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MG MGF Technical - Cannot remove wheels

Today, i changed my front brake pad for 'green stuff' pads, easy peasy. However, when i came to change my rear pads, i removed the wheel nuts but i was unable to get the wheels off, they were stuck to the hubs. After alot of hitting and bashing, i gave up, any ideas??


You could try applying some WD40 and then using a soft
mallet used carefully.
This is a common fault on Mgf's and when you replace
the roadwheels its a good idea to apply a light
smearing of Copperease to the mating face where the
Wheel 'meets' the hub.
This stops corrosion between the hub and Alloy wheel.

With the car NOT on the jack, loosen all the wheel nuts a full turn and a half. Then gripping the tyre towards the top at about the "10 to 2" position, firmly ( or more vigorously ) push and pull the wheel as if checking for wheel bearing wear. This should break the grip usually caused by road dirt and corrosion. When you detect a slight movement, similar to wheel bearing wear, then jack up the car and remove the wheel.

If this method does not work, then a heavy club hammer with a stout piece of wood as a buffer will probably do the trick.
John McFeely

In a similar manner to John's suggestion, but requiring less effort on your part, loosen the wheel nuts a half turn and then go for a short drive around some corners. Put some copper grease on the mating surface once you've got the wheel off!


Whilst the alloy wheels do indeed 'weld' themselves to the hubs I would not advocate driving on loosened wheel nuts - you might just be surprised how quickly they can 'spin' completely undone and for your wheel(s) to then overtake your car. By all means rock the car backwards and forwards using the engine/clutch or a couple of short spurts of a few yards.

Ted Newman

I have found another way to remove stuck wheels without any bashing about.

If you prise out the centre disc from the wheel with the aid of a fine blade, then the wheel can be levered off using a suitable lever on the inside of the aperture, levering against the centre of the drive shaft nut.

I have a narrow tyre lever about 30 cm long, with a shaped tip bent at approx 45 deg. which is ideal for the job.

Some care is required to ensure the leverage is applied evenly round the lip of the aperture in the wheel, and don't use too much force or you may damage the alloy.

I was surprised how easily the wheel came off. Especially as I had spent at least 30 minutes belting the S..t out of it to no effect!

Needless to say, my wheels are now "copperslipped" to avoid the problem.

Andrew Dear

This thread was discussed between 02/07/2000 and 04/07/2000

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