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MG MGF Technical - Flaps & Brakes

A bit behind the plot, but what effect does disconnecting the solenoid on the exhaust flap thingy have? What do I do to 'open' it?
Brake Upgrades: was thinking of braided hoses and some new pads- which pads do you think?
I have a TF 160 BTW.
How easy is it to change the brake hoses- I'm mechanically adept but don't have the manual (50 worth it?).
T M Reid

Disconnecting the flap mechanism means that it stays open all the time = slightly more noise. :o)

It is easy to do, and has no ill-effects: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/exhaust/TF_evc.htm

Hope this helps :o)
Rob Bell

Easy peasy to disconnect. Just to clarify, the electrical connector is above the drivers side rear suspension strut mounting and if you have longish arms you can reach it without having to remove the engine cover. Job done!
Tony

Mine was disconnected when a well known mg specialist replaced the OEM exhaust with an X-Power unit. The pipe was removed from the exhaust valve and a suitable self tapping screw inserted into the pipe. One day I must see if they unplugged at the top end.
John Ponting

Even with normal arms it's easy to reach the connector. But a sort of clip must be first removed, thus allowing to unplug the wire.
That doesn't make a huge diffence, but yes the exhaust tone is *a bit* "sportier" and the car pulls better at lows revs. I've found this particulary when starting from cold.

And while you're at easy mods, I recommend also re-routing the airbox hoses: one to the side air vent, and the other under the gearbox.
You'll find better explanations of this in the archive.

Then the braided hoses job.
I did it on my F, and maybe I'll do it again on the TF, but only when a brake oil change will be due.
I cannot comment on the improvement in braking performance they made, as I changed more important parts at the same time (big discs front, grooved discs rear, all pads).
But IMO, one can't feel it on public roads.
Maybe well on a track, if you have race brake pads and a suited brake fluid. Maybe when going downhill in the mountains aswell !

Something you might consider (me too !!) is the brake servo bracket. As cheap as braided hoses, but I suspect it makes more change.

Cheers,
Fabrice
Fabrice

As Fabrice says, if you use your brakes hard enough to benefit from braided lines, have you strengthened the servo mounting? Lots of movement = pedal feels terrible whatever pads/fluid/hoses you try.

I'm trying the SBS Carbon Ceramic pads at present, they feel much the same as the OE pads in gentle use, but squeal a bit, however I'm very impressed with their performance on track. You would need to consider grippier pads for the rears too (I use Mintex 1166) to preserve the balance.
Mike Hankin

Managed to 'reach round' this afternoon and disconnect the plug. Felt a bit better at low revs- but wondered if that was a 'go faster stripe' effect?! Couldn't hear much, but it was a sunny day and the roof was down!
Have seen the brake servo mounts in B&G, what I'm after is better pedal feel- my missus has a '96 A4 and that has lots of bite in the brakes. Just think the feel is a bit wooly & vague in the TF160 compared to other motors I've driven/ owned (even my old midget!).
Would like to hear more brake upgrade suggestions from out there if you have them.
Tim Reid

A number of suggestions come to mind Tim - including pad upgrades. But first - have you got excess brake servo movement?
Rob Bell

Hi Tim,

My first step would be to replace the brake fluid, I went for 5.1 but I doubt whether I ever stress the brakes enough to benefit from the higher grade, just having fresh fluid with no water or air in it helps... OK this is a natural time to fit the braided hoses too ;o)

Then I'd fit the servo brace bracket, look at Rob's excellent study on the subject http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/brake_servo.htm

If after these steps you still have 'wooliness' I've heard people that replace the master cylinder (or just overhaul it) usually comment on the improved feel.

The rear brakes work harder than they're given credit for, bear in mind they have to slow the engine down as well as their end of the car (the heaviest end, I might add). IMHO you'll see more results for your cash by fitting Mintex 1177s and leaving the AP fronts alone. There was a rumour that the MGR pads were virtually Mintex 1144 compund, maybe not true but they certainly performed very acceptably in the Trophy I had for 40k miles.

When you achieve the right pedal feel, do a track day http://www.mgs-on-track.com/ and enjoy watching the speedo needle go from 110 to 50 in a heartbeat or two - even better when you have an ill-prepared passenger... ;o) Cadwell Park is a good testing ground albeit a slightly remote one, that'll be next year but much sooner is the North Weald event - at
Mike Hankin

This thread was discussed between 09/08/2005 and 10/08/2005

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.