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MG MGF Technical - Disconnected hose - fix or leave?

I've just noticed a loose hose on my F. If you take off the engine bay grille from the boot and look to the left just below the air filter housing there is a large diameter hose with a jubilee clip which runs across the engine bay and ends roughly in the centre (about in line with the throttle body). I'm guessing that this is the air inlet for the air filter - on mine the hose has come off and is disconnected at both ends. It looks virtually impossible to get at to put back on unless my hands shrink significantly - does this matter or can I leave it as is? There's a photo at under "Cars/Disconnected Hose" which might make a bit more sense!

Tim Jenner

Tim, you are quite right - that is the original air intake hose for the airfilter.

Worth reconnecting? Yes, although perhaps in a different way. If you read Roger Parker's posting on the 'TF160 great induction mod' thread started by Per, you'll see that Rog re-used that pipe to connect the airbox to the nearside airvent (bypassing the resonance box) - and saw significant increase in power and torque.

An easy and very worth while mod!

Doing this is easy: remove the inspection cover, and take out the airbox.

Pull off the plastic elbow to the resonance box, and take your disconnected induction hose, and thread it into the nearside airvent. Now reconnect to the base of the airfilter, and reassemble the airbox to its bracket, and put everything back together.

Job done! ;o)

Well, other than purchasing a K&N panel filter or similar aftermarket item ;o)
Rob Bell


This had come off on mine, when I put the cone filter on (and took the air box out) I reconnected it, allthough I was under the inmpresion it was the "waste air" out pipe (what ever that is) as if you follow it, it doesnt seem to go anywhere.
J Price

Hose in question is (was) the original air intake to the air filter assembly.

It draws air into the resonance box from the middle of the boot compartment wall which is one of the coolest points within the engine bay. The pipe then turns through 90 degrees and enters the resonance box at the MEMS end. Air flows through the resonance box and out the other end near the petrol tank where it then goes through a further three 90 degree tunrs, up into the bottom of the air filter box. Air is drawn through the filter medium and out through the top of the air filter box intot he throttle body.

This was the original set up, it has subsequently been revised for the TF (does the TF 115 use the old arrangement?)

Scarlet Fever

Thanks, everyone, it's not exactly easy to see what's going there! If I relocate the inlet to bypass the resonance box, will the reduced inlet area over the side vent affect engine cooling at all? And how is the pipe fixed into position at the vent?

Thanks again,
Tim Jenner

It shouldn't affect engine cooling, much if anything. The side vents are not very effective when the car is in motion, indeed the only time they play a real part in engine bay temperatures is when the car is stationary and the driver's side one is used to draw in air by the engine bay fan. The passenger side one is mostly blocked off by the petrol tank, although there is a route through here for a pipe of less than 100mm diameter. You can cable tie the end round the subrame to secure it in this position.

If you have an enclosed system, (standard set up / ITG Maxogen / Piper Viper etc) then this lack of air flow is actually a benefit as the system will draw air in at the optimum rate. If you have a system that relies on a ram air effect (like the K+N 57i), then routing the intake pipes here will be less effective.



P.S. By the way, the reason the original intake pipe is situated in the middle of the boot compartment wall is this is where the majority of air flow through the engine bay occurs. Air is drawn up from underneath the car, past the air intake pipe and then out throught he boot lid vents.
Scarlet Fever

Tim, as Andy says, no real problem with cooling: I've got my air intake located in the near side vent as well...

As for keep it in position, then I suspect that it'll just rest in place - again this is what I've done, and if you look at the thread that Per started ('Great induction mods for the TF 160'), you'll see that ties are not really needed :o)
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed on 12/06/2003

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