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MG MGF Technical - Electric Mirror Conversion

Has anyone converted their standard manual mirrors to electric.

If so please could you tell me if the wiring is already in place or will I need to purchase a different loom.

I currently have the manually adjusted electrically heated mirrors but I have purchased electrically adjustable versions and I need to know apart from the switch if I need to purchase anything else to get them to work.

Chris Catchpole

Think you'll also need a new instrument cowl, to allow the switch to be mounted? Maybe others can confirm, don't know about the wiring.
g hampson

Notice for easy swap that RH and LH are assembled together in a different way to provide different angles to the drivers sight.

This means on the other hand that you could change an electric mirror from RH to LH and reverse. (Small cambered ring gives different mounting angles to the mirror cheater).

Gareth is right with the cowl and switch. And no wiring is there. Needs to get sourced also. I think it is included in the main harness, but I'm not sure.

btw, if you find two of the harness parts then let me know. I'm in the same needs, but will use another switch if I find the time.


Am going through this at the moment!

Bought my mirrors on ebay, both work,
Bought switch on ebay too, works ok,
Instrument cowl, from Rover dealer, fine.......(Part No RFAP100980PMA (Black)).


Getting severely p****d off with comments like, " Well if you'd bought our kit, we would have supplied the loom !" I know that, but I would have been severely out of pocket. Out of desperation I'm going to make my own.

Bought all the stuff I need from Vehicle Wiring Products a mail order company, all I need is the time to do it.......
Jay Smith


Said so ;)
The same with me due to making an own.... errrm, since two years ??

You do not need to change the instrument cowl, at least if you have a pre-2000, F because the alternative mounting place is in the front of the armrest on the driver's door.

The mirrors come from the old Rover 200 and they have shorter heater wires and a different plug on the end so it all had to be cut off nad replaced.

I didn't mount the switch on the instrument cowl because the contour of switch doesn't match the surface of the cowl so the finish would look a bit "home-made".

The only problem I found was that the earth and supply wires for the mirrors was too small so I ran extras from the fuse box under the steering wheel then replaced the 10A fuse with 15A.

A continuing minor niggle is the lack of a connector block for the back of the switch so matching up the wires after taking off the door card needs a bit of care.


I've also been through this.
Got the mirrors and switch from a TF in a breakers. Looked at mounting the switch for a week, then went back to the breakers and got the cowl.
No chance of getting the connectors though, and the wiring is buried in the main loom.
I have easy access to connectors and wire so I made my own loom. I soldered short wires on to the back of the switch and used my own connector there. I also re-used the old heater connectors then used an additional four way connector for the movement.
Took power from the electric window lift right behind the Fuse/MCU thingy. I didn't change the fuse as I'm not dexterous enough to wind both windows AND both mirrors.

John B

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2006 and 27/02/2006

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