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MG MGF Technical - Oil Change - How?

Thanks for the advice on which oil to use, any special instructions on diy oil/filter change?



Carl preferred a Pipercross Filter.
No idea if its really better
#114 6.95 UKP from demon tweeks (i.e.)
Dieter Koennecke

Extremely simple operation with the filter being exactly the same spec as the other K series engines.

Note that since the filter is screwed 'side on' use of a branded filter is advised. It may be possible that non branded ones could allow drain back of oil so that on startup there is an extended period of time whilst oil pressure fills the filter and provides oil for the rotating engine parts. This is very familiar to later MGB owners.

Access is easy with the car raised and secured using stands. The filter is nearest the drivers (RHD cars) side as is the sump drain. Note that it is best to drain oil when hot as when more fluid it scavenges out more impurities. Be aware that used engine oil contains some nasty constituents and exposure to skin does cause some people problems.

I always use the latex gloves which are readily available, (not always on the national health!!) and to help protect you from heat get a larger size of latex glove which can be worn over a normal glove which will insulate your hand from the heat.

Removal of the old filter is on paper simple and if a sensible tightening had been done on the current one then you will be able to remove this possibly with hand pressure (more so if you have my sort of 'mole grip hands') However I find that many filters seem to have the torque that is applied to drive shaft nuts! These need a specific tool to enable removal and even then I sometimes find I have to resort to a tool AND a sturdy screwdriver through the filter body to add to leverage to break the seal!!

Before fitting the new filter ensure that the seal is correctly seated in the pressed groove and lightly lubricate the outer face of this seal with clean engine oil. Wipe over the oil filter housing where the seal mates against to ensure no debris will cause leaks. Spin on the new filter until the seal has engaged, I then like to undo it slightly to confirm a smooth seal contact before tightening up. Hand tight plus a final hand nip is more than enough as it tightens up over time and you do have to get the damn thing off again.

Remember to lower the car onto a flat surface before refilling with oil and once you have filled to or near the upper level run the engine for a minute of so to check for leaks from the new filter and for the filter to fill up. Let the engine settle for 5 minutes after switching off before rechecking the levles and topping to the full mark.

Roger Parker

I've done 3 oil changes on my F now - at intervening 6k points.
You can get the filter off without raising the car but as Rog. says may need a tool if it's tight.
John Thomas

Umm, mucking about with old oil and stuff doesn't seem too apealing to me. And you have the aggro of getting rid of the oil.

I thought Halfords or Kwikfit or someone do the job for about a tenner - or is that wisful thinking?


So you'd trust your beloved F to Halfords or Quickfit? Each to their own I suppose.....
David Smith

If you can find someone who can be trusted to do the job and not charge more than a tenner on top of the parts to do the job then go ahead - give me a call!!!

Dead simple and done in no time at all. With several legal and eco friendly routes to recylce the waste oil very locally thats not a problem either.

Roger Parker

This thread was discussed between 12/10/1999 and 17/10/1999

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.