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MG MGF Technical - Fitting new Brake Discs

I have the EBC grooved discs and pads to fit. Is the fitting of the discs as easy as it sounds, is there anything to watch out for? The manual for a Rover 200 (which looks like the say front brakes), says you take off the calipers and 2 screws hold the discs on. Then fit the new ones. The only tricky bit seems to be ensuring that the discs are not on a wobble (the run out).



The old discs may need a good belting to remove them. Also you need to wind in the rear caliper pistons to fit the new pads - there is a tool for this but it's possible to manage without it IIRC.

Remember and belt the discs on alternate sides as it's a tight fit on and belting one side only will get you nowhere.
ie. Thump, half turn, thump, half turn, etc.
Made a fool of myself when I forgot that! Doh!
Paul Nothard

When you have removed the old discs, make shure you clean the face befor the new discs are fited. Not doing this will cause uneven wear. Good luck. Paul...

How did the job go Richard?

I started last night and got part way.

The callipers came off easily. I was dreading the two Philips head screws that attach the discs and knew I would only get one chance. I stopped the disc rotating and used an electric screwdriver with a new No. 3 Posidriv bit. All four screws came straight out after a bit of resistance.

Now I am stopped at the discs which refuse to move to the ministrations of a nylon faced mallet. I left them overnight with release oil soaking into the hub and studs. Apart from the Navy system of "if it won't shift, get a bigger drift", has anyone any advice here?

If all else fails ... perhaps a little gentle heat on the disk carrier to help it expand.

Sorry - meant to continue ... possibly with the hot air paint stripper that only got used once (I'm sure we all have them!)


I am doing it in two weekends time, so I have not started yet. I will let you know how I get on.


Well the discs are off. Even after soaking overnight in release oil, a nylon faced hammer had no effect. A 1lb builders lump hammer moved the OS disc fairly quickly but it took double handed Wimbledon type blows to get the NS disc moving. Once moved a bit it came off easily.

While I wait for the new discs, I am taking the chance to wire brush and put a couple of coats of black Hammerite on the subframe which was begining to rust around the welds.


It took the guys at B&G an hour and a half to get all four discs off my car: I think this is a usual problem.

A couple of us here who've fitted the grooved discs and green stuff pads have had a strange 'flickering' noise afterwards - I can only think it's the edge of the pads catching on the grooves, there don't seem to be any other problems at all, and the stopping is as good as you'd hope. 4000 miles in the noise still hasn't gone though ...

Ed Clarke

Ed, I have 2 year old grooved EBC discs on my VVC and they still make that strange whirring sound!New greenstuff pads 10,000 miles back has not made any difference.Needed a metal bar and 4lb lump hammer,plus heat to get the bugg*r's off.

I got my new (ungrooved) discs on Friday from and will fit them this weekend. I'm not so sure about grooved discs for road use apart from a cosmetic effect.. The originals are ventilated and although the grooves may increase cooling a bit the effect must be marginal. The surface area is slightly reduced so ther can be no increase in braking torque and even EBC admit they make take 1000 miles to bed in and that they increase pad wear.

MGF Brake up-grade: There's a four page illustrated article in the current (August) issue of CAR MECHANICS dealing with this very topic. Very useful, particularly for anyone doing this kind of upgrade for the first time. This item is No. 3 in their series "MGF Project". Previous issues in this series covered engine mods and other items. For anyone interested in fettling their car (any car), this magazine is always a good read.

John McFeely

Done it!

Got the discs and pads on this afternoon. A quick drive round the block confirms everything is OK. The first few brake applications suggested that there were no brakes at all but a few stops and starts settled in the new pads OK.

Top tips for what they're worth

Make sure the car is firmly supported before removing the wheels, you may need to get violent later and do not want it rocking off a jack

Get set up to remove the Posidriv head retaining screws. I locked the disc with a G clamp and got a new No.3 Posidrive bit.

Be prepared to use brute force and ignorance to remove the old discs

Clean everything properly before reassembly using emery cloth and a wire brush

Reassemble with a smear of copper grease on the studs and threads. It will make next time a lot easier.

Take your time


This thread was discussed between 26/07/2002 and 03/08/2002

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