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MG MGF Technical - Cracked Sump
|Driving behind girlfriends 1.8i last night and saw couple puffs of smoke from around exhaust - when she stopped i saw drips on the floor which looked like coming from sump plug|
I thought ah when changed oil few hundred miles ago must have not tightened sump plug properly (as had only nipped up as to not crack the sump) but plug was tight
started engine (not dripped while off) and it appears to be coming from crack above sump plug (couple inches above)
must have started while i was behind her as the amount coming out would have drained oil pretty quick and we'd done prob 75 miles that morning in car
could tightening sump plug couple of weeks ago have cracked sump (crack doesnt seem to run directly from the thread) or could this have been damaged by debris etc and can this be welded??
whats sump like to drop off car if need to change? its not engine out job or anything is it??
Thanks for help!
|I just been looking at picture of sump and I'm beginning to think what looked like a crack in half light may only be a line in the casting...|
I actually think i may have been a bit thick and not put the sump plug washer back in.... will check tonight and fingers crossed that is it!!
Does that sound reasonable - maybe cos only had short runs since oil change the oil has not got thin enough to leak??
Anyway i'll whip it out later and try not to lose too much expensive brand new magnatec while i check!!
|in answer to your original question:|
Yes the sump can be removed in situ, but requires removal of some of the exhaust IIRC. (have done it to replace oil rail, head was off at the time, so there was some movement in the exhaust)
Yes a crack in Alu can be welded or soldered (lumiweld), or patched in situ using JB-weld (glue).
And yes, if you forget the copper washer it will leak ;-)
I had a horrendous oil leak after not tightening the oil filter correctly, don't feel too bad!
|Ha ha well i'd rather feel a bit stupid and just have to add washer than have a busted sump! would rather it was my car i wouldnt feel so bad depriving her of her pride and joy while its sunny! |
ps re your replies to my previous post re ticking while hot or cold - the oil change didnt immediately stop the ticking but seems to have mainly stopped over the week after so thanks for help with that!
|and it may leak using the old copper washer if it has hardened. Best practice is to always fit a new one.|
Yes you can weld aluminium but not by the guy at the exhaust shop. It would need a specialist weld shop whereby a new sump might come cheaper.
|You can re-use the copper washer by heating it to a cherry red and plunging it into cold water.|
|>It would need a specialist weld shop whereby a new sump might come cheaper.|
You need to shop around more!
Lumniweld sticks will do the job with a blowlamp at home, or a professional will do the job for £20 (not worth doing any welding job for less than £20).
Alu welding is done by radiator guys. In cambridge Anglia radiators refurbed my radiator (clean, add some studs, solder up some pinholes, test, paint) and made me up some custom pipework out of alu for £60 in total. A cracked sump is much simpler and cheaper
|This turned out to not be a cracked sump but appreciate the suggestions!|
Took car back to garage to have a look and they gave a vague reason for it leaking from the oil filler pipe but didnt charge me for any work done but has been fine since.... i'm still looking underneath each time i've been in it but she has done 4-500 miles since with no oil on the floor (where it was gushing out)
i think they must have left something loose and were too embarrassed to admit it... either way its going to be a while before i completely trust it!!
This thread was discussed between 30/04/2007 and 24/05/2007
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