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MG MGF Technical - Brakes, pads, discs and so on
Just had my 52 plate tf160 serviced. They tell me the front discs and pads will need replacing in about 2000 miles time, and will cost over £800!
Does that sound ok? Should the discs and pads really need replacing after only 2 years? pads, yes ok, but discs as well???????
Otherwise, anyone know anyone in the East Manchester area (Ashton Under Lyne way) that can do this cheaper?
I have a TF160 on a 02 plate.
At 25,000 miles I had to have the front discs and pads replaced as well as the rear pads.
I cant mind off hand what MG were quoting but I posted it on this board.
I managed to get the parts and got someone to fit them on the side.
If I remember correctly for the front Discs and pads I was almost £420. I think the rear pads were £50 and it cost me a slab of beer for the labour.
All in all saving me a few hundred bucks.
Hope this helps
|You don't have to pay main dealer rates for replacement genuine parts. B&G, MGFC etc all sell discs and pads at much 'nicer' prices than your MGR dealer will sell them for.|
As to the question as to whether after two years discs need replacing - two ways of answering that:
1. if they're worn beyond tolerance, then yes
2. rates of wear vary tremendously depending on the type of useage they get - so two years for you could be much shorter or much longer than others... it's a 'how long's a piece of string' argument.
|In total MG this month, one of the suppliers is selling EBC discs for a Trophy 160 for £99.99 a pair. I believe that they are the same as a TF 160? The price seems cheap to me, If only I had some Trophy calipers.....|
|mg specialist've have the "Your discs and pads will need replacing in 3000 miles, shall I do it now?" remark before too. |
Not saying its dodgy.., but worth checking.
Next up. Arriva Rover wanted
|If I was you, Ian, I'd source the parts and do it myself. It's nowhere near as hard is you'd think - if an automotive idiot like myself can pull it off, you can! Budget the best part of an afternoon, though. Good instructions on Rob's site.|
It's also a good excuse to uprate your brakes, as much better aftermarket discs and pads often come in cheaper than MGR standard kit. Try EBC, Mike Satur, Mintex, etc...
|My T reg VVC has just had it's 5yr service ( at 28K) and I was told that my front pads and discs needed immediate replacement. This I believe as my MOT earlier in the year had said that the pads would need replacing soon. They couldn't do it on the day as they did not have the parts in, but they quoted £200 for supply and fit, and that's an MG Rover dealer.|
I'd rather do it myself, so can anyone redirect to me a sight that tells/shows you how to replace the pads at least?
|Tillman, I replied to your other post.|
I got disks and pads from a motor factor not an MGR dealer. It was a year ago but I'm sure it was less than £100 including copperslip, whire grease and hide mallet.
|Tillman, pad and disc options are available here, along with links to DIY pad and disc replacement :o) - http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/brakes/index.htm|
|Rob doesn't mention a 'puller' on the site, this is a tool I found essential, it has two or three 'legs' which hook around the disk, and a central bolt wich pushes on the hub, all you have to do is stop the hub turning and wind up the pressure on the bolt. I had a two legged version - but you really want a three legger.|
My discs were firmly rusted in place, so I needed to apply pressure with the puller and then hammer.
|Not ever seen one of those employed Will. I've seen hub pullers before - and this sounds similar?|
Sounds as though it makes the job a lot easier. Where did this tool come from, and how much?
|Yep it is a 'hub puller', should make the job easier (possible in my case)|
Halfords sell the version I used, but the two legged version is a lot harder to use than a three legged example. Any good toolshop will sell tham as well as "machine mart" type places.
For buying: A finer thread means less elbow work when in use, but much more twiddleing to get to a point where you can use it!
|Okay - that makes sense Will :o) |
Would this work on a larger 304mm AP racing disc I wonder? Not a problem for me, as like you, my F has 240mm discs...
|There is an alternative cheaper tool which looks like a piece of heavy gauge channel iron with a slot at each end and a screw through the middle. |
You just screw the channel onto the brake disc using the wheel nuts back to front then wind down the centre screw.
|Cheaper and erm wrong, the wheel nuts are attached to the hub, so this tool pulls the hub against the hub and will do nothing but break the wheel studs :-(|
This thread was discussed between 04/11/2004 and 05/11/2004
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