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MG MGF Technical - My F only just got me here this morning......

Morning All

I got my F out of the garage this morning (it started fine) as I got out of the car to close the garage door it stalled. After a couple of minuets I managed to get it going again and proceeded on my way to work only for it to stall about 500m later. This time it took about 5 mins to start, I then got about a mile and a half before it stalled again!. A couple of minuets later I got it started again and made the last mile to work.

I am pretty sure it is because it is very damp this morning. But it has been in to my local dealership twice and they have failed to fix it. Does anyone know what the problem could be? as it only seems to happen when it is damp.

Cheers

James
J Price

See archives for
Leads, cap*, rotor arm*, coils**
In that order.

Will
*if MPi
** if VVC
Will Munns

Odd that you had to problem after getting it out of the garage. The wet starting problem usually occurs when cars are left overnight in the rain.

However the most frequent problem is that the plug leads deteriorate. With a nice long weekend coming up, it you still have the OEM black leads, it would seem worthwhile getting a set of Silcone ones from either Mike Satur of B&G and fit them.

While you have the engine exposed you might as well change the plugs that can also be obtained form the same source as the leads.

Cheers

Patrick
Patrick Beet

Ok :) how hard would this be? (with me not being very technical and all)

James
J Price

twelve 10mm bolts under the carpet on the rear shelf, you will need a socket set or lots of patience.
pull out cover taking care with your hands on the razor sharp bottom edge of the t_bar. engine below, two large cross heads on plug cover, take each lead out and replace one by one to ensure you are puttin them in the same place. Replace in the reverse order.
Will Munns

James, these links may help:

Removal of engine inspection cover: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/engine_cover.htm

Replacement of ignition leads/spark plugs: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/replace_sparkplugs.htm

I really ought to sort some pictures of the rotor arm and dizzy cap - but a pretty easy job, and it is very clear what needs to be done.
Rob Bell

Thanks guys I will give it a try, it doesnt look too hard, I think even I will be able to manage it.
J Price

If your plugs have not been changed in the last 20k miles then suggest doing these at the sme time. You need a long thin plug tool as they are long way down!

Manual says tighten the plugs in the torque wrench. Conbfess I did not both and the engine has been fine.

Whole job should not take more than 1 hour to one and a half at a very leisurely pace. Mininium time, with expereince under half an hour. As already said the big bit is getting at the engine and hiding it again afterwards.

Cheers

Patrick
Patrick Beet

Patrick

I dont think they have been changed in the life of the car, it was 6 years old but only had 19k on the clock when I got her :)

A frend has offerd to lend me a plug tool, so I will order a set of leads/plugs and give it a go. Where is the best place to buy them from I had a look on Mikes but they seemed quite expensive. Is this about right?

Cheers

James

P.s Just went out to move my car at lunch time (awful parking system, dont ask) and it was playing up big time!! I can see I am going to have fun getting home!

:'''-(
J Price

James...if there is still a problem you might try Little Houghton Garage, nr Gt Billing.Stuart Pettit is an MG enthusiast, and you won't pay MGR labour rates.I have no connection with this company other than being a satisfied customer over many years, especially with my B (the TF doesn't go wrong:-)
Blue Max

>Manual says tighten the plugs in the torque wrench.
But the plugs say not to, simply to 'thumb' tighten untill you hit the compression washer, and then 180 degree (usually) turn.

There are two sizes for plug tools, I think you want the smaller one.
Will Munns

James,

B&G do a good mail order service and can supply both plugs and leads. The silicone leads come in expensive and very expensive versions. The expensive are blue and the very expensive are red. I confess I chose the very expensive as I thought the red leads suited the red car better! The suggestion on the BBS is that the blue leads are more than good enough.

You could also try ringing Mike Satur to see it he can supply the lot. I think Mike's silicone leads are cheaper than B&G.

B&G and Mike are listed under advertises in the top pull down menu on this page.

Cheers
Patrick
Patrick Beet


> I think Mike's silicone leads are cheaper than B&G.
Although this wouldn't suprise me, it would surprise me if they are diffrent in any other aspect!

>I confess I chose the very expensive as I thought the
>red leads suited the red car better!
Ah the darkside!!!
Will Munns

I was going to ask about the diferent types of leads Mike has some for 36 ex VAT and B&G have 2 types both red one called Competition 8.5mm and one called high performance these are 59.99 or 49.99 respectivly. Is there really that much difference? Also what are the differences with the spark plugs?

James

P.s Does the MGF center sell them? as they allways seem to be cheaper for things like that.
J Price

The ones B&G stock are made by Magnacore, the stock MG ones deteroate and are treated like service items, the magnacore ones have a lifetime garuntee (SP?)

Will Munns

They are all silcone leads. I thought this was the stuff women used to make there breasts larger but it also appears to make good spark plug leads. I have no idea why. I am sure you would be safe with Mike's, he does not sell dodgy gear!

On the plug front the "safe" choice is the go for the long life ones that Rover spec and these are definitiely supplied by B&G.

Cheers

Patrick
Patrick Beet

Just spoken to a very helpfull chap at Trident and he seems to think they should of been changed at the last (6yr) service, is it possile these were missed? If I ring the garrage to find out will they be able to tell me (from notes/logs etc)?

James
J Price

Changed plugs and leads recently and car runs much better and smoother (not bothering with spulling or granma today) but was surprised by price.

I still thought leads were 1.50 per meter in 'car bits R us' and plugs were about 1.25 each.

Went for blue magnecore from B&G because wife works about 400m away from shop and I didn't even need to get out of armchair to switch on PC.
JohnP

In my service schedule the 6 year one is very cheap after the biggy at 5 years. From memory, I thought it ws the same price as the first year service.

I don't rthink the leads are a service change item - although perhaps it is now!

Cheers

Patrick
Patrick Beet

>I don't rthink the leads are a service change item

I said 'treated like' which I guess was a bad choice of words when I meant 'replaced when worn' (at a service) i.e. replaceable/disposable rather than lifetime.
Will Munns

Decided to go for Mikes leads because they were quite reasonable and didnt want 10 P+P like some other places!! But they had advised me to check the leads first. Anyone got any tips on how I could be more sure it is the leads/plugs, or how I can tell that they are new/old

Cheers
J Price

James

If they are black they are almost certainly MGR and quite likely the originals although no real way of telling.

Are they dirty? Do they have flash marks on them as though they may have been sparking across? etc

If yes then replace them - not that expensive and not that long to do. I personally believe that manufacturers leave plugs/leads too long these days.
JohnP

Thanks John I will have a look all though I am cirtain that they are still the factory fitted ones without looking!!

The plot thickens, I have looked in my service log and it turns out that when I brought the car it was just over 6 years old but only had 19k on the clock.

So the garage I bought it from (a SAAB garage) only did the 32K mile service even though it should of had the 60K/60 month service!! So I am going to go back to them and explain the situation as I believe they may of miss sold it by saying it had a "full service history" and try and get them to pay for the work or at least some of it. I also still have 6 months left on the warranty they gave me. I will keep you posted ;)
J Price

James

You MUST get back to them and get a proper 60000 service carried out as this includes replacing the cambelts which is essential.

The cambelt (2 if VVC) deteriorates with age and wears with miles and the consequences of a belt failure can be very expensive.

I can see why a SAAB dealer may not do a full service as, in addition to lack of knowledge of the car, it is an expensive service e.g. Brown & Gammon quote 480 (1.8MPi) and 499 (VVC) including VAT.

I would suggest getting the supplier to pay for a 60/60000 service carried out by a known specialist like B&G or Little Houghton Garage (as recommended by BlueMax).

FYI the AA do a Parts & Labour Warranty for 49 per year that covers upto 3x 500 claims in a year (if you are an AA member).

Keep us informed.

JohnP

John

I just hope I can convince them they are in the wrong and get them to cough up.

Other than the cambelt, oil filter, fuel filter and plugs/leads, what else is done specificaly at the 60k service (and 48k service as it has been skipped).

Aslo I feel it has been well serviced up to date and is very low milege so would it not be possible just to get these bits done?

Cheers

James
J Price

I have emailed a service schedule (i hope)
JohnP

Thanks for the email, now I have something to show the garrage :)
J Price

Grrr it has got to the stage now where it is undrivable :( Now it just stalls in the mille of rounderbouts etc. I have had to leave the old girl at home today :(

Luckly I got the plugs/leads this morning :) so all should be well.
J Price

james

bit of a problem but don't let it colour your view. Look at the bigger picture.

You will never get a more enjoyable car than the MGF.

You will never get this interaction from another make BBS.

You will never get waved or flashed at by other makes.

etc etc bulls&it

JohnP

John

Dont worry I still love the car :)

I was just a bit miffed this morning about getting stuck on a rounderbout with the roof down looking a prize t1t :(

Oh well these things happen to any cars! you could buy a brand new jag only to have it break down just after you have taken it out of the showroom!!

Keep Smiling :D
J Price

James...sorry to read of your tales of woe! Hope that you get sorted soon - the car looks really great, and judging by the general condiiton I'm sure that these problems are just minor adjustments.Hope to see you soon at another Northants gathering
Bob
Blue Max

Cheers Bob

I changed the leads and plugs but it doesnt seem to have fixed the problem, The leads I took out looked in a good condition but they were stamped 96. The spark plugs were also in good nick.

So I dont think thats what the problem is :( could it be a blocked fuel line or gunked up fuel filter(seeing how that should be changed at 60k too)

Cheers
James

P.s with the new spark plugs/leads it seems to idle higher could this just be the EMS adjusting?
J Price

> with the new spark plugs/leads it seems to idle higher

> could this just be the EMS adjusting?
Thats odd, have you tried the Ignition on(just the red lights, not the engine) , five pushes to the floor of the accelerator and ignition off. This should clear the over-rev'ing, and if the ECU has adjusted to 'old' leads then this may cure the problem, but from what you say it doesn't sound like it will :-(

Take the car back and demand the 5 year service, threaten trading standards they should _not_ have done this!

Will
Will Munns

Will

Yeah I think that is my only choice :( Someone has told me that it mabe dirty injectors, so I have got some injector cleaning stuff to try :)

James

P.s I havnt tried the ECU reset, I will try that tonight :)
J Price

IMHO, by one route or another, you need to get the 5yr service. Plus an MGR dealer will have the diagnostic gizmos to trace the misfire/stalling problem if it still persists - I imagine all a SAAB dealer is qualified to do is tap out the pipe ash and replace the slippers ;-) - a few years ago I had a similar problem that eventually was traced to a faulty temperature sender that was confusing the ECU, for example.
P Hudson

I think you could be right. Where would be a good place to take it round Northampton? Midland? I will try and get the garrage to pay for it tho :)
J Price

James,

I use Townsends in Rushden and they have been v good for me. There is Also Phoenix in the town centre, Bob has had good experience there....
R Goodman

I think!
R Goodman

James

Northants is betwixt & between.

Brown & Gammon are in Baldock, Herts conveniently on the A1. e.g. Baldock Station is just 49 miles from Northampton Station or 32 from Rushden. They have a good reputation, quote service prices on their site and are easy to deal with over the phone.

Little Houghton Garage, nr Gt Billing was recommended earlier by BlueMax. Stuart Pettit is an MG enthusiast, and you won't pay MGR labour rates.

MGF Centre in Wolverhamton are getting very good reports on this BBS but I have no personal knowledge.

Midland MGF advertise more as dismantlers and suppliers of used parts. They may/may not have a service facility.

JohnP

Think it mabee HGF :'''( will start a new thread
J Price

James...as mentioned earlier, and John P repeated, I would give Little Houghton Garage(Stuart) a try..he is on the MGOC recommended list as well.Not the biggest of workshops but he knows what he's doing and won't rip you off,
BTW, you'll need a lift home from the village, so take a mate!
Blue Max

This thread was discussed between 28/04/2003 and 01/05/2003

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