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MG MGF Technical - poor starting

This looks like a common theme for MGFs. I have only had mine for a few weeks (97P VVC) and it doesn't like starting in this cold weather. I have fitted a new battery and Rover serviced the car doing a 'diagnostic test' that showed nothing, but replacing the HT leads for good measure(they put the Rover ones on before I could ask for better ones!).

Theres stacks of go in the battery, the engine turns over for a couple of seconds, coughs a bit like its going to start, then goes back to turning over again. I have to repeat this till it eventually fires up. There is a strong smell of petrol at the back of the car, so I think its flooding.

The RAC got me going by removing the fuel pump fuse (the second one in the box - 15A?), turning the engine over a few times and then pushing the fuse back in. Is there a better fix? Any ideas out there?

James
James

James,

Question, did you have the throttle open , closed, part open, all of the above ?

Mike
Mike

I start with nothing, but I have found the best chance of starting seems to be about 1/5th throttle - ie a light touch, no movement/pumping the pedal.
James

first place to start is the spark plugs - remove and check gaps / condition
tony

Also - check air filter box clips are done up properly - you can check this by removing rear (boot) grille) and just have a quick look for any hoses that may have disconected in the inlet area!
tony

As with most modern cars you should need no throttle to start it. It's designed to start without the throttle being pressed.

But to try and answer your question...
You've done what I'd first suggest and change battery and leads. There's fuel getting in there. Must, I think, be a plug or MEMS/sensor problem.

Might be time to change plugs? They're cheap.
As Roger P has oft said, changing the plugs before 60k miles does help the general running of the car.

If that fails, it may be a faulty sensor eg. If the temp sensor is saying it's warm and is not "broken" then the car will struggle to start. I'm not sure if that would be picked up in a basic check by the garage. Get them to use testbook to check the temp sensor readings when the car is cold. Or use the hot water and voltmeter method.

Hope this helps.

P.
Paul Nothard

James,

I have had a similar problem during the Christmas break with my P plate 97VVC. After two visits to the dealers the problem turned out to be the temperature sensor. The first visit they passed the car clear after the test book check, and I still had problems.

Check the basics and if that doens suggestion.

Good Luck

Frank
Frank

Some have also suggested a blast of WD40 around the coils (as these are directly beneath the boot lid vents an inclined to get damp) can help. But I'd go for the plugs if I were you. Presuming the car's been serviced as per instructions, they'll be way past their best.

E
Ed Clarke

I have both an MGF and a 200Vi (VVC engine) with the same problem. As has been suggested it is usually the 2 coils that are bolted on the rear of the engine. One or other of them gets damp and the car then trys to start on 3, 2, or even 1 cylinder. WD40 usually works but you need to keep applying it regularly.
Andy Cadman

Have had the same problem with my MGF VVC (P reg). Coil & HT leads replaced twice, ECU sealed. All done under warranty. Warranty expired last year and problem has re surfaced under damp conditions. HELP!!!
Jon

At VVC cars it's possible that the wiring beside the plugs are wrong placed.

Can't recall details currently, but wasn't there anything with 'Leads not right placed in the clips and as well a to sharp bend ?

The coil wiring loop adjacent to the rear of cam belt cover can be fouled by the
upper engine cover on fitment. In isolated instances this has caused a short circuit
resulting in misfire.

Rog ?

Rgds
Dieter
Dieter Koennecke

It's really likey to be plugs for a lot of people - the OEM items simply do not last as long as MGR say they do. What is it, 5 years/60K miles they recommend? I recall Rog P saying the most you can really expect from them is 30K miles.

I think (have to check) that fully depressing the throttle has the same effect as disconnecting the fuel pump. Once you've had three or four goes at starting unsuccessfully it's much less likely to fire until some fuel has drained from the chambers.

E
Ed Clarke

This thread was discussed between 02/01/2002 and 07/01/2002

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