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MG MGF Technical - Landrover Head Gasket fitting
|Does anyone have the LR bulleten that is noted in the leaflet in the pack and/or can anyone tell me how the fitting instructions differ from a standard gasket.|
I assume the shim needs bonding, or can I ignore it altogether and get a better CR?
|No bonding required Will - the engine heat does that after a couple of heat cycles.|
I don't think you can leave the shim out - the gasket is designed with its use - and probably needs it to ensure that the fire rings bed in correctly.
|hmmn, sounds suspect, but i'll give it a go.|
Another thing, the rover parts manual lists two diffrent remote thermostats one is marked PRT and the other one not, was there a remote thermostat that wasnt the PRT?
|Rover or Land Rover? To my knowledge, the only remote thermostat fitted to K-series is the PRT.|
Might be worth querying a LandRover forum?
|Only PRT then.|
|I wonder why there are two on the EPC - diffrent rubber hoses? (I brought the one with the simpler looking pipework)|
|I can only see PEM101020 listed Will?|
|is it online?|
|Yes - on Dieter's webpage. http://www.mgfcar.de/epc|
|hmn, I think I have ordered "21"|
Which lists itself as for the CVT.
The pieset on the left seems to include a heater hose, do this mean that the elbow that bolts to the head is changed to no have a heater take-off?
|... having looked in the EPC the elbow does not have a take off for the heater... where did I get that from?|
|I was under the impression that '21' was a hose set rather than the thermostat? Will be interesting to see what you get.|
Not sure about the elbow, sorry. One for Dieter?
|the elbow does have the heater take off - I have checked|
|The L/R gasket is not as simple as it seems - It is supposed to be fitted with a modified bottom rail and a stronger set of head bolts to a higher torque, as yet not available in a service bulletin.|
I have just fitted one to a 1.8 Freelander and it failed due to one liner not being at the correct height - read & learn from Dave Andrews.
Until there is some "real use" feedback I would stay with the latest Rover head gasket but make completely sure the liner heights are correct above the block face.
Also, don't forget new head bolts or at least check they are within the length tolerance.
Took everything off to find it was the water pump, but too late to find out if this was the only leak, so pulled the head anyhows...
No failure on the current gasket... BUT my 0.1mm feeler gauge says that there is very little clearance between the head and liners (I need to clean it up propper but with my "not in any way an engineers straight edge" ruler 0.1mm looks too tight).
Do I take the LR gasket and rail back and get a rover one - or do I fit the LR gasket??
|Given what DVA's posted in the recent past regarding the higher sensitivity the LR gasket set has to liner heights, I would be very tempted to resturn the LR gasket and oil rail and replace with a standard-type gasket Will.|
How annoying that it was the water pump all along! :o/
|Really annoying :(|
Will, please let me know what you could find to rule out confusions with that parts kits. I've no sense on details in the flesh. Only from mad files :(
|schoolboy error #2:|
Decided to check how low the liners really were , 0.08 slid in real easy, and was _much_ more bendy than the 0.1mm, closer examination revals the 0.1mm was stuch firmly to the 0.13mm with a layer of thick oil (which I put there to protect them a long time ago), checking again this morning and the liners are fine and even.
|LR gasket set an option again then :o)|
|Have you found out anything re the upgraded head bolt & torque settings|
|I would stick on the latest MG gasket, mk3 i believe.|
|Hmm - I don't know what to make of the rumours of an upgraded head long bolt. DVA has discussed this, reporting that the Powertrain engineers finding that the pillars in the block started to crush under the increased compression loads imposed.|
Therefore, I can't see how we'll ever see a retrofittable upgraded long bolt...?
The new LR ladder is stronger to cope with higher torque setting for new bolts. My source same as yours but lack of service bulletin corroborated by local LR dealer who does not know how to fit the new gasket!
I agree with staying with latest Rover gasket?
|suspicious... should I have a rubber sump gasket?|
Derrick, the weak point with increased clamping loads is not said to be the oil ladder at the base of the engine - but rather within the head/block....
But fitting is straightforward. Shim goes on head side of the multi-layer gasket, and black glossy sides are facing upward.
Fitting the oil rail is pretty straight forward to, whilst the heads out and the long bolts removed.
|On the midget the sump is pressed steel and it uses a rubber sump gasket. On the F there appears to be no gasket at all - do I use gec108?|
|There's a 'paper' gasket - but I don't think that it's available on its own? Probably a part of a complete gasket set - LVQ000070|
|Chaps you need Land Rover service bulletin LN303-005, where all your questions are answered|
|Paul, I don't suppose you've got a copy you could send us do you? :o)|
|I don't have a copy. I suggest that Will goes back to the dealer where he bought the gasket and asks to see it.|
|Will send me an email |
might be able to help!
This thread was discussed between 13/04/2006 and 28/04/2006
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