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MG MGF Technical - MGF not starting in rain

Has anyone had a problem with their MGF not starting when it's been raining. Mine has been ok for the last two years and since my very expensive service at a Rover dealer it has failed to start on rainy mornings.
Wendy

Mine is the same. You'll find it is probably plugs, plug leads or condensation within the Distributer cap. The problem with bad starting is that if you flood the catalytic converter with fuel, it won't last very long. Starting problems are a Ba****d!
Andrew Hay

Wendy,

Had the same problem. New leads - problem cured. Almost certainly the same problem for you - how old is it. Mine's 96 - so leads lasted four years only.
Gordon

I have just experienced the same problem - having bought an 1997 MGF yesterday to find it wouldn't start this morning after being out in the rain. Not impressed !. It's good to know that there is likely to be a simple solution to the problem. Are there any recommendations for the the best types of leads and plugs. Does anybody have a link to diagrams that show the details of the engine bay and/or any service/maintenance manuals.

Thanks
David Fudge

Exactly the same, has any one found the best leads etc.
graeme arnold

Try Browns and Gammons

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=bg

You can buy them online as well!

Best thing to do it get a new HT silicon leads + spark plugs.

Read through the archieve, and there will be plenty of info.

:)

Good luck!

Regards,
Hanah
Hanah Kim

Andrew, I'm just looking around the board as no MGF's over here. My question is: does the MGF not incorporate a "clear flood" mode that cuts fuel if the gas pedal is fully depressed while starting? Most fuel injection systems here do so you can start the car in case its flooded. Just wondering.
Joaquin

Not Really sure, but the real problem is the mis-firing and spluttering, which is typical of bad start. This fires unburnt fuel into the catalysts.
Andrew Hay

Joaquin,

No.

:-)

E
Ed Clarke

Whic is not to say it wouldn't be a really god idea
Ed Clarke

>>Andrew I presume you are following the advice in the handbook. But do your know the symptons of a Cat that has been damaged by being flooded with fuel?

>>Ed It says in the handbook that this is the way to clear a flood. So I presume the MGF must have a 'fancy' clear flood mode.
John

Had the same problem, Tried leads, plugs but eventually turned out to be a damaged coil casing about 100 quid to fix at the dealer.
Tim

Re 'Clear Flood' action.
Had similar starting problems for 3 or 4 years.
Don't know if this is advisable but after flooding the engine you can disconnect the elec. supply to the fuel pump. Its just inside the engine bay on the nearside. If you disconnect this while turning over the engine it should clear it.
Steve Brough

I had this problem for some time. In the intervening period I kept a small piece of thick plastic sheeting (about the size of the boot vent) in the boot. Once parked I opened the boot and popped the plastic over the grill. I never had any probs starting. Just remember to remove the plastic b4 u start up again.
Don't use thin plastic as this will melt. I think I did this for a year b4 I could be bothered to get things sorted. It was easy at the time. It worked and was better than popping a hair dryer down the back of the engine and drying out the coil (I've done that as well).

Never once did the car not start if I had the grill covered.

Obviously in a 15K car u should not have to do this but it saves on the inconvenience.

Gaz
Gaz

My VVC had this problem when I first got it:

the 'clear flood' thing didn't work at all - though disconnecting the pump worked almost immediately, though I don't recall the handbook saying anything about putting the throttle pedal all the way down clearing floods.

The other thing that worked was leaving the car for fifteen minutes, which presumably lets the chambers drain.

Changing the plugs sorted it. Didn't have time to do leads as well, or anything to coils, but it's been fine even after standing in the lovely rain for ages: without the vents covered.

The 'nice' man who showed me the fuel pump trick said that the AA had run a few private tests on Cats, (I think he said like running two tanks full of leaded fuel through one), and there had bee remarkably little damage - have no idea whether this is true. Anyone else hear about this?

E
Ed Clarke

Better off removing the fuel pump fuse than disconnecting it physically!

N837 OGF
Hugh

Ed, it was a 'nice man..... a very nice man.....a very, very nice man' who showed me the fuel pump trick too. they have some top tips up their sleeves them guys.
Hugh, it disconnects it electrically... not physically!
Steve Brough

Steve - must admit it worried me a little disconnecting and reconnecting the fuel cut-off switch (which is just an interrupt in the pump supply). Never sure how well these things are retained in their sockets.
Ed Clarke

Can anyone tell me if Rover know about this STARTING problem,i have heard a lot of people with the same fault,does Rover not lisen to public problems though the Main Dealers,is ther a way of letting them know of the fault,It realy Pi**s me of when i took my F any said i had this problem and dealer said never had this happen before or no reports from Rover,the guy thinks im a total nutter keep taking it back,but i will keep doing so till it's fixed!!!!!!!!1

ken
ken

Ken

Of course Rover know of the problem and we are told (by a mole) that they read these BBS.

Why dont you do what a lot of us have done when dealers say 'never heard of that one' - take a print out of these postings.

And BTW this dealer/manufacturer attitude is not unique to Rover/MG - I get the same thing with BMW dealers when I have a problem with my BMW and fortunately I have a link to an excellent BBS for my model BMW.

Ted
Ted Newman

Same Problem on my late 98 VVC, new HT leads replaced under warranty did the trick
Louise Karmazyn

HAD EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM !
NEW PLUG LEADS SORTED THE PROBLEM, BEWARE! PLUG LEADS
AVERAGE 52 PER SET FROM MAIN DEALER FOR THE VVC
ENGINE.ALSO THE LEADS ARE A BITCH TO FIT !
THE PROBLEM IS ROUTING THE LEADS & CONNECTING THEM TO
THE LITTLE CLIPS EN-ROUTE (KEEPS THEM AWAY FROM THE HOT
PARTS OF THE ENGINE) SHOULD BE A REALLY EASY JOB, BUT THESE LITTLE B-GGERS CAUSED ME A LOT OF GRIEF.
Adie Oldham

I had a lot of trouble and went through few sets of leads and plugs. But you're never sure exactly what the dealer is doing with your car when they get it in the workshop.
I was told the cure included mods to the EMS which is prone to getting xtremely damp. They also said that the car has twin coils and a mod was also required to prevent arcing between them when water entered through the engine bay vents. Can anybody confirm this?
On the subject of knee-jerk answers by dealers and Rover, on more than one occasion i was told 'we would never sell a car that .......insert appropriate fault...'. Well they have and they still do. Plenty of folks on here can testify to that.
Steve Brough

The "mod" to the ECU is simply coating its case join with silicone sealant.
I believe the coils have been moved on the 2000 MGF to top and back of the engine.
JonBaker

Just read this posting... and for the record my late 98 VVC is also appauling at starting in a damp cold morning. It splutters like... well you know the crack. Mind its not failed,,, yet touch wood.

I used to have a '95 Rover 214SEI, which had exactly the same characteristics as this !! The main dealers never sorted it, thats why I got rid of it!
Mark Rodman

This thread was discussed between 04/02/2001 and 16/02/2001

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