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MG MGF Technical - New Brake pads


At my 36,000 mile service the dealer offered to change the front and rear pads as he suggested that they were 80% worn. I have changed pads before, not on an MGF and i had the help of a Haynes manual. I turned the dealer down, asthey charge too much. I also turned them down on replacing the wipers and renewing indicator bulbs. (These last two jobs took me all of 2 minutes at a labour cost of Zero)

Two Questions

1) Will i be able to change the pads front and back ? are there any unique issues with the F which i should look out for.

2) Which pads should I use as a replacement. I am not racing the car but clearly want excellent performance.

I lied -

3) Would i be better off going to Kwik Fit - with pre purchased pad reccomendation from this site ?


As always, your help will be much appreciated.

Chris
Chris

Chris,
see Robs documents on brake terms.
http://mgf.4mg.com/cgi-bin/framed/1443/mgf_diy.htm
It isn't that difficult. All are standard works as at each other cars.

For performance pads see the archive for EBC green stuff (front only) sources.

Dieter
Dieter Koennecke

Chris, you can now get Greenstuff pads for the rears, you just need to ask around, I believe Mike Satur has some http://www.mikesatur.co.uk

Personally, I have Mintex 1144s on mine front & rear. I don't know quite how much of the improved brakes is down to the pads, as I've also had new discs & braided hoses. I know a few other F'ers that have Mintex pads and swear by them.

I've heard that the Green Stuff ones can be rather dusty.

HTH

Steve.
Steve Childs

Chris,

I have the Greenstuff pads ... vast improvement over standards. Can't comment on the Mintex ... supposed to be less forgiving on the discs. Dust is not an issue with the Greenstuffs. The latest Greenstuffs (Version4 I think) are supposed to be even better.

Gaz
Gaz

Chris,

Changed to Greenstuff a few weeks ago and a huge improvement in braking. Can't recommend them enough

John
John

How difficult is it to change to pads myself?? Are there any instructions I can find at certain websites??I am a complete amature when it comes to machanical stuffs.
Andrew

Andrew, if you go back to the second message in this thread you will see a hotlink. Take look....
David


Hi all,

Just me again performing as a "Besserwisser" !
At point 9 when resetting the brakepads , apply 3 notches of handbrake BEFORE pressing the pedal several times . This will also reset the handbrake action to correct level giving some slack in the cables. If the handbrake isnīt at 3 notches when pads are reset the handbrake will be very stiff straight from the first notch !

Regards , Carl.
Carl


Thanks for the fantastic instructions. I have read them through and I'm quite sute this is within my grasp. I am going to find out how much the green stuff pads are. Also: - CAn someone please explain the benefit of braided hoses. How does the manufacture of the hose impact performance ?

Is changing the hoses difficult ?
Chris

Braided hoses,

The main point of braided hoses for the majority of applicatoins is to look good.

The standard rubber hoses incorporate either a nylon cord or steel braid as re-inforcement. This is required to contain the pressure and stop the hoses ballooning out.

In theory the steel braid offers greater strength so higher presseures can be passed through the hose before failiure.

In normal road use there should be no difference, and the rubber hoses should be a ok.

Steel braid is prefered for extreme use as not only can greater pressuere be withstanded by the hose it can operate at higher temperatures as heat can soften the rubber.
Andrew

This thread was discussed between 05/05/2001 and 07/05/2001

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.