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MG MGF Technical - B&G electric boot release

Has anyone out there had any experience fitting the B&G electic boot release? I have started and so far just about every step has caused problems.

1) Drilling tempate for motor seems to be about 10-20mm out for where the motor should be.

2) An additional spring seems to be needed to allow the boot mechanism to shut properly when both lock and motor cables are fitted.

3) Fitting the cable to the handbrake switch is ****ing hard as the only way I could get to the cable is by removing the switch (not as easy as it sounds).


steering wheelted the electric boot release earlier this year, i have dug my previous comments from that time out of the archives for you, hope they are some use.......


I fitted that Brown and Gammons electric boot release (manufactured by RDM) the other week and it went in reasonably ok...probably about 4 hours...still sounds a long time!

I thought that the whole kit was much better engineered and thought out than the equivalent kit from Moss and others. The instruction are easy to follow and much more comprehensive than the instructions with the Moss kit. However there are anomalies in the instructions and if you ever have a go at fitting one get in touch with me first. I have a few photos of the installation too.

The Moss kit uses a solenoid to pull the catch in the boot but the RDM kit uses a motor. I found this easy to fit (there is a drilling template in the instructions) and worked first time without further adjustment. The motor is very small and neat and doesn't foul luggage in the boot.

The electrical connections (to the handbrake, fuse board and hazard warning switch) are well described and relatively easy to make. The connection to the handbrake is fiddly but ok. To gain access to the hazard warning switch I suggest you carefully lever out the centre air vent using a screwdriver top and bottom, (thanks to Mike Satur for this tip). Take care with the orientation of the centre vent when refitting and it will push back in with no problem. The boot release switch only operates when the handbrake is on and the ignition switch is at position 2. (Not sure but i don't think the Moos kit includes a connection to the handbrake).

An attractive round alloy push switch is supplied with the kit to be mounted on the fascia, i guess it works fine. I decided to use a Rover fascia switch to activate the release which would fit in the spare switch blank I had. I used a MGF 'air recirculation' switch (looks like a circular arrow), one of the two you get with aircon fitted, cost approx

Thanks Paul,

As always, wish I had checked the Archives first, easy to say after you have done the work.

I think I agree almost exactly with your comments at the time. With the exception of the "rear of the fusebox". I think this is the back side, and the fuse supplied is meant to go in one of the spare slots on the right (as there is a single pole connection at the right point on the back). But I couln't make it work either. So resorted to the front tab and an additional in-line fuse holder.

The springs I had to play with and ended up adding a second one to help push shut the original boot lock mechanism.

I have now fitted it all, and am happy with it, but think if these are easy instructions I would fear the Moss version :-)

One other thing, while working on the passenger carpets to route the cable. I found they were all nice and wet. So off to the archives to check and fix this..... Maybee I will get the car on the road again.

Thanks again for the help.


Hi again Paul,

i also had the leak into the footwell

I took the carpets out and did the following

1, I think my actual leak was from the cover plate that goes over where the steering column goes through on the left hand drive cars. If you take this off you will see it has a foam seal but this has to seal over a lip in the metal at the bottom of the hole and i think this is where the break in the seal had formed. Water discharging from the heater box runs down the ouside of this plate. I sealed the foam seal with silicon.

2, I also did some work on the heater box just to be sure. The problem seem to be standing water which collects in the ident in the body work under the front bonnet to the right of the heater box when viewed from the front. This water then leaks though any breaks in the heater box seal and then comes either straight down into the car or goes down the curved air collector pipe into the heater box area and leaks out there, in both cases the water ends up in the passenger footwell. At first i thought this collected water had come through the bonnet seal or directly through the grille in trim section below the windscreen. However it appears this water actually comes from the two side drain holes in the heater box.

Most of the water that runs into the heater box off the windscreen discharges through the large hole in the bottom of the heater box, (and runs down past the blanking panel discribed above), or from the additional holes on the left-hand-side of the heater box (harmless, just runs away), however a percentage also runs out through the two side holes on the righthand side and collects on the bodywork ready to leak past any faulty seal into the car. I stopped up the two holes on this side of the heater box (difficult with gromets i had to use sticky pads and tape), this cut down the water collecting in this area to zero (with mod 3 as well below), even after the car had been washed. As belt and braces i also put silicon around that part of the heater box seal too.

3. I also noticed that there was a foam seal under the grille above the heater box. As water discharged though the grille into the heater box a percentage fell between the foam seal and the heater box lip (best understood by viewing...*smile*), this water then flowed sideways and discharged once again onto the body work under the bonet alongside the heater box (to leak though into the car). I built up silicon between the foam seal and the heater box lip so that any water now gets channeled in to the heater box where it now flows away harmlessly.

Anyway, the leak has not reoccurred, which is main thing...*grin*.

Thanks Again Paul,

When I get another weekend, I will take the front apart and give it a look. I have just taken the car for a run (to check out the K&N which I also just fitted). I came back with a very big grin, so it may be a hassle of a car, but worth it.



This thread was discussed between 14/12/2000 and 17/12/2000

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