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MG MGF Technical - access code imoberliser
|Hi,all not been around for a while and not used my f for a month...now a problem.|
The battery was flat so i jump started it .
All was ok but the key fob stopped working after i,d used the car a few times.
I,d used the key fob to lock unlock etc and all was as it should be.
I went back to the f and the fob did not work to open the car.I changed the battery and it still does not work.
To get in the car i now use the key to lock and unlock the car.
The problem is that the engine is immobilsed and although i keep keying in the 4 digit access code ( via the drivers door) it won,t register to turn the immobiliser off so i can start the damm thing.
I,ve used the code before so i know its the right one but i either get the "beep" at the end of my attempt or no beep and the light is still on so the car will not start.
I understand that the code might have been out of sink with the battery being flat but the car did work locks etc for several small trips??
I,ve tried the press the unlock four times to re programme but thats dud as welll!!!!
Am i being thick or doing something wrong???
|m e johnson|
|Mel, I can't remember the vintage of your F? If one of the earlier cars, the immobiliser code you were supplied with is wrong - see archives for correcting this.|
Regarding re-synching your fob, keep pressing the door unlock button should do the trick.
The story of it working and then stopping working is a little odd... Try the simple things first though.
|I found that the timing is critical when using the EKA override - the first cycle in each sequence operates the locking mechanism, which means you have to pause for a couple of seconds to let it finish before entering the next keyturn.|
On a '96 car I had to add 1 to the 2nd and 4th number, then it worked fine.
It may be worth disconnecting the battery for half an hour, and then trying again - that'll reset the immobiliser circuit, which I suspect may only allow a number of attempts before denying access entirely.
I,ve tried the archieves and added on 1 to the second and forth digit but it still won,t work.
If the wrong code is entered the handbook says it needs a 10 minute rest after the third attemt to reset which i,ve also done.
It either beeps at the end of my attemp or just stays silent,i put the key in to start her up but it is still beeping and won,t start.
I,ve tried to re sych the immobilizer with the key fob(pressing to unlock) but still no joy!!!
Any other thoughts guys???
|m e johnson|
|Whenever I have replaced the battery in the key fob, I've had to get a dealer to resynchronise it. It's a but of a pain because the dealer is supposed to change the battery every year anyway, but I guess it's one of those jobs they "forget".|
|Hi, should have said mines a 1997 "R" reg mpi.|
I,ve searched the archives with some great info but to no avail .
I,ll try to fix it in the next few days and hope no one minds me going through it step by step to see if anyone has any suggestions.
|m e johnson|
|Should be very interesting to see what works and what doesn't Mel...|
|Hi,still can,t immobiliz the damm thing.|
Can any one confirm that i,m keying it in correctly.
if my no. is 4444(its not) i am doing the following....
Insert the key into the drivers door lock it and return the key to the 12 oclock position.
Turn the key to the unlock position 4 times (the first turn unlocks the car i count this as one turn),each time returning the key to the 12 oclock position .
Now from the 12 oclock position i turn to the right ; on the first turn the car now locks (i count this as one turn)i then repeat three more times each time finishing at the 12 oclock position.
From the 12 oclock position i now turn to the left (the car now unlocks and i count this as one turn)i now repeat three more times and finish off at the 12 oclock position
Now from the 12 oclock position i turn to the right;
on the first turn the car now locks (i count this as one turn)i then repeat three more times each time finishing at the 12 oclock position.
I have now keyed in 4444
Is this the right way?? The car either beeps (horn) to say its failed or nothing happens and it is still immobilized.
Any ideas and sorry to be a pain
|m e johnson|
|That's what I understand the immobiliser manual entry process to be Mel...|
|Can't see any flaws in your technique, Mel. I'm beginning to wonder if the EKA code has corrupted somehow, i.e. a malfunction of the alarm ECU. Testbook would probably be the only way to check that. Seems likely, judging by the erratic behaviour when operated remotely and now the refusal to accept the EKA.|
I'm presuming that a Lucas diagnostic centre would need the car, but it may be worth calling one to see if they can test ECUs off the car.
|Thanks for the input guys i,ll let you know how i get on , i,ll have a few more trys change the battery etc..but i think i,ll have to get it looked at properly.|
|m e johnson|
How about disconnecting the car battery completely for an hour so that the car ccts all discharge. Charge the battery so it is fully charged when you reconnect(c.12.7v depending on age and brand).Then reconnect it and start again. It sounds to me like bad data stuck in somewhere it shouldn't be. There is a chance that a fresh power up might initialise the port/bus whatever.
If it still won't play, unlock the doors and take the fob battery out, completely discharging the caps by holding both buttons in for five seconds. then put it back together and have another go at locking it to resynch the system. Sounds like you have nothing to lose. Good luck,
|Thanks Charles |
That sounds like a good plan!!
My battery does seem a little low on power so a good charge will do it good. I,ll try the above tommorrow.
I need to buy a new battery charger so i was wondering if i could use the new battery off my 1.8 diesel van (which is always fully charged)it is a more heavy duty type but will fit the f.
Do you think it would be ok to use it on the f just to eliminate the battery being at fault due to a low charge ?? I think yes
|m e johnson|
|I thinks likewise|
|Mel, you've just inspired me to investigate the failure of my remote, which gradually degenerated in terms of range until the only way it would work was held against the centre console. Then even that stopped, so EKA was used and I've lived with it ever since. Having bought another can of electrical contact spray today I thought I'd give it one last shot, so I removed the battery, pulled off the rubber buttons, and gave the whole circuit board a long soaking. Dried off the board, wiped the battery with the excess-soaked cloth, put it back together and headed back to the car. Stood next to it, pressed the button a few times on the offchance it was performing OK, i.e. re-synching, and lo and behold, the remote is now working from a range I'd never ever had. Sad how pleasing the sight of amber lights flashing can be ;o)|
Give it a go, you never know your luck. this is officially the 3rd 'fix' I've achieved on the F using only contact spray, so it's always worth having some handy...
Best of luck, I'll keep everything crossed. Wouldn't explain the EKA not working, but I suspect you'd not be too bothered about that ;o)
|Exhaustively tested, 45 foot range, almost to the inch :oD And that's not bouncing it off the back of my under-occupied skull either, that's shooting casually from the hip. |
Wouldn't mind betting that in many cases where a fresh battery seems to cure a keyfob issue, it's not the fact that it's a 100% charged battery that makes the difference, it's the fact that it's a fresh, unoxidised contact surface, allowing the proper current through without resistance.
|cheers Mike |
I,ll try anything !!
Whats the make of the electrical contact spray and where did you get it from ?
Thanks for your time trying to help i really appreciate it.
|m e johnson|
|Maplins or any other high street electronics store sell the stuff, although I get mine in big cans from a cheap toolshop. It's well worth a squirt ;o)|
45 feet sounds enviable but not as ridiculous as a friend with tintop convertible merc last year who consistently locked and unlocked from the opposite side of our cricket pitch!
Nevertheless I am reaching for the contact spray, thanks ;o)
|For Mike Hankin,Bristol,|
You mentioned application of contact spray to circuit board and pulling off rubber buttons. Sorry to be so dim but canyou tell me in Janet & John fashion where all this is located. Thanks. Mike.
Still no luck !!
I,ve tried all the above (used my van battery incase the f,s was dud) and the fob still won,t work and the f still won,t accept the EKAK .
I,ve got in touch with rover (one still open) and hopefully they will confirm i,m keying the right code in.
I also had a chat to the guy at the local garage who did the head gasket last year and he has given me a no. of a mobile alarm guy.
I was thinking of getting the code confirmed first and then ringing this alarm guy.
Do you think this is the best way forward or should i go to the main dealer (don,t know how i,d get it there.
What would you do???
|m e johnson|
|Call the AA. If you have relay, they'll transport you to your garage of choice. Your only problem will be if the car is currently parked on your drive - you'll need home start for that service...|
This thread was discussed between 25/03/2007 and 28/03/2007
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