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MG MGF Technical - MS Daytona Fitting advice

Hi Guys, some advice please. I have aquired a MY2K Daytona exhaust and need to fit to my '97 F. MGF Cetre have fitted an adapter pipe to the exhaust so that it will marry to my mk1 cat ok, but want rather a lot of money to fit it. So my question is...

How easy is it to fit an exhaust? Particularly the Daytona, is there anything specific that I need tool wise? Really can't afford to have it fitted but don't want to stuff the job up.

Any advice gratefully received.

Err how much are they looking for fitting?

Any small local garage could fit it for you, for not much more than the cost of a pub lunch and a couple of pints.

paul weatherill

75+VAT, which I thought was a bit pricey. Certainly more than a pub lunch and a few pints!!

From looking around it doesn't look to difficult, the one I have was fitted fairly recently (within last 18 months) so I am hoping that the cat bolts will be ok.

Fitting the new one is easy, but removing the old is where problems can be encountered.
Do a search for 'cat nuts' and you'll see what I mean.
Steve White


Replaced my TF160 original box for a Miltek recently. Although my car was only about 9 months old I couldn't get the old nuts off. Make sure you have replacement bolts and 'cat saver' nuts ready to put on if you decide to do it yourself.

The saga can be read on the archived thread.



Thanks for the info guys, looks like I might have fun in Saturday then, better get hold of Mike Satur and order some cat savers and a strap if he has them.

I'll keep you posted!!!


Can't remember who but one of the Scottish guts spent 2 days getting his exhaust off earlier this year - full details in archive somewhere.

Went to the pub yesterday lunchtime and it cost me 85 so 75 seems reasonable to me :-)

>> Went to the pub yesterday lunchtime and it cost me 85

Blimey John remind me not to go to lunch with you!! (unless you are paying of course ;-)) I'll have a look through the archives tonight cheers.

a couple of links to convince you to pay Victoria:


Thanks John, that does rather concentrate the bowel doesn't it.

It has been suggested that I invest in a nut splitter, this is also mentioned in one of the above threads. at a piffling 7.99 from screwfixdirect this has got to be the way forward.after this surely all I need is the new nuts and gasket, some exhaust paste, a wire brush and some WD40? Gotta be worth a go IMO.
P Brindley

Daytona doesn't have a strap - it doesn't need one.



Jack up rear of car and secure in the raised position using axle stands:

>> <<

This picture shows where to position the stands and also shows a fitted MS Daytona exhaust using cat nuts! Ain't i good to you? ;-)

OK now the fun begins...

Inspect the six nuts on either end of the catalyst, they will be very rusty and this is going to be your biggest problem (you can see the lower one in the picture - the picture shows a cat saver nut though). If they look beyond reprieve - pay Victoria - it'll be 75.00 well spent! :-)

If they look reasonable, spray them with PlusGas or WD40 (i prefer PlusGas) and allow it to fully penetrate, further sprayings may be required. You need to remove all three nuts from the 'silencer box end' and a further two from the 'flexi-pipe' end to release the exhaust strap (5 of the 6 nuts).

You need:

A 15mm socket
A 10mm socket (IIRC)
A heavy duty ratchet
A long extension
A short extension

The exhaust is attached to the cat with bolts and threaded studs. The studs are part of the cat, they are not seperate bolts. Begin by removing the two nuts securing the strap to the catalyst carefully. WARNING! if the nuts are too far gone, then you will shear the studs off of the catalyst - you can get round this in the short term with a bypass pipe but you WILL need a cat for your MOT - new catalysts are circa 250.00. With these two nuts undone undo the nut and bolt on the strap and slide it off of the cat studs. Use 2 of the cat nuts and some copper grease to replace the rusty nuts you have just removed.

Now undo all three of the rusty nuts on the silencer box end of the cat. With these three removed you should now be able to prise the joint apart and slide the silencer box off of the catalyst it's a bit tricky requiring manhandling of the cat/flexi-pipe and silencer box but there is enough movement available to allow this - discard the old gasket.

On the end of the silencer box is a hook, secured by a further two nuts (this is shown in the picture). Undo these nuts (IIRC they are 10mm), and remove the hook - The silencer box is now loose and you need to support it's weight to avoid damage to your bumper.

Slide the silencer box towards the driver's side of the car, this will unhook it and allow it to drop. You should now be able to withdraw the silencer box towards the front of the car, sliding the tailpipe finishers out of the rear bumper.

With the silencer box removed, inspect the heatshield for damage, there is a silver foil coating and this can degrade over time. If your boot gets unduely warm it is probably this covering that has persished - not really a major issue but with the exhaust removed now is a good time to think about changing it.

The Daytona has removable tailpipe finishers, ensure these are not attached to the new system. Bolt the adapter pipe using a gasket into place (if you have a Mk1 F) and tighten. Loosely bolt one of the silencer box hooks into position then offer up the new silencer box. Hook it into place, support the weight of the box, insert the other hook and bolt loosely into place.

Check alignment of pipes in the bumper opening, adjust and tighten the hook nuts so that it is roughly in position - you will need to fine adjust this later.

Place new gasket on catalyst studs, use paste if you want (i never bother, but some people swear by the stuff, if the gaskets are new and the nuts tight enough then it shouldn't be necessary IMO).

Use the next three cat saver nuts on the cat studs with some copper grease. Tighten.

Although it is not necessary to undo the last catalyst nut to replace the silencer box, now is a good time to do so, so that you have used all 6 cat nuts and are fully 'rust proofed'! :-)

Carefully loosen the hook nuts and take your time adjusting the tailpipes so that they are both spot on central in the bumper recess.

Insert your tailpipe finishers and adjust them so that they are both projecting out of the bumper an equal amount, check also for rotation. Tighten the grub screws/clamps depending on which tailpipes you have chosen.

Lower the car to the ground off of the axle stands.

Start up and enjoy...


Scarlet Fever

> new catalysts are circa 250.00

So I take it the ones on the MGF Centre website for 40 are 2nd hand. Still better off buying half a dozen of them!
Bob Millar

I should point out that B&G charged me 1 hour labour to replace CAT recently and fitted a new exhaust while they were at it. They said that the exhaust would also have been 1 hour if separate. 38 + VAT I believe.

MGF Centre stuff is generally second hand, but in A1 condition.

Scarlet Fever

Just spoke to TechSpeed, they are gonna fit it on Tuesday when it's in for a service and a cheeky lowering ;-D

Wise decision Phil, don't think i could afford to go with Jon either!! now where's me sarnies??? Dave ;-))
DC Morris T6 DCM

>> don't think i could afford to go with Jon either

LOL, we'll have to loiter (sp?) around him next time we all go on a run and have lunch in a pub

Meant to say though...

Thanks for all the advice, never ceases to amaze (especially Andy's Essay ;-))

Well, after a day with the guys at Tech-Speed Motorsport having a service etc and of course the Daytona fitted. I can honestly say that Victoria's price would be totally justifiable, Victoria, if your reading, I'm sorry I ever doubted you!!! And further more I'm blooming glad I didn't try it myself. Very happy with the result though, what a great sound, complements the K&N and makes the F sound like a sports car not a beetle!!

This thread was discussed between 15/10/2003 and 21/10/2003

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