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MG MGF Technical - Oil
On sudden braking the oil light flashes on for a second. I guess that the car is running short of oil it also sounds a bit husky. What is the best oil to top it up with ? |
Charlotte |
>>What is the best oil to top it up with ? << Whatever is in there already - you may have to phone the garage that last serviced it to ask. If you can't find out, and the oil level is really this low then consider changing the oil and filter. Mobil 1 is the usual recommendation (or equivalent synthetic) - but if your car is using oil in quantity, then you need to find something cheaper. If it's not an oil-level problem then get the car seen to quickly. Steve |
Steve |
Check out the Manual, it will tell you what type of oil to top up with.... Haven't you checked on the dip-stick to see if it is low? Steve. |
Steve |
Not had a chance to check the oil yet because I only noticed it this morning when I went from 120mph to 30 in about three feet as I noticed the first of many gatso on the A3. I just phoned the dealer - they use 10/40 Shell Helix semi synthetic but said that it really didn't matter what 10/40 I topped it up with even if I used mineral because they are designed to mix. |
Charlotte |
..nice one ;c)) |
Steve |
My dealer uses Shell Helix - is this a Rover approved oil for dealers to use? they were mortified whn i brought my own Mobil 1 -matt M66 MAT |
matt |
Same one as my dealer used when he did teh 60K service. Its probably the cheapest branded oil around, that's why its used - or is that me just being synical ;) I would get the oil topped up ASAP, out of interest, have you noticed what the oil temp gauge usually goes up to? Steve. |
Steve Childs |
If you are going to change oil and filter consider fully synthetic oil 5W40 since using it, especially in cold weather engine revs smoother because oil is thinner also gives a slight reduction in full consumption. Marten. |
marten |
Matt, Looking in the MG owners' manual, it looks like they recommend must about every brand of oil except Masola. Cheers Patrick |
Patrick |
Dear Charlotte I look at the dipstick onece a week and I use Castral GTX Magnatec 10w40 to top up the MGF When I get the MG serviced I ask for Mobil 1. Then after 4,000 miles I change my oil and filter I use Castral GTX Magnatec and Unipart Premium oil Filter GFE26. 12.000 miles dealers serviced MG Mobil 1 16.000 miles I change oil & filter under £20 20.000 miles I change oil & filter under £20 24.000 miles dealers serviced MG Mobil 1 Or change it at 6.000 miles in-between services. The reason I change my oil at frequent intervals is because I'v got to look after my little engine. I use my MGF a lot for work and remember who would Drive a £20.000 sports car 12.000 miles with out Changing there oil at least once in-between services. Hugss.... Natasha........ |
Natasha |
LOL, that's Patrick live :) Patrick, you are right with the manual recommendation. The API class for the MGF is 'SH', meaning that all oils for cars manufactured between 1993 up to 1996 are good enough. Dunno the class for 'Mazola', but guess it's good for fried chicken, but bad for good salads. ;) (Rosi knows..) Anyway, I prefer sythetic oil of low density (high viscosity) to keep the engine oil temperatur low and prevent the valves from cracked oil derivates. Currently I go with 0W30 full synthetic ... but don't know the brand. oil change sequence ... Mmmm, IMO a case of individual circumstances. I guess it's important to change more often if the car does a lot short distance rides. On long distances the temperature of the oil is more constant and each crap from engine starting and moisture gets blown out. --- cut from http://www.mobil1.com -- Formula 0W-30 flows up to seven times faster than conventional oils. This means it provides superior protection for engine parts during cold start-ups. And, it safeguards your engine when it's extremely hot. ---------- Dieter |
Dieter Koennecke |
if you're going for shell helix motor-oil, why go for the semi-synthetic type? why not use shell helix ultra? its fully synthetic, used & recommended by the ferrari formula 1 team. viscosity it 15/50, the same as the shell semi-synthetic oil. & no i don't work for Shell. :) |
Jason |
As natasha suggested i topped up wit Castrol magnatec. Car certainly soundsbetter. I was reminded how completely ineffective the dipstick is on this car. You get a wisp of oil starting about halfway up the damm thing. i once had an Alfa which had an excellent device fitted to it. Actually my B gives a more accurate measure with the dipstick - anyone else sffer similarily or have i left myself open to some female claptrap abuse from Dieter ? Picking up on someones helpful suggestion: next time I go to France I'm going to pick up a a load of Mobil 1 and drop this in with dealer at the next service. i wonder if, I can buy a higher qualiy filter and if it would improve engine wear ? |
charlotte |
Hi 'sisters' ;) Don't worry about your measurent skills. IMO it's nearly impossible to getting any useful level accuracy from that stick. , .. without ... *dry stick means empty, no more oil in the sump* :) Yes, a higher quality filter is availiable. But not any evidence on improving engine wear. Carl reported about it the other year (See the MGF Technical archive). I slightly recall it was from Pipercross (No. OF109 ?). Availiable at Demon Tweecs. Regards Dieter |
Dieter Koennecke |
Charlotte Your last entry has convinced me that this thread is a wind up! Dieter never talks 'clap trap' and he certainly isn't anti female (Rosi his wife would kill him if he was). Occasionally Dieter uses a word that is perhaps not the correct word for the sentence but I wish I could speak and write German as well as he manages in English. So I am sorry you find his offerings to this BBS as 'Clap Trap' BUT I bet he can read a dip stick - To continue the wind up. Ted |
Ted Newman |
back on topic - I've found that the dipstick needs removing, wiping clean, replacing, then removing again, and again, and on the third go you should get a clear and accurate oil level reading. I suspect the dipstick tube inside the engine is too long and retains oil due to capillary action which gives the misleading readings. HTH |
David |
Er... is there something wrong with my car then? I seem to get an accurate reading straight away, without even bothering to clean the stick. At least, all the removal/replacing and wiping as recommended makes no difference. Typical, isn't it? get concerned when part of the F is working properly. :-) E |
Ed Clarke |
Me (ignoramus) again (everyone groans), Sort of on-thread, two questions: 1. Is there an optimum mileage to change from bog-standard-type oil to Mobil 1 or similar? Didn't I read somewhere that you should wait for the engine to be fully run in? What's going on then - does a new engine have to scrape off all the rough edges or something?!?. 2. Also, following Natasha's comments on oil changing frequency, what does everyone else think about changing the oil more often than 12K. I have a 2001 F and the recommended service interval is now 15K - is that too long? I want this car to last, so I'd be quite happy to do changes every 7500 if that's what's best. D |
David Bainbridge |
It has been suggested that you wait until at least 10 to 15 thousand miles on the clock before changing to Mobil-1. Yes the running-in or polishing of the moving bits takes a while and Mobil-1 is so good it takes even longer to get the engine to 'perfect' condition. Ted |
Ted Newman |
Thanks for that, Ted. Now any opinions on my second question anyone?: 2. Also, following Natasha's comments on oil changing frequency, what does everyone else think about changing the oil more often than 12K. I have a 2001 F and the recommended service interval is now 15K - is that too long? I want this car to last, so I'd be quite happy to do changes every 7500 if that's what's best. |
David Bainbridge |
It all depends on how you do the mileage - lots of short stop and starts then YES change more often but if you do only nice long runs it probably wont need it BUT at the end of the day it will not harm the car to change the oil more often - might hurt your pocket! Ted |
Ted Newman |
Hi David You say you've got a new 2001 f if so you must have Some money ie: Spend Some !!!!! Maintenance love Maintenance. I would change it every 5.000 miles that,s after the first 15.000 rover service. 20.000 change oil & filter. 25.000 change oil & filter. 30.000 rover service. And so on. David in my youth i was in the army and that's were I had it drummed in to me. Hugss...... Natasha |
Natasha |
David, Natasha is absolutely correct. I changed the oil and filter on my Fiat Abarth at 3000 miles between the 6000 mile Dealer changes, and at 100,000 miles, the car never burnt any oil/no blue smoke, never needed topping up, and went like stink. 3000 miles is a bit too often on the F. 6000 on a 12,000 service interval, or at 5 & 10,000 on a 15,000 service interval sounds more reasonable. I have always considered the optimum life of oil to be approx 6,000 miles. However, as Ted says, it is greatly affected by the type of driving you do (short journeys where choke is on a lot can cause "wash down" of excess fuel in the pots into the oil). Engine bearings don't destroy oil, its the crushing action of cam/follower that pulverises the molecules, destroying their lubricating properties. Changing the oil less frequently (ie per the service schedule) is not necessarily bad, but changing it more frequently is certainly "less bad". As its an oil related issue, you don't necessarily have to change the filter at these intermediate oil changes, just dump the oil oil, and freshen it up. This makes it a very quick job to do, and less messy than a filter change. Obviously there is a cost issue involved, and this increases with the more "fancy" oil you may choose to use. Paul |
Paul Lane |
Hi, Natasha, I'm just curious, why do you use Mobil 1 when the car is serviced, and then Magnatec when you top up or do your own changes? Both oils are excellent, but why use two different types? I can't remember the part numbers, but are you using the more expensive higher-quality oil filter? When I asked about one I was told it wasn't available, I guess I should be more pushy. By the way Jason, neither Mobil 1 nor Shell Helix Ultra are used in the McLaren and Ferrari F1 cars, not quite in the composition we can buy anyway. Mobil say that their Motorsport 5W-50 is closest to the F1 oil. All these oils are first class, and won't harm anything. Well, there is the environment, I suppose. Regards, Kes. |
Kes |
Thanks for the advice folks, David |
David Bainbridge |
>>>>Its probably the cheapest branded oil around>>>> It's not the cheapest!! Rog |
Roger Parker |
Having just rebuilt a VVC head for a distressed owner I discovered excessive wear in the cam followers and worn oil seal with signs of oil burning, the owner said he had always used Mobil 1,mileage was 56k. My personal recommendations would be a semi-synthetic every 6k, Natasha you know how these self services ruin your nails. |
Mike |
Hi All Kes after reading mikes comments I'm going to use Castral GTX Magnatec the semi-synthetic oil and only Top up with the rest of my Mobil 1 that I have left. One can fits on top of the water container under the Bonnet and my boyfrend got the oil filters from the Same outlets that the auto trade do's. Mike you are all way's re-building MG heads I remember You telling me about the wear of that MGF engine. My nails Yes's I all ways use rubber gloves and put The old mans overalls on well i don't want to snag my Stockings now do I......... Hugss.... Natasha. |
Natasha |
Natasha, how was the Hols in France ? Did you get chance to look at any heads while you were there? Did you get down to Le Mans??? Have you swapped the rubber for leather now? Far better for driving in;) See you when you need a service then? Mike. |
mike |
<<Have you swapped the rubber for leather now? Far better for driving in;) See you when you need a service then?>> The mind boggles! Bruce |
Bruce Caldwell |
This thread was discussed between 24/08/2001 and 12/09/2001
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