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MG MGF Technical - MGF : Doesn't start : Problem with sparkplugs ?

Hi,

I have a problem with my car. It was stopped for few months because of a gearbox problem.
But now we want to start it again and it doesn't start.

The spark on sparkplugs is yellow. It's blue in normal way ?

Is it the ignition ? The coil ?

Please, help me !

Thanks in advance !

Arnaud
Arnaud

Do you know about the works and where it got done ?

If not and the gearbox repair was done 'anywhere'...
Push the emergency button on the far left in the engine bay.
It's located left of the ECU. A black plastic box with rubber dust cover.

Just one of several options.

Regards
Dieter
PS. this switch only keys in due to an impact or strong cambered angles.
Dieter K.

Thanks for the answer. But I don't really understand what to do ?

If you want, you have few details and pictures about the work done recently on my car :

http://mgfcup.forumtuning.com/index.php?lg=eng&id=mycar_journal
and pictures here :
http://mgfcup.forumtuning.com/index.php?lg=eng&id=mycar_photos
Arnaud

Thanks, I had a look.

---cut ---
9 September 2003 : The car will be ready in few days.
In fact, the 5th gear synchro was blocked. As previously described, we replaced many things in the same time. Here is a list of what was changed on the car :
(Sorry, many names are still in french !)
- 5th gear synchro
- Gear box balls ('roulements') + 'joints spi' + 'silentblocs'
- The 2 gearbox cables are also new
- Full AP-Racing clutch + new clutch bleed pipe
- 'Joint spi de moteur', 'distribution', water pump
- Full uprated head gasket set
- 'Joints echappement'
- All the engine hoses
- 'Coupelles de soupape'
- The 4 ball joints + ALL the 'rotules', front + rear
- Throttle body, now in Aluminium (instead of plastic) and with diameter of 52mm (instead of 48)
- Testpipe which will be used only for trackdays
and, of course : new engine oil (new oil filter, new 'bougies'), gearbox oil changed + clutch liquide, 'remise à niveau des amortisseurs hydrauliques ainsi que parallélisme' !
Here it is, I hope I didn't miss anything in this loooooong list ! (and later I hope I'll translate everything in english)
_____cut end_________

It seams you got a new car ;)

Anyway:
Option #1
Push the emergency button on the far left in the engine bay (boot access), left of the ECU.

A black plastic box with rubber dust cover.
It is located direction below the left boot lid hinge on this picture
http://mgfcup.forumtuning.com/MyCar/Ete2003_20big.jpg

This switch cuts out the fuel pump in emergency case. (accident impact from anywhere.

Option #2
However, regarding your look at the spark colour and all the works done I'd suggest looking as well for connections to the ignition coil.

Option #3
Are you sure the battery is still OK ?

Option #4
Check power lines to the alternator.

btw. your car was made in April 1996, so quit near to the date of first registration :)

HTH
Dieter
http://www.mgfcar.de << missing link on your site ;)
Dieter K.

Option#5
after having seen this picture, find me speachless.
http://mgfcup.forumtuning.com/MyCar/Ete2003_3big.jpg

Lost ignition tining and/or lost valve timing.

Are you sure that 'Master Alain' knew what he did ?

Regards
Dieter
Dieter K.

Thanks Dieter for all those ideas !!

We'll look first for the ignition coil.

Regarding the link to your site... it's already in my favourites websites... but my "link" page is not ready...
Arnaud

Hi Arnaud - your car certainly has a fantastic history doesn't it? :o)

>>
The spark on sparkplugs is yellow. It's blue in normal way ?
Is it the ignition ? The coil ?
<<

The fact that you are getting a spark indicates that that the coil/ignition wiring is not the culprit for your car not starting.

As the pictures show, your engine has been taken apart as part of the transmission rebuild. What this means is that your non-starting problem could be almost anything.

So the fault needs to be found through a logical process of elimination:
1. Is there a spark? (yes)
2. Is there fuel getting to the injectors? (the interial "Roll over" switch that Dieter mentions is certainly a good area to check)
3. Is the spark correctly timed? Unlikely to be a problem if the distributor was not removed from the engine - and drive is taken directly from one of the cam shafts.
4. Are the cams correctly timed? In the photo that Dieter highlighted, the cam wheels are shown with the cam belt removed - and NO LOCKING TOOL IS PRESENT. No problem if you are able to re-set the cam timing afterwards - but could certainly cause problems with engine starting if the cams were not correctly reset... I think that you are going to need to get this checked as a matter of course.
5. Are all the sensors working correctly? (crank position sensor for example)

If you are still unable to find the problem after all that lot, I'd be surprised - and frustrated!

Good luck, and let us know how you get on! :o)
Rob Bell

>Lost ignition tining and/or lost valve timing.

Although this is not recomended, once the pistons are moved to the correct marker, the valves can be 'let go' without any risk of impacting the pistons. In fact when removing the head the manual tells you to rotate the cams to uncover the centre two head bolts, retimeing is just a case of making the lines line up again
Will Munns

Fuel:
The fuel pump should thunk for about a second after turning the ignition on, then it should stop, you should also get a petrol smell if the car is cranked for any time. Note, from compleatly drained, the initial burst may not pressureise the rails, turn on and off repeatedly untill the pump note changes.
Ignition:
You should check the spark (colour shouldn't matter), see how far the spark jumps, remember that it is more difficult to jump in the engine (pressure etc) and so in free air it should jump much further.
Next check is the order, Check that the spark plugs are fireing in the right order, it may sound obvious, but it trips up many!
Exaust:
The exaust should be free of blockages, Take off the cat and retest (blockages should be further down in the system)
Inlet:
Too little fuel may also be your problem, ensure the inlet manifold is correctly sealed (all nuts done up!) and that all air holes are either plugged or filled with the correct pipes (vacume hose to the brakes, vacume hose to the ECU, vacume hose to the purge tank). Try clamping the hose to the IACV (thick hose to bypass the throttle, if the car is "better"[still may not start]) then the IACV is faulty/diconnected. Does the thottle body shut compleatly- could the throttle cable be too tight? Is there a blockage on the air filter?
You are starting with your foot off the accelerator right?
Oil:
You have compleatly drained the system of oil, there will be some delay in getting the oil rails pressureised, if the engine is stiff then it could be difficult to start, continue cranking to pressureises the system.
Will Munns

Again... Thanks to all those ideas ;-)
I'll tell you the results...
Arnaud

We finally changed the ignition and it started directly ;-)
Thanks again for all your comments !!

My car will soon be back on the web at mgfcup.forumtuning.com (or www.mgfcup.com !)
Arnaud

Good news Arnaud! Which ignition components did you change in the end?

Great web site by the way - forgot to congratulate you before about it :o)
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed between 20/09/2003 and 26/09/2003

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