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MG MGF Technical - Replacing the radiator
With signs of my 1996 radiator finally giving up, and weeping (not me - the rad!), I'm looking at replacing the radiator. The service manual says that you have to remove the front bumper/grill etc, and the bonnet-locking plate that is across the top of the rad. Is it really necessary to remove the bumper? Anyone know? Tony |
Tony Thompson |
If you are replacing the radiator have you thought about getting an uprated one. Mike Satur does a larger capacity Rad or the TF rad fits and is of better quality IMO. I do think the bumper has to come off but this in itself is not difficult, just the bolts behind undo the screws at the wheel arch flares (3 each side) one is recessed deep inside the arch close to the rear of the headlamp and remove the screws across the top of the bumper, disconnect fog light wires if you have them and lift bumper off. Locking the wheels in different directions gives better access to the wheel arch screws when removing. |
Chris Catchpole |
And the indicators _DONT_ lever out, they pop out under their own steam when you push the clip back |
Will Munns |
Tony I changed the radiator on my 97'F a couple of weeks ago. I did not remove the bumper. All you need to do is remove the bonnet latch plate (the bit across the top of the radiator that the bonnet fastens to whatever its called!). This is easy enough apart from the two bolts which fasten the centre support. This is really a two person job, one to reach up from underneath and the other to hold a spanner on the top. Once the plate has been removed access to the radiator is fairly good. The only other awkward bit is removing the bottom hose. I un-bolted the fan assembly and removed it to make more room. Other than that it is quite easy. Good luck and don't forget to be very thorough with regard to bleeding the coolant system. Ross. |
R Longmore |
Might be easier to remove the bumper first - and it is certainly not difficult (I did this last weekend to recondition my car's headlamps) - Tim Woolcott's instructions are here: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/DIY/headlamp_replacement/instructions.htm |
Rob Bell |
Thanks guys, I had a feeling that it could be done as Ross says, but if removing the bumper is as easy as has been said above( I sometimes doubt the manual's "just remove these 5 screws....." etc ) then I guess that makes it a one man job & fairly straight forward. Chris: One step ahead - I ordered the MS uprated one earlier this morning so hopefully it will here by Monday at the latest. Ta folks Tony |
Tony Thompson |
Mate, go for removing the bumper at first and just have additional rust protection to all availiable sections (Hammerite, or similar) |
Dieter K. @ work? |
Good idea, Dieter |
Tony Thompson |
Tony, Are you changing the coolant pipes at the same time, while draining the system you might as well make the most of it and replace as much as possible. I had my rad and under pipes replaced last year and I managed to make a hole in the pipes with a key so changed in the nick of time. As mentioned I think you can do the radiator change without removing the bumper but as dieter says make the most of it and do some rust protection. Tom |
Tom Randell |
Tom, A valid point, but I changed the pipes last year ! But how did you manage "to make a hole in the pipes with a key" ? Tony |
Tony Thompson |
"But how did you manage "to make a hole in the pipes with a key" Once the pipes where off the only relative sharp object I could find was the car keys so thought I would see how close the pipes where to rusting through which as it turned out was quite close. Tom |
Tom Randell@work |
This thread was discussed between 27/02/2004 and 01/03/2004
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