MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGF Technical - Can anyone help

Hi can anyone recommend where I can obtain cheap pads and discs for my p reg mgf? also how I can fit the pads by myself, do I need to bleed the breaks?

cheers
tim

Front or Rear?

My front disks & pads from local motor factor with spray can of cleaner less than 75 incl vat. 30 mins each side to change (assuming the set screws for the disks come out). No bleeding needed.
John Ponting

www.spareshq.com
Gaz R

the brakes should not need bleeding, but be careful as you will have to push the calipers back in and this may lead to your brake fluid resevoir overflowing. (brake fluid is evil and damages paintwork etc - take care not to have this happen!)
Will Munns

Tim, fitting brake parts really is a POP and the F is little different to most other cars. Have you fitted brakes to other cars before? If not, try to get somebody to oversee you the first time - remember, it is not just your life at risk!

Do you have a workshop manual? Available from you friendly dealer or Brown & Gammon or MGOC. BG and MGOC also advertise a CD version.
John Ponting

Tim,

Changing the pads is not dificult, so long as you have the manual! On the brake fluid reservior, I agree with Will that you need to avoid getting this on the paint! However if you remove the cap, then as you push the front brake cylinders in, you can watch the fluid rise and stop pushing when the fluid is near the top! You should then have enough space to insert the new pads on one wheel and bolt back onto the disc. You can then pump the brake pedal to sqeeze the new brakes onto the disk and drop the fuild the the reservior.

You can then move to the other front disc and repeat the process.

On the rear disks you will need a friend to tell you how the fluid level is rising or just rush backwards and forwards yourself.

The rear brake pads wind in!

Changing the disks should be easier - however the problem is releasing the screw that holds the discs in place. This is usually rusted in and a complete bugger to remove. I have not had to do this yet but suspect I will pay the garage!

CHeers

Patrick
Patrick Beet

This has been mentioned above, but it is important so i will repeat it:

Front pistons push in.

Rear pistons screw in.

Otherwise you'll be there for ages trying to force the rear ones in! :-)

OK, regarding discs, there are pictures on the SOS site that may help you out, try these:

Retaining screws for the discs
>> http://www.sfforever.co.uk/viewgallerypicture.asp?id=11-18-240-241-242-243-244-245-246-249-247-248-250-251-252-253-254-255-256-257&queryon=22 <<

Copper Slip (grease)
>> http://www.sfforever.co.uk/viewgallerypicture.asp?id=18-30-325-326-327-328-329-330-331-332-333-334-335-336-337-338-339-340-341-342-343-344-345-346-347-348-349-350-351-352-353-354&queryon=27 <<

Caliper Bolts (note my calipers are a bit different (FX 4 Pots), but the mounting points are the same)
>> http://www.sfforever.co.uk/viewgallerypicture.asp?id=20-30-325-326-327-328-329-330-331-332-333-334-335-336-337-338-339-340-341-342-343-344-345-346-347-348-349-350-351-352-353-354&queryon=27 <<

Hopefully these will explain things a little clearer.

Good Luck

SF
Scarlet Fever

This thread was discussed between 25/08/2003 and 27/08/2003

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.