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MG MGF Technical - 10% more power for £35

Hope this is a bit more eye-catching - my previous post 'Cool Air Intake' seems to be behaving like a damp squib! This is what it said -

I've at last managed to achieve an effective cool air system, and it turned out to be quite an easy job - the worst bit was getting the engine cover off and back on again. (Wouldn't it be nice to have quick-release clamps?!!)
It seems to work a treat, as when I start the engine the intake air temperature actually goes down!
I'll put it on my website in due course, but in the meantime I've done a PDF version that I could email to anyone who might be interested. Send me a message at mikesstuff(at)f2s(dot)com (just substitute the usual @ and .) and I'll attach it to my reply.


Mike Cunningham

i think alot of people on here have already done this mod. I myself have a K&N apollo routed to the N/S vent and then added grp cowls to encourage airflow into it.
S Collis

OK I admit the title is a bit tongue in cheek, but I'm sure it'll give a real improvement, and it's easy to do!
Should use a little less fuel too...
Mike Cunningham

Mike,
is this in conjunction with a K&N?
My under car cold air pipes were destroyed by a squirrel.
Ddraig G

The side vent will only work if air is sucked through it. This means you will need an enclosure of some sort.

I found my home-made enclosure made it difficult to clean the airfilter (because of all the gaffer tape) so I eventually replaced it with a professional system. I believe Rob Bell still uses an enclosure for his K&N that came from an old Rover 800.

Chris
Chris

Hi Mike,

I've been meaning to get round to a similar thing for my Vadar. For interest, did you remove the old airbox or leave it in situ?

Also, what did you attach the end of the pipe to?

Cheers, Russ

PS. Although when I discussed something similar with Mike Satur, he did not think it would give much benefit over a pipe that exited under the car. Mine is currently clipped to the subframe etc.
Russ D Mellor

Ddraig - no,just a fairly new standard filter in the existing filter box, but bypassing the resonator box below.
Chris - disagree on that - the only air that can get into the intake I've got just behind the side vent gauze has to come from the outside, as the route for hot air coming from the engine compartment is almost completely blocked off. Therefore no scoop needed. Also ram effect only becomes significant at aircraft speeds!
Russ - the new bit of ducting attaches to the elbow on the air filter box - dead easy!
The pdf with it all on is a small file and quick to download. I've sent it to a couple of guys already.
Mike Cunningham

Mike a further improvement is to use a TF 160 or Trophy air box with a ITG panel filter. This airbox has two intake hoses with proper ram pipes on the ends, and is a larger capacity. One of the hoses can then be easily routed to the passenger side air vent as you have. You need to change the support bracket to the matched version as the early one is different and you will also need to cut away a portion of the resonant chamber for it to fit. Advantages are cool air input, larger capacity filter ( greater surface area) so more free flowing twin intake pipes to the air box, and it is still a quiet as a standard airbox.
Dave

Might do that if I ever get to fit the TF135 camshafts ;-)
Mike Cunningham

Chris, I do indeed - and since the lid is clip on, servicing the filter is no problem (albeit a little more involved than a completely exposed cone filter of course!) For those not familiar with the mod, more here: http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/airbox/index.htm

The cold intake for a standard airbox is a great idea - and it'll come as no surprise that this is a well trodden route. A similar kit has been available from Moss since 1997 (which actually is needlessly expensive) - and in fact remains available - more here http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1835

As it so happens, I have got one of these in my parts bin - the ID is a mere 70mm. Mike's looks to be 90mm? Should flow more air in that case...
Rob Bell

It's the 63mm bore version, but it has the advantage of being a good fit onto the elbow. if it looks big enough, perhaps it is!
Mike Cunningham

Just had a look at the Moss page - as you say it looks expensive for what you get. Mine's much cheaper and looks much better!
Mike Cunningham

You're not wrong!

I'd be very interested in putting your instructions on the mgf.ultimatemg.com website for all to see :o)

Let me know if you'd like them hosted :o)
Rob Bell

No problem Rob - have you got my pdf already? If not get in touch and I'll send it.
I'm hoping we'll get the nice day we're promised up here on Friday so I can give it another go. (Got to buy fuel alas, but I think I'll do as a good friend of mine used to do with his XK140C many years ago - buy the top grade as the tax is a smaller percentage!)
Mike Cunningham

email away! :o)
Rob Bell

Rob, I sent one through the ultimatemg website - just making sure you got it?
Mike Cunningham

Yup, got it - hopefully will get time this weekend to update the website! :o)
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed between 19/06/2008 and 08/07/2008

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.