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MG MGF Technical - help how to remove rear lower engine steady bolt
i try to install my new 4-2-1 from MS but in the instruction he said "To fit new manifold remove rear lower engine steady bolt which will allow movement of engine and access of the manifold between engine & sub frame " but were is this steady bolt.
somebody could help me ?
thanks a lot
|I presume it means engine mounting or torque reaction bar? No idea where they are but one major one is near the drive belts but I wouldn't touch that one or you might end up with an engine on your head - is there a tie-bar that stops the engine rocking backwards and forwards near the base of the engine? there normally is.|
thanks for your reply
after reading all the instruction, i assume the bolt can be put back easily, i give you a copy of the instruction, please tell me what your understand.
"Remove old manifold & down pipe
Remove lambda sensor from old manifold
Check threads are in good condition
To fit new manifold remove rear lower engine steady bolt which will allow movement of engine and access of the manifold between engine & sub frame
Assemble system and check alignment before tightening
Note always replace cylinder head / manifold gasket & ensure manifold studs are fitted to head. Before fitting manifold"
|There is an engine steady bolted to the sump, IIRC there are four 15mm bolts that fix it into place, or one big bolt that goes thru the bush.|
If you undo the bush bolt then be aware that it needs to be done up _really_ tight or it will rattle
Thanks for the info
i try and it works, the engine move, but now by which way will i install the 4-2-1, by the top or by the bottom (sorry for that) ?
it's not so simple, thanks again for comments
The only way you can get in there, is from the bottom. Get someone on the top to push the engine forwards, and then try and get it up there. Will work, but might give a wet forehead and bloody hands.
Might be useful to have a wooden block and a hammer with you, as it's very tight.
Remember to double check, that the oxy sensor don't rub against the driveshaft.
|I used http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Clamps%20Quick-Grip|
you can remove the fixed head and put it on the far end for spreading loads, and then use it to push the bottom of the engine away from the bulkhead.
This means that you don't need an attractive assistant who cannot push as hard as you need and will let go halfway thru trapping your hands.
great idea :)
Something available in DE also
first i would like to thanks you all
you were really helpful, i and my brother could fix my 4-2-1, exactly as you said but without the tool, we pushed on the engine and we kept it with a piece of wood, and after that we had just enough space to pass the manifold by under the car (but we had to put the car really high on the security tools) but now it's done and i can enjoy my car.
I did stay almost three week under my car to change some bits, dumpers (spax), PU bushes on all the car (powerflex), lower front wishbone because they were rusty, hose brake (goodrigde), new AP Racing calliper + greenstuff pads, the four Grease Nipple as in the dieter's web site, new disc (EBC Ultimax), painted in red the rear caliper (folia tec), 4-2-1 exhaust manifold (piper from Mike satur)+ GT exhaust from Milltek, K&N air filter and the chrome boxer MK2 (Mike satur). So now i have a almost new car and i love it like this.
thanks again to all (Dieter, Rob, Will, Kjeld, Tony, etc...) i got some informations from all the people from all the forums (french and english) and private web site that we can found on the net.
Without you, i don't think i could do it, and doing it by myself help me a lot to understand how my car works.
We can be lucky to have you, the mgf/tf owners are really friendly and share information more easily than some sellers who are really well known on the net (no name).
Blocks of wood, that brings me back....
Glad you are all sorted, but I warn you this is not the end of it, today it's an exhaust manifold, tomorrow the head and before you know it you'll be spending every night in the garage with a welder trying to breath life back into the shell of a classic MG as your wife makes firepots on the lathe.
Or is that just me?
i know it and i am already in the darkside since i bought this car.
i think my wife will prefer that i have a mistress now LOL...
|As mine says|
"It keeps him out of trouble and off the streets"
A mistress would be cheaper in the short term, but neither mistresses or cars are good investments ;)
My 1997 MGF is leaking green water from the rear. Any ideas what this might be? Am I heading towards a Head Gasket issue? Or could this be something simple?
|it could be, also could be a leaking water pump, loose hose clip, leaky coolant cap|
the first thing to find out is exactly where it is leaking.
in front of the engine, behind the drivers seat is bad, but looks very close to drivers side middle of the engine (waterpump) and rear (coolant cap)
central down the line of the car is pipework or hoses
|Will said "This means that you don't need an attractive assistant who cannot push as hard as you need and will let go halfway thru trapping your hands"|
This thread was discussed between 18/07/2007 and 25/07/2007
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