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MG MGF Technical - How to change brake pads etc (help needed)
Hiya Guys Long time no post!!! Well my brakes are shagged, and having been to Halfords and found that I can get pads and disks for £50 I am not keen on paying a futher £100 for some YTS lad to do the work. I have had a quick look at Rob's site there is a link to "Replacing Pads/ Disks" I have to admit I am a novice, but have undertaken a fews bits of DIY on my F. Any pointers? Cheers Sunil |
Sunil |
Sunil Just follow Robs instructions and it will take about 30 mins per side. Make sure you have copper grease ready, an impact hammer to remove the 2 set screws and a hide or copper hammer to "persuade" the disks to drop off. BTW the set screws will probably not come with the new disks and you need to visit an MGR dealer for them (2 per disk). Wrap rags round the fluid master cylinder BEFORE pushing piston back. Finish one side first and pump pedal before starting second side - pushing both pistons back will almost certainly overflow the master cylinder and spread fluid around the bodywork. Get a spray can of brake cleaner and clean everything well before and after. Take it slowly and remember IT's NOT JUST YOUR LIFE IF YOU SCREW UP! |
John Ponting |
It has certainly been a while Sunil! How have you been? Changing the pads and discs are pretty straightforward - and experience makes things infinitly easier. To remove the discs (and there are quite a few comments regarding this in the archives), the areas to note as potentially problematic are removing the locator screws (where present - MGR garages have a habit of leaving these off, bless 'em), and knocking the discs off the hub. Needs a fair bit of welly, and remember to rotate the disc between hits. Good luck! |
Rob Bell |
Just a thought.. do you need the set screws? My Audi doesn't have them, (these are the original discs) and relies on the clamping force from the wheel and wheel bolts, even on the fronts.. |
mike |
The screws aren't necessary, you're right Mike - but they are helpfull in insuring that the disc is properly located. |
Rob Bell |
Screws were missing from my car when I changed disks and pads recently. Not really necessary as disks cannot fall off when the wheel is on anyway. Fitted new screws but left them loose and well coppered. A thought: depending on how well the disks fit to the carrier would it be possible for the disk to oscillate and push the pads back under normal driving? There could then be a delay in braking as the pads need to be moved further than normal? I have experienced something similar on a bike in the past where the pads had been pushed out and braking was affected for a short period. |
John Ponting |
As you know John, no brake rotor is completely "true" - and the ensuing "wobble" is used to retract the pads when hydraulic pressure is released. I'm not sure whether it is possible to have the rotor sitting slighly off (maybe with dirt on the mating surfaces) - but I suspect that the result of this would be fairly noticeable within a short period of time - and not as a longer pedal action. Actually I'm not sure you could notice this on a car in the same way as on a 'bike - servo assistance and the mechanical linkages probably dulling your sensitivity to this? |
Rob Bell |
Rob's instructions are great but do not understimate the difficulty of removing the discs. The screws can be difficult and even with the screws out it took several two handed blows with a 2 lb hammer to stsrt the discs moving. |
Brian |
Hiya Rob/ all Gosh I missed Silverstone again!!! can't believe it! I may actually just take it to a garage and let them do it. I am away at weekends in Manchester, visiting the gf! Sunil |
Sunil |
Pads are a doddle Sunil - so do these yourself and get the garage to do the discs for you. This way you'll save on some of the labour charge. Enjoy Manchester :o) |
Rob Bell |
This thread was discussed between 21/09/2003 and 23/09/2003
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