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MG MGF Technical - Open TF headlight ?
When changing a sidelight bulb on my TF, I pushed accidentally the little circular lens inside the headlight assembly. So now, this part is loose and is moving inside, behind the glass. Does someone now if the headlight assembly can be opened (as it can be done for the F headlight) ?? BTW, again a great design and great quality from MGR :-( (but design can be even worse : on the Golf it's impossible to change a headlight bulb without dismantling half of the car !) |
Fabrice |
Hi Fabrice Don't know about the TF but on the F its says on a sticker on the headlights - MADE IN BELGIUM :-) Regards Ted |
Ted Newman |
That could explain some things ;o) |
Fabrice |
Easy answer Fabrice, but you won't like it - because it's no, you can't disassemble a TF headlamp that easily. The perspex cover is bonded to the headlamp body. Gerry has shown that it is possible to split the lamp into its component parts - but not easy. I would suggest that your best course of action is to remove the headlamp assembly from the car, carefully 'fish' for the loose trim ring, and attempt to re-bond with the perspex etc in situ. Disassembly is actually very straightforward, and almost identical to the MGF head lamp assembly (with the exception that there is no glass to remove)... Hopefully these MGF instructions will provide some useful pointers http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/lighting/F_lamp_disassemble.htm |
Rob Bell |
Thanks Rob ! Is it mandatory to remove the bumper ? When I painted in black the reflectors of my previous F, I remember that removing and refitting the headlights was possible with the bumper in situ... Do the projector lights completely come off ? (I mean leaving a hole through which I could access the inside of the assembly) |
Fabrice |
Fabrice - Dieter reckons that it is possible to remove the head lights without removing the bumper on an MGF - and I would presume that a TF would be the same. The reason for removing the bumper is to access a retaining bolt under the light unit that is hidden by the bumper. You can see it clearly here - http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/headlamp_replacement/images/DSC00655.jpg If you peel the wheel liner out of the way, you just might be able to make enough room to get a stubby screw driver in there. But to be honest, it would probably be easier to remove the bumper! When you've got the head light out, the projectors are mounted on a 'raft' that allows you to alter beam direction - rather like that found on the F. In fact, the 'raft' is removed in exactly the same way as the F headlight bowls - and once removed, gives you a nice hole through which you can attempt to grab the errant trim. Good luck |
Rob Bell |
Ooops, another none finished .. http://www.mgfcar.de/headlamps/index.htm No idea whether it works equal at the TF. |
Dieter |
I've already removed F's headlights without taking the bumper off, that's easy. Refitting is easy too, but one has to be careful with the rubber seal between headlight and bumper. Thanks for the tip about the "raft" ! |
Fabrice |
I've done it this w-e... There are 4 screws (not 3) that holds the TF headlights to the frame, so the bumper has to be removed to gain access to this screws. I could get the "errant trim" out, but then, there was no possibility of glueing it back. Rob, I could not see how to dismantle something inside (apart from the bulbs) in order to get an access hole ?? I confirm there is no possibility to remove the perspex cover, it's like glued... Well, it may possibly to be done with infinity of patience and carefulness, thin flat screwdrivers, and at least 4-5 hours to go... (unless a miracle product to dissolve the bonding seal ??). I think the normal behaviour of 99% people is to give up ! BTW, Ted, the TF headlights units are marked "made in UK" ;o) |
Fabrice |
If you've the projectors, then you've stripped the lamps down as far as they'll go before you start getting 'destructive'. What I'd suggest is to apply glue to the back of the silver ring trim, put it back into the lamp casing, invert the lamp so the ring can rest back onto the black casing. If you want to place a load on it, then probably the thing to do is to put a thin piece of wood, longer than the diameter of the ring, through the projector apperture. Then tie a piece of string to it, and to the other end of the string, hang a weight, so gravity will pull the trim onto the headlamp housing. Choose your adhesive wisely: it'll get pretty hot there next to the projector housing, so I'd recommend going for an epoxy resin which tends to be very temperature stable. Hopefully you can figure out what I am saying. This is the classic case of a picture being able to tell a story far more efficiently than words!!! Good luck |
Rob Bell |
If you don't want to wait for hours while epoxy cures Permabond 820 will cope with 200 degrees C and IS superglue. RS stock it. |
Charles |
Not tried it - any good Charles? :o) |
Rob Bell |
You bet,we use it down oil wells at up 180 degrees and regularly rebake it during testing no failure of a very rigid bond yet - first class. |
Charles |
Thanks for your advices. The loose trim is not one of the silver rings, but a little (approx 1cm diam) transparent plastic lens that covers the bulb of the "sidelight", at the extreme top inside the casing. This little lens is normally held in place by 3 plastic "clips". One of them is broken. I think it's nealy impossible to glue it without having access with my fingers to the place this lens has to be. |
Fabrice |
This thread was discussed between 21/04/2006 and 24/04/2006
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