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MG MGF Technical - 52mm Throttle Body install
|Don't shout..!?! its well covered, but I'm panicing!|
I have just bought a 52mm TB and ready to install this weekend.
I have searched the archives, and found numerous references, but no handy follow-this-link guide.
Does anyone know of one?
Would be especially handy if anyone had a pictorial dummies guide!
I have heard comments about
- ratchet spanners
- stepper resets
- cable tension, and
So if no guide.., then.
What kind&size ratchet spanner? and how to I make sure its sealed? And is this butterfly and cable tension easy to check?
I replaced the OEM plastic TB with a new shiny aluminium one last weekend. I should've taken some pics but didn't ;-(
In any event, I simply followed the instructions in the RAVE manual for an OEM replacement with no problems (so far).
Anyhow, some notes:
1. The TB is held on with four 8mm bolts. As you're looking at it (from the rear obviously), this is how I found it best to remove the bolts:
1.1 Top, nearest you. Easiest, standard 8mm ratchet spanner, though a non ratchet will do.
1.2 Top, other one. You really need a ratchet spanner for this baby, a non ratchet will require numerous reseats of the spanner. (Experience speaking!)
1.3 Bottom, nearest you. Spanner utterly useless due to no rotational access. I found the best thing to use was a 8mm socket with the socket screwdriver (and possibly extension).
1.4 Bottom, other one. Same as 1.3.
2. One of the hoses (cannot remember if it was the idle air intake or t'other one) has a really awkward (non-Jubilee-type) clip that careened off down the garden somewhere. Invest in a couple of 1"ish Jubilee clips to replace these boys.
3. I can't remember which order the RAVE manual says to remove the various connections in, but IIRC, the cable was the *last* thing I did. In order to get the end of the cable outa the TB (and this is real Krypton Factor stuff), you need to completely rotate the TB so that the cable 'rewinds' out of it. It should be obvious when you do it (I hope).
4. Reinstallation is just the reverse. The only thing I can say is to not lose the plot with the four 8mm bolts... the access is bad enough getting them out without trying to get them back in. Do not have a selection of non-8mm spanners and/or sockets in your boot or you might have the uncontrollable urge to fling 'em up the road in frustration. (Oh, yes, experience speaking.)
5. Despite the manual suggesting that cable adjustment may be necessary, I found that it wasn't.
6. Oh, and I've a K&N installed, so I could completely remove the filter before starting. I imagine if you have the OEM airbox installed, the access will be further reduced.
7. The only butterflies I had was when I turned the ignition on for the first time and it still worked ;-)
|>One of the hoses (cannot remember if it was the idle air |
>intake or t'other one) has a really awkward
>(non-Jubilee-type) clip that careened off down the
>garden somewhere. Invest in a couple of 1"ish Jubilee
>clips to replace these boys.
Forget clips, the hoses should just be press fit (they are under negative pressure, so sucked into place in any case).
|Great, thanks v.much for your efforts! |
I have that CD, so will go through it..
I will fit it either this weekend or in two weeks (going away).
Either way.. if I take photos of the whole gig.., is there someone that could make it available?
Dieter? Rob? Scarlet? Anyone?
|No problem to put your story and piccies online.|
I have a set of pictures myself, but they didn't make it to the web yet, as it didn't start from the beginning.
|Have a look at this for some pics/how to fit, its for a front engined car but the same principle applies (you will just be looking at it from the other side of the engine)|
|Neil, I'd definitely be interested in any pix / notes etc! :o) I've also got some instructions written up - intended for MG World before that mag sadly folded :o(|
Colin, can I reproduce your instructions as well? Definitely agree with the need for a 8mm ratchet spanner - a tip that Tim gave to me that saved much time and heart ache!!!
|Will, negative pressure? That sucks! ;-) I *was* wondering why the upper hose was not secured, though the lower hose definitely had some sort of clip (which I will undoubtedly suck into the lawnmower come Spring).|
Rob, no problem at all. Please feel free to edit/remove any impertinent comments that are scattered throughout the text!
|All you need to do now is take it to Brown and Gammons for calibrating on there computer, so that you get the full benifit out of it !|
|Very true Steve! For those not near B&G, any company that has access to Testbook (the MGR diagnostics equipment) can perform the necessary work to reset the TPS offset. :o)|
|Colin, thanks very much :o)|
|Also, check out this thread:|
>> http://www.forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=514530#post514530 <<
For details on the calibration...
|Nooooo! This is terrible news... ! |
I need to get it tuned as well for the new TB!?
Where can I get this done near Marlow/High Wycombe/Reading area... anyone?
|Try B&G in Baldock. Not every TB necessarily needs it - if the car is driving fine at the moment, then perhaps it could wait until the next service (yes, even your dealership can set this up for you!)|
|anyone got a copy of the 'RAVE' cd people keep talking about. apparently it is worth having?|
You can get them from places like the MGOC and Brown and Gammons, but your best bet is to keep an eye on eBay, hookey copies come up on there all the time.
The RAVE disc contains the workshop and electrical manuals as well as addenda to the user handbook (for the Trophy 160 for instance) not just for the MGF, but for all the cars in the MGR portfolio.
My copy is a few years old now and doesn't cover the Zed cars or the TF, but it does have loads of other vehicles on it that probably wouldn't be on a current copy, like the original Mini and Rover 100 for instance...
This thread was discussed between 11/01/2005 and 14/01/2005
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