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MG MGF Technical - Oh the misery continues
|Right with Project get my MGF thru its MOT bought some new bits last night.|
New Rear Discs
green stuff pads all round
K & N (not quiet MOT related but hey)
Two new rear tyres
Adjustable break pedal.
Master cyclinder strengthening brkt.
So last night the K & N went on.
Changed the rear discs and pads no real probs.
Come to try and swap the fronts over and it would appear the grease monkey that worked on the car previously decided wheel nuts should be as tight as possible.
Damamged one getting it off but I had a spare so no probs.
Come to try and get the locking wheel nut off and it has stripped the inside of the wheel nut key????
So I currently can't get the front wheels off, but more annoyingly won't be able to get the rears off when I get the tyres changed...
So. Is there a BBS approved method for getting the nut off without damaging the stud and hence the hub.
I was thinking about angle grinder as close as I could get and then just brute force with a chisel or something to get it off whilst avoiding damaging the stud??
Also I've got a new exhaust and having insepected the the old nuts anc Cat studs I believe they have now become one.
So was planning on angle grinding the nuts off. Drilling the studs out and replacing with new bolts and cat kit nuts....Is there any probs with doing this????
|For the last item on your list; After grinding ,or better cracking the catalyst nuts there is no need for drilling out the remains of the bolts. They are a (tough!) press fit and can be removed in a vice with the help of a large enough nut.Replace with SS nuts, bolts and washers. If you have access to an electric welder do weld on an extension on the damaged wheel-nut for removal.The heat from the welding will ease the force needed to release the nut. / Carl.|
|I've had this on another car. I got a socket just slightly bigger than the locking nut, hammered it over the nut, put the socket extension bar on it and then took it off.|
Took a bit of getting the locking nut back out of the socket once it was off but well worth it.
Only took 5mins.
|DONT hit the studs in the cat or you will shatter the matrix and have to by a new cat.|
As long as the wheel nuts themselves are not terminally bent then you should contact Rover and get yourself a new wheel nut key (£20)
|No handy welder unfortunatly.....|
Have been trawling thru the archive and looks like Dave's advice seem the way to go.....
Just hope i don't damage the socket....
Now where can I get a spare key for the other locking wheel nuts...
MG dealers are a little thin on the ground.
|Also if you are using the bog standard wheel iron then treat yourself to either a good 1/2inch drive socket and 2' breaker bar, or an extendable wheel wrench.|
|Most places that used to stock Rovers still have a parts dealership and service centre, and they will have the locking wheel nut keys on the shelf|
Have a lovely torque wrench and decent socket set......Made pretty short work of the locking key.....
So whats you recommendation for getting the studs off the cat???
I was going to drill em after cutting the thread away with the angle??
|They will be bloody hard work to drill as they get work/heat hardned, they can be pressed out in a vice, but you may end up drilling them out anyway.|
If you can get a dremmel on the nuts you can cut slots into them without damaging the underlying threads, then get a wrench on them. Actually cutting the end off with an angle grinder did for me on one of them, but there are at least two which are in tricky positions, but some useful PO had changed the studs for bolts, so I didn't have to do any further work except finding simmiler bolts (it now has some imperal bolts from the midget suspension)
|To remove the Cat nuts, upgrade the tool box with a Snap-On nut splitter. This has a 'C' shaped clamp giving much easier access than the other splitters on the market. Spare cutters are also available.|
|Oh its sooooo much fun....|
Borrowed a nut splitter from work but couldn't get it to work. Just kept slipping off as the buts are corroded to buggery.
So angle grinder it was.....
Managed to get the heads off and the remains of the exhaust....
Thou having bought a titanium headed drill bit I couldn't get any leverage on the reminants....
Of course taking the wheel off would have solved this but couldn't as the lock nut key is buggered (due to arrive today)
So another trip to B & Q for a smaller drill bit as I think that'll help and fingers crossed...
As an alternative how easy is it to drop the whole exhaust if I can't get decent enough access???
Or is this just a whole new can of frogs?
And which daft **** decided to put the studs on the cat not on the exhaust???
This thread was discussed between 28/03/2006 and 29/03/2006
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