey?
Steve Hubbard

Steve
I have had to do this recently on my 65 car. Ihave the large box spanner needed but for a decent photo step by step view have look at the site www.mgaguru.com. The same back axle is fited to the MGA An American site by a real enthusiast.
George
G R Wilder

Check the breather it is the problem on most banjo leaks.
Lee Bradley

I did this on one side of my 65 mgb roadster just after I purchased it in 1991. It is disk wheeled so there are some minor differences from yours. Here's the text from the original BMC manual.

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove brake drum to from hub after unscrewing four nuts.
3. Remove the countersunk phillips screw securing the hub extension to the hub. Withdraw the axle shaft and hub extension.
4. You'll need a to rent a hub puller to get the hub off the axle housing.
5. Remove the bearing spacer.
6. Pry up tab of lock washer and unscrew the nut. This is a BIG issue because the nut is a special 8 sided affair. Also the torque is 180 lb-ft. You can buy the socket from Moss or maybe get one from a club.
I used a trick I learned when removing an old VW generator pulley ( think these were installed with 150+ lb-ft of torque). I used a suitably sized punch and banged away at the outer edge of one of the nut faces. I reinstalled it the same way. At that time the special socket was not available. If you do this right you'll only leave a dimple on the facet.
7. Then use the hub puller to remove the hub.
8. Then you can remove the bearing and seal.
9. Be sure to pack the bearing with grease before assembly. I replaced my bearing as it felt rough. Now is the time to do it along with the seal.
10. I used the punch to carefully drift the bearing into the hub. There was a special factory driver for this.
The factory manual states that the face of the bearing spacer should protrude 0.001-0.004in (.025-.102mm) beyond the hub face after pressing into place. This assures the bearing is gripped between the abutment shoulder in the hub and the driving flange of the axle shaft. I had no problem meeting this interference figure. I guess if it was off you'd have to shim under the bearing or something or get a thicker bearing spacer. The manual doesn't say what to do.

I recommend you drain the axle lube before starting this. If you don't feel confident take it to a mechanic who understands this sort of hub. Either a British car shop or perhaps a truck shop.

Be sure to get a spare lockwasher for this (it is special so get it from Moss or another dealer). The retainer tab is likely to break and you don't want a hub spinning. I'd also look into a new nut if you can find one in case the old one is fouled up.

PS. I used the reverse of the nut removal using the punch. No problems since 1992. I never did do the other side.

You'll likely need new brake linings.
Robert McCoy

Thanks guys!
Steve Hubbard

Hi Folks:
If you find that the breather isn't clogged, you may have a scored seal surface. In addition try to determine where the leak source is, seal, hub "o" ring or hub paper gasket? etc. Most banjo's are more than 40 years old, and sometimes a new seal isn't the answer, as indicated in Barneys Gaylords "MGA Guru" web page. If the nipple on the banjo seal surface is scored, then you need a speedi-sleeve to restore the seal surface. As Barney indicates, the speedi-sleeve must be installed "wet", using sealant under the speedi-sleeve during installation to prevent further leakage.

PS: You can do this job witout draining the axle, jack the car and do that side, oil goes to the other side etc:

Good luck: Rich Boris 67B roadster
R. Boris

This thread was discussed between 02/03/2008 and 04/03/2008

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.