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MG MGF Technical - HGF Fixed, Now None Starter
|Okay, so here I am, chuffed to pieces after stripping down an MGF Abingdon 1.8 vvc, replacing the head gasket, belts and tensioner. Certainly the biggest job I've tackled so far....|
Just got the car back together but problem is it doesn't fire up!! It's got to be something I haven't put back correctly!!
The car turns over without even a hint of firing. Checked and I have a spark but when I pull out the plugs they are bone dry, not even a whiff of fuel on them. I've removed the fuel line after the filter, placed a cup under and switch on the ignition - fuel pumps freely. Re-connected and pulled off the return line from the fuel rail and did the same. A measured amount of fuel flows and then stops (the noise you hear when you turn on the ignition). Perhaps injectors? But I think they were fine before I dismantled the engine as I did a compression test before I started and there was a strong smell of fuel when I did it.
Think it might be sensor related as there is no fuel in any cylinder - but which sensor? I know when you put your foot to the floor and then turn the engine over, the fuel is shut off - wondered if it was something like that.
It was the end of a long day when I tried to start the car, so I'll have fresh look tomorrow... Any pointers would be much appreciated...
The timing is spot on and I've checked the fuel shut off switch, plus the leads are on in the correct order... I've checked the obvious things is what I'm getting at.
|I should have said that I did disconnect the lead from the crank sensor so that I didn't damage it when I was fitting the flywheel locking tool. I did reconnect it but it's the one sensor that isn't easy to see. Would a poor / no signal from the crank sensor stop the injectors firing? Is there any other sensor that would do this? Can you test sensors with anything? A meter for example?|
I found this comment in another thread
"I know you've already changed the crank sensor, but to test if the crank sensor is working you might try listening to the injectors. If you have a engineers stethoscope then put it on the hard line along the injectors, they should tick as the engine gets turned over. If you have no stethoscope then a length of pipe is quite good at isolating noises."
Maybe it will help...
|How stupid do I feel?|
I've just been out to the car, armed with Clive's information above. Quickly checked the crank sensor connection (fine) and thought I'll just make sure that big multiplug which connects to the iinlet manifold loom is in place.... DOH!!! What an idiot... Not connected!
Connected it, turned the key... YES, we have life! A lot of smoke out of the exhaust to start with (maybe more steam than smoke) but the car hasn't been run for nearly a year. That cleared as the engine got up to temperature... Water seems to be circulating fine and I've got hot air at the heater.....
Just got to flush everything through now... The nice clean (cheap) oil that I used has turned rather milky after it's picked up the mayo remnants up from within the engine and the water has an oily film on it's surface and little 'floaty bits' swimming around (think they are off the bottom of the expansion tank after it had been left empty and the oily film had coated it)
So still a bit of work to finish off but, hey, she lives again!!
Thanks for your help Clive.
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This thread was discussed between 26/05/2009 and 12/06/2009
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