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MG MGF Technical - MGF Cambelt change

Has anyone tackled a cambelt change on the MGF. I was intending to do my own and were wondering if there are any issues I could encounter.

I have ordered a cam lock and a flywheel lock. I have heard the flywheel lock can be tricky to fit - is this true. Do I need to lock the flywheel so I can undo the crank bolt. Any other reason why it has to be locked ?

I intend to change the belt, tensioner and water pump (which I assume will need a coolant refill afterwards - I'm aware of the three nipples) !!!

Any tips appreciated.

P.S. Which is the best belt and auto tensioner to get (MY2000 - MGF 1.8i mpi)
D Mondo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM5oA2X03z8
Sue Wilson

Dez, is it you ? :)

anyway, check the archives with loads for useful hints on the matter.
I didn't use the flywheel locking tool, it's not required when you have access to a strong impact driver.



Dieter

Ha, ha. Yes, it's me. I assume you're refering to FB. I still haven't plucked up the courage to do it. The Flywheel and cambolt is freaking me out !!!

There's a screwdriver method but I haven't worked out where to secure it on the flywheel. Does the engine have to be locked during the whole cambelt change or is it purely to lock it so the cambolt can be easily removed.

I actually have a 12v impact driver - hopefully will be strong enough. Combined with putting it in first gear and the handbrake on - do you reckon I'll be able to get the bolt loose ?
D Mondo

*g* :) :) that's what I'll try with my next cambelt change.
I too bought such funny 12V impact driver (350Nm and made in Romania) in last year after I was told from another F'er that it should work for the crank shaft bolt.

You woun't need any more blockage of the crank if you use the impact driver.
But mark the screw head angle versus the crank pulley with a piece of white chalk before undoing the heavy screw. This is to put it back with the right torque.

Lead your attention to the engine mount and it's bolts at the cam belt cover. You need to loosen it and lower the engine carefully to swap out the old and swap in the new cam belt. The less movement of the engine you have, the easier you get back the screws to the mount without damaging the treads.

Another hint is to easy get the cambelt back on all the wheels. Put the new tensioner in place, but don't screw it on before you haven't lead the cambelt all around.

Also be carefull with the cam wheel locking tool. It can easy fall off if not held in place with a cable tie or anything similar.

Last one on the waterpump. Mind you that one of the screws is put in from the other side.
However, good light and a clean work place and a lot of patience is recommended.
And don't forget to replace the standard hose clamps with good stuff stainless steel clamps while you are on there.
Dieter

Putting the new belt on means changing your position from upside ( to shift the belt over the camwheels)to underneath/sideways (to shift the belt over the pulley and pumpwheels). I used these little plastic wedges to keep the belt in place whilst I could change position (or go for a coffee). Good luck, Huib


Huib Bruijstens

I am converting a midget to a Kseries and did a cambelt change on that engine - this gave me some confidence and I tackled my 2001 MGF - I managed to complete the entire change in 3.5 hours (I didnt change the water pump which I know most will say is false economy but my F has no heating issues at all and I just know if I do the coolant - i'll never bleed it and get a HGF...sods law!!)

I found it really pretty easy - my issue was the new belt was a real tight fit and I really struggled to get the belt over the tensioner.....I used screwdrivers and spanners to lock the belt tight to the crank pulley and again over the inlet cam wheel etc.

I used a whizzy gun and the crank bolt cam out easy - only with the locking key in.

Jon
Jon White

This thread was discussed between 04/05/2011 and 12/05/2011

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