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MG MGF Technical - Fitting new wheels, having a nightmare - help!!
I recieved my shiny new mgtf Trophy wheels today, and have had an absolute nightmare fitting them due to the previous owner of the car having the wheels done up far too tight. The first wheel was bad, but eventually shifted, ditto the second. The third was remarkably easy, and then came the fourth. Dunno what this was put on with but I did my best increadible hulk impression but it still wouldnt shift. After half an hour of persistance two of the bolts undid - hurrah! So I moved onto the locking bolt, fitted the adapted and gave it my all. Yep you've guessed it the knobs in the adaptor sheared off! What now?! Ive got 3 16" wheels fitted and one 15" wheel (on the back) with a broken locking nut adapter. Obviously ive now accepted defeat, and was just wondering what to do now. Are the adapters for MGFs all the same? If so am I likely to be able to get the blokes at MGR to do me a favour and sort it? I really am now at a loss for what to do, so any advice would be appreciated. So much for a 20 minute job!!! Well at least I wasnt at the side of the road with a flat on the unshiftable wheel...
|Oh forgot to ask, will I be ok driving round temporarily with the wheels set up like this (different sizes)?|
It's illegal to run different tyres on the same "axle" for starters. You could put another 15" wheel on the same axle to get it to a garage, but I couldn't even guess at what the handling would be like and don't expect any sympathy from the fuzz if you are stopped.
A better way would be not to drive the car, but try again with a new adapter. The codes are not all the same and you'll find the right one on your nuts. It might help to spray some WD40 into the nut recess and leave overnight as well. Once you have the wheel off remember to clean any traces of oil especially off the nut thread and braking surfaces.
The long term answer is to tighten the wheel nuts yourself after putting a a hint of copper slip on the mating surfaces of the wheel and nut tapers. Don't use it on the wheel studs or you could end up losing a wheel.
|I've had this happen to me before and managed to get the locking wheel nut off by using a deep impact socket. It wasn't on an MGF though and as I don't yet own one (and thus don't know what the nut looks like)I'm not sure it can be done. Depends how much clearance you have around the nut.|
Basically I hammered a socket that was too tight onto the locking wheel nut using an impact wrench and then used a long strongbar to undo it.
Obviously though I needed a new nut when finished.
If you don't fancy trying this it may well be worth asking your local tyre fitters though as I think they come up against this fairly regularly.
|There should be no problem driving around as long as you stick to a sensible speed, it will be the same as driving on a space saver as the outside diameter should be the same for both a 15" and 16" wheel due to differenr tyre profiles.|
As for what to do the locking wheel nut tool should have a code on it which should be available from a dealer. Maybe a tyre specialist may have a method of removing the locking wheel nut.
Having just had my car serviced it was recommeneded to replace my locking nuts due to the fact the adapter was worn plus the nuts where also and therefore there was no guarantee that they would do up let along be undone.
|Halfords do a "Locking Nut Removal Tool" I have not seen one as they took them off the rack and they are only available from the Counter with ID.|
|When replacing make sure you set them at the correct torque setting ..otherwise this will happen again.|
This is a common occurance due to impact air wrenches being used to re-fit wheels instead of a torque wrench.
|Very common, but surprised you stated you gave it everything as to shear them takes no effort at all, when I did mine I ordered a new one and it went the same way.|
In the end I got a deep 19mm socket and hammered it home with a mallet which really did take some effort. Get it all the way down before turning or you'll be trouble.
I torque them up properly now, even though I got a proper non-MG set of locker now
|Once off, use coppaslip liberally on the studs, the tapered face of the nuts, *and* the mating surfaces of the wheels and hubs too. I have done this for years on all our cars with ally wheels and never had a wheel come off, despite what Chris says !|
|Right, took it to the MGR Dealer in Poole and they said the'd have a go for me. In doing so they broke their adapter tool as well. Oops! Luckily they didn't charge me for it though. They said the only way forward is to try to drill the bolt out, however as it had been so overtightened, the actual stud may have been stretched, and so that may ned replacing as well. To do the minimum amount of work on it (if everything went ok) they said it'd cost me in the region of £75 (inc new locking nuts), however if there were problems the cost could escalate out of control. Hmm, what to do? Ive bought a new adapter off them so that I can remove the new wheels and fit the old ones again, however I may try Charlies idea with the 19mm socket, after all if it doesn't work i'm no worse off than before (with the bolt needing to be drilled out). On the other hand though, I may just say 'stuff it' and stick with the old wheels (although the new ones do look rather good...|
|Mike, yup, Charlie's idea will work, done it myself. Word of caution though, don't use a (cheap) chrome vadium 19mm, it may split in half when you're hammering it on... nearly took my eye out.|
|Do not say "stuff it and leave your old wheels on" as sure as night and day, you will have a puncture on the B**d wheel.|
Your requirements are a cold chisel,a lump hammer and an old fashioned mechanic.
Our "F"s require either strict adherance to the recommended Dealer Servicing (by one of the few who do it properly) or a DIY programme to include "Preventative Maintenance" whereby we remove, lubricate and re-torque wheel nuts after any visit to F** Fit or annualy.
This thread was discussed between 22/12/2004 and 23/12/2004
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