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MG MGF Technical - Pads & Discs

My F is due to go in for it's 2 year service on Monday, and my front brake pads need replacing.

Having read many previous threads on brake pads, I decided to go out and buy some EBC green stuff to replace the pads. Anyway, MGR want £50 + VAT to change the pads that I provide, which I reckon is a bit pricey, so I thought I'd do them myself tommorrow instead.

I've done minor DIY on previous cars, but never looked at brakes before. I've got a set of very helpfull instructions from Januarys "Enjoying MG", but need to ask a couple of questions:

1) Is it possible / sensible to replace the pads with the car on the ground. If not, can someone tell me where the jack points are, and where to place axle stands?

2) I've looked at the discs, and there are no visible marks / warping on the outer side. There is a clear distinction between the area where the pad does & doesn't touch the disc, and the wear is obvious. It's difficult to measure the amount of wear on the disc, but seeing as the existing pads are the original ones, and they're now finished at around 14k miles, is it safe to assume that the disc wear will not be excessive?

Thanks in advance
Nigel
Nigel Hannam

Nigel,

I changed my pads by just using the car's jack. The only time to need something more substantial is when you want to work under the car. Hopefully you will not need to get any part of your body under the car when changing the pads.

Before jacking up the car remember to loosen the wheel nuts. It is a bugger to do when the wheels are off the ground!

The jacking point is in the manual (and mine is in the car at home...). Once you get the jack out then the jacking points are a tad obvious on the seam that runs down the underside of the car.

Your discs should be Ok for at least 30k miles but clearly I can't see yours!

Remember when you have changed the pads the little bugers take a few hundred miles to bed in and that initially the new pads will feel (and probably are) very much less effective than the old ones.

A great morning down here for DiY on motor hope it is OK up there.

Cheers and good luck

Patrick
Patrick

Cheers Patrick,

It's been raining on and off up hear this morning.

Hoping to get it done this afternoon, but then there's always tommorrow.

Nigel
Nigel Hannam

Put something under the car when it's jacked up. I once had a jack collapse when I was changing pads in an old car of mine, and the brake disc was saved by the wheel I'd put under the front axle to catch the car when it fell. Now I use an axle stand (much more sensible, and not too expensive to buy).

Leigh
Leigh


Dear all,

When pushing back the pistons is a special tool required or can a substantial screwdriver be used?

It's a bit of a bugger to find out when the wheel is off and the pads are out......I speak from previous experience with Saab's

Tim
Tim

Easy- a substantial screw driver would do the job Tim.

See http://www.mgf.4mg.com/front_pad.htm for more detail.
Rob Bell

Have changed the pads on my 97 VVC using the jack that came with the car. The only problem I encountered was pushing the pistons back to enable space for the new pads. After trying various levers I discovered that if you twist the piston in the caliper (can't remember which way) it was done very easily by hand..
Jon

The front caliper pistons push in, the rears screw in as you say Jon. Caught me out too when I first set out to do this little job. ;o)

http://www.mgf.4mg.com/MGF_diy.htm
Rob Bell

Dont go too hard with the screwdriver on the pistons - make sure the caliper is cleaned and that all pins etc slide easily

Dont forget to pump the brake pedal before you drive off so the pads reset into the correct position for braking
tony

This thread was discussed between 08/03/2002 and 13/03/2002

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