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MG MGF Technical - Brake Pipe Corroded
My poor MGF failed its MOT on rusted brake pipes from the T-Connector to the left and right rear wheels.
Problem is the garage are saying they may have to drop the engine as cannot see how they are routed or how to fit them.
Before the Newbury MG dealership closed down, I was led to believe there is a connection at the top of the engine bay that can be undone and the pipe removed that way so i see no need to drop the engine. It was a fiddly job but not rocket science.
So it should be about 6 hours labour plus parts.
Anyone either replaced these or have any suggestions, i have looked in the BBS archive but nothing on the subject, is it uncommon for these too rust?
|I've heard of these rusting in the past JD - there should be a couple of threads on this topic in the archives. However, I don't know of anyone who has DIY'd a replacement.|
Access is not especially great, so perhaps an engine out approach would be best? Unfortunately, the workshop manual isn't particularly forthcoming: the brakes section appears to have nothing regarding the rear brake pipes and the maintenance section has nothing more helpful other than recommending inspection.
Sorry, not much help there.
Just suffered this problem myself and was also quoted 6 hours by the local rover dealer -- dont go there -- did the job myself within 4 hours..
first of all spray the area with plus gas to loosen the rust,remove the engine cover, air filter, and move the large black box connected to the air filter to the side, this will give you enough room to see the T joint. Forget about using a spanner to undo the unions as they just wont budge and all you will do is round off the edges. Cut the pipe as close to the union as you can and tap a socket over the union -- you will then be able to undo the joint. Undo the union at the flexible hose at the brake disc end and just under the body work by the shock absorber you will find a pipe clip -- a bit of waggeling will release it.
Fitting is simply a reversal of the above and no need to remove the engine,
|That's useful to know - and a good tip. So you cut the pipes to the T-piece and then clamped it in a vice and undid the unions with a socket? Cunning.|
|Don't use a spanner - use a pipe spanner. Available at your local halfords. |
Also unions can be held close to the original positions (not requiring cutting of pipes) by using a bloody big shifting wrench.
This thread was discussed between 28/08/2005 and 30/08/2005
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