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MG MGF Technical - fan belt - cam belt
I've left the Haynes at work . My fan belt is shredded and needs replacing . I thought I might do the cam belt at the same time.
I thought it would be simple,like an MGB or midget.
I've got the tin cover off from over the engine.
What next . Help !!
Not a simple job as you will need special cam locking tools.
The VVC has 2 belts. The engine mount will also have to be removed to change the belt(s).
Unless you are a very competent technician, get a good knowledgable garage to replace the cam belt(s).
5 years or 60000 miles which ever is the first.
The fan belt is east to fit.
Jack up the drivers side rear and remove the wheel. Remove the soft felt type cover straight ahead of you and this will give access to the shredded alternator
There are many more people using this board who have greater experience than me, but I hope this is a good start point for you.
|Hi Tony Thanks|
I guessed the rear wheel had to come off, Now I've even a bigger problem.
The locking wheel nut must have been tightened by a gorilla with an impact air wrench set at Max. plus a six foot length of scaffold tube as a torque wrench.
The unlocking tool supplied with the car has now lost it's two tangs that are meant to locate in the locking wheel nut.the two slots in the nut have started to deform but the nut hasn't budged. HELP
Also the third wheel nut seems to have a stainless steel shroud over the nut proper (so did the other two but they have come undone ok)the shroud appears to move but the nuts not coming undone HELOP !
I don't think I'll tackle the cam belt (42,000 miles- non VVC)
It's my wifes car. The weather looks good for the weekend and I'm stuck under the car port with this. HELP !
|MG will sell you a new lock wheel nut tool, but you need the number stamped on the old one or the nut itself.|
the stainless cover is desigened to stay on the normal nuts, if it has come free then you need a smaller socket and some new nuts.
Everywhere's closed till Tuesday, I've got the number off the tool.
But It's holiday weekend, we've just removed the hard top and put it to bed for the summer. There is no fan belt the old one has shredded _ I must fit a new fan belt even if I don't get the wheel nuts off at this time.
|Will just re-read your answer -1600 midget?|
Not a K series conversion is it ? I should be working on my 72 midget but wifeys 'F' must come first.
Can I angle grind the stainless cover fo the nut or just use brute force? Then use a smaller socket. The MGF supplied wheel wrench is neither use nor ornament.
|An old problem - damaged stainless capped wheel nuts and locking wheel nuts on our MGs.|
Whenever I need some 'professional' to work on my car's wheels, I always insist that I undo the wheel nuts and lockers myself first. Kwik-Fit and other Service type outlets often use over powerful tools plus well worn sockets to undo or tighten wheel nuts. These damage the nuts and as you then discover, the wheel brace supplied with the car only makes matters worse.
You'll probably find that most of the nuts on your car have been damaged in this way. I did when this first happened to me some years ago and I needed 12 new nuts and four lockers.
Since then, I always carry a breaker bar (about 10 quid from machine mart) and a good quality 19mm or 3/4" hex-socket. Hex being the important bit here - SIX sided not the 12 sided bi-hex.
Never had any trouble since.
Worth visiting your local breaker yards to find some good condition used MG wheel nuts. Those fitted to some Rovers and X-spoke alloy MG Montegos, Maestros (now a rarer sight in yards) plus some Fords are perfect for our cars. I have often picked up good ones from the floor in breakers yards. Check that they've not been damaged in the same way as yours ... this damage is widespread!
News ones from MG-R are around 4 quid each ... Ouch!
|Remove the nuts at least once a year, clean nuts. studs|
and wheel conicals. apply a little copaslip and retorque. This should be done during your Dealers Service however I slack off and retorque myself afterwards.
We carry a Draper telescopic bar and 1/2 in drive socket in the car however use an 18 in 'T' bar at home.
Halfrauds sell a 'Locking Nut Removal Tool'from their Service Desk. I have not seen or used one but it may be worth looking at. Careful drilling down the thread is another alternative however a cold chisel and 2lb lump hammer is effective but not recommended for the DIYer.
I had a garage break a stud on our Frogeye many years ago. It had a typical tensile necking fracture. We took off the wheel to remove the remains however a steel rule showed another stud to be necked. After a little discussion, they went to the dealer for 16 studs and fitted them. 3 more on 1 wheel were on their way to failing. I you plan a visit to a tyre Shop, then take your Torque Wrench.
P.S 70 Nm or 50 lb.ft
And I think that brute force is your only option for the normal nuts, being two piece you cannot even apply heat.
I wouldn't want to try to remove the locking nuts without the right tool, you'll just end up having to buy a whole new set. How much is a taxi?
You need a visit to Edwards in Stratford. They will sort you out. Would not suggest that you use MGR's Coventry outlet.
You may have to buy a Full Kit as it is unlikely that they will sell only your one correct nut and/or driver.
|Or replace the whole lot with superior after market locking nuts. Available from Halfords, Mike Satur, online accessory shops, highstreet shops etc.|
Edwards have the unlock tool on its own for £4
the full set of nuts and tool is £37
Blooming Friday afternoon apprentice design methinks ! !
I still have to remove one ordinary nut and the remains of the locking nut . Will try again to-night.
any more suggestions ?
copperslip on all the nuts from now - as long as I can get the others off - the car's been neglected in this area for a few years !
|I am not sure if we are talking to 'Alan in Warwick' os 'Steve in Southampton'|
Did you ask Edwards if they will take the nuts off for you ??
|Hi Geoff, yes Alan from Warwick - I don't know how I got to be Steve with a 71 midget in Southamton!|
The 'F'is not roadworthy at the moment due to lack of fan belt. (the start of this saga!)
Edwards of Stratford is far more helpful than Cov rover dealer I agree, Have used Edwards several times before. A good Co.
I still have to find a way of removing the wheel before I can get it back on the road and in order to fit the fan belt.
('F' is wifes - Frogeye and 72 midget under restoration are mine !!)
Were you successful in getting your nuts off ???
Has anybody tried the Machine-Mart Bolt Grip Set (Item 040214678) ?? They appear to be Female EasyOuts.
I had trouble with getting several of these nuts off my wheel as well.
Yes, the nuts are of a 2 piece construction. The outer part is of thin crome which acts as a cap/cover for the inner nut.
What can sometimes happen when you try to get these off using normal means, is that the outer cap spins around the nut and does not enguage enough to screw off. This rounds the cap in the process.
What I did was to get a slightly smaller hex socket (try metric and/or AF) and hammer it on to the cap as far as it will go. This should flatten the cap somewhat. Use grease to aid slip. This should form a tight fit. Then use a 1/2 drive breaker bar to slowly undo it.
As soon as it moves a little, spray in some wd40 and leave for some time for it to work in. Then continue.
You will have loose nuts in no time.!
| I bought a new unlock wheelnut tool . That twisted off as well, not a very robust design is it?|
I then drilled two holes thro' the nut and was about to start chiselling when my mate turned up with some female easyouts. Hammered one on and the used a 24" breaker bar. That removed the lock nut . I used a slightly smaller HEXAGON socket to reform the stainless shroud on the ordinary wheel nut and that's off now also.
The wheel nuts on the the front seem to have copperslip on them , but of course I don't have a wheel unlocking tool again now !!
I think its use the easy out tool and a new set of locking nuts.
My wifes 'F' is costing me money !!!!!
Still frutrarted 'cos Either the fanbelt is the wrong length (apparantly there was a changeover that year. OR I've threaded round the pullies the wrong way.
This thread was discussed between 26/03/2005 and 03/04/2005
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