Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.



MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGF Technical - Cornering engine problems


I sometimes have problems when cornering and pushing the thottle ( bad idea I know but besides that ). The problem also occurs on straigth road when accellerating.

The engine seems to totally lose power when it hits 1800 rpm.

At first I thought it was due to fuel problems but the problems persist, even with a full tank.

It doesn't occur frequently, but I'd like to know what's going on.

Thanks for any advice,
D Fleurbaaij

... with engine cold, or well warmed up ?
How much is the oil temp reading ?
Dieter K.

Warmed up, oil is between 100 and 120 or something like that.

D Fleurbaaij

VVC or MPi ?
What year is the car ?
What happened at the last service ? - just an oil change or did plugs etc get changed ?

Total loss of power is most likely to be ignition (coil(s), leads, plugs) more than fuelling (IMO).

>>when cornering and pushing the thottle ( bad idea I know but besides that ). <<
.. not a bad idea at all :-)

2000 (MY2000) 1.8 Mpi has 62k km and a suspected and fixed HGF at 45k ( bought it a 56k )

Last service.. eeeeerhm no idea actually. But coils and stuff don't usually go awry when you corner :P

"weird stuff"
D Fleurbaaij

Might be a problem with an HT lead shorting on something metal as they move under cornering forces Dennis???

Might be worth replacing the leads in any case - and the distributor head and rotor (they are all cheap consumables anyway)
Rob Bell

You also said that it happens on the straights ?
Is it just more apparent in corners ?
You could check your earth leads - especially around the engine bay, and the main battery earth.

Yikes !

My MGF is dying on me.

Whenever I pull up ( no matter how soft or hard ) at 2000 rpm the engine starts to stutter and nearly quits.

This happend all the way during the drive, altough the hotter the engine got the worse the problem became.

The car is now totally undriveable. Any ideas on where and what to check first ?
D Fleurbaaij

Okay, dismanteled the car this morning.The spark plugs seem fine, the same goes for the ignition leads.

And then we opened the rotorcap. The first thing that stuck was the KLOENK noise when we opened it, followed by a plingk of falling metal.

The carbon piece that connects the main feed to the rotor was broken in half and fell out. There is metal-dust everywhere and the rotor seems badly damaged.

It looks like this caused the problems but I'm not sure how and why. Tomorrow I'll go for a new cap and rotor and we'll see then.

D Fleurbaaij

Sounds as though you've found the culprit Dennis! Hopefully you'll back on the road very soon :o)
Rob Bell

Got the original parts. Upon inspection the center of the rotor was totally destroyed. Further inspection of the dust found inside the rotor reveiled that it consists of the spring and the center part of the rotor.

It's a miracle that the car made it home.
D Fleurbaaij

When were the other ignition parts replaced Dennis? If the distributer was in such poor condition, what chance is there for the leads and spark plugs being in a similarly deteriorated state?
Rob Bell


Spark plugs seem fine, threads too. I've checked them over just to be sure.
D Fleurbaaij

This thread was discussed between 07/01/2004 and 12/01/2004

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.