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MG MGF Technical - lowering the mgf(the easy way)
Hi all, I just want to know if what ive done is bad for the car. I had the mgf serviced at a main dealer and they raised the suspension back to standard height. I hated it so decided to lower the car by letting the fluid out as i read in some instructions. It now looks wicked and handels wicked but is low. Is this bad for the car? |
gee |
Depends on how low Gee |
Rob Bell |
Hi Rob, The final height is 345mm on each side. looks great and feels good(a bit harsh) I tried it on my own and i think i got carried away. I dont have the knuckles either. I can live with it like this but im more worried about damaging the car. It was this kind of height when i got it. |
gee |
If you have only just let the fluid out then you might find that come tomorrow morning the car will be riding on the bump stops. Then you really will have a firm ride. Lowering too much can leave the tracking up the spout and rather than improving the ride you'll suffer poor handling and excessive tyre wear. A lot of us agree with you that the car in standard form look rather like a freelander than a MG. In the long term you ought to consider having the car properly lowered with lowering knuckles, it may seem an expense but in the long run it's cheaper on tyres. |
tim woolcott |
345mm should be okay - I have done exactly the same thing, and lived with it for a couple of years with no obvious damage or problems. Since then I've gone for the full lowering knuckle + damper upgrade, as you probably already know. The only problem for you now is that the suspension is now so soft that it bangs on the bump stops all the time - hence the paradoxically harsh ride. When you can, get lowering knuckles and dampers fitted - but in the mean time, enjoy the mean new look! ;o) Oh, almost forgot - get your tracking re-set. If you don't do this, you may find that your tyres will start wearing at an alarming rate. Go for 0 degrees at the front, and 0 degrees 5 minutes toe-in at the rear (or 10 minutes if you haven't got the rear tiebar compliance bush spacers fitted). |
Rob Bell |
Just read Tim's comments - and agree. 345mm as a STABLE height is fine - but if it drops further, then the problems will really start... |
Rob Bell |
Thank you for ur help . i;ll prob leave it like this for the time being and see wot happens. |
gee |
Just one tip. This applies to whatever method of lowering is opted for. Watch out for those speed cushions. Your front end should clear reasonably easily but the exhaust flexipipe is quite a bit lower and has a tendancy to get wacked. You might find that rather than straddling the car over the bump you need to go one wheel on, one wheel off. to guarantee missing it. |
tim woolcott |
Tim, this is exactly wot ive been doing over the speed humps in my road. 1 wheel only going over the opposite side of the hump. If i got bigger wheels i guss i would hve to make it higher again but it would look lower since the wheel is bigger |
gee |
Sadly bigger wheels won't help. The overall diameter remains the same just the height of the tyre wall alters. However, if you are interested in a set of 16" wheel I may be selling mine off in the very near future. Square spokes with Eagle F1's the rubber is 9 months old albeit with one trackday use. |
tim woolcott |
One word....Techspeed My car was "lowered" through reduced hyrdagas pressure and everything seemed ok until I smashed open my piggy bank and sent it's contents and the car to Techspeed. Only then was it obvious, regardless of ride height, what a shortcut the Hydragas route really is. I know not everyone can afford or justify major mods but a correctly lowered car is so much better. |
Bob |
Thank you, you lot are so helpful. I'll have to see how many pennys are in my piggy box. |
gee |
This thread was discussed between 06/05/2003 and 07/05/2003
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