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MG MGF Technical - Ride height after lowering
|Another query: just installed lowering pins ( as the complete knuckles are no longer available) and after pumping it back up to a tad over 400psi, the front is at 340mm, but the rear is at 310mm!|
This is after 48 hrs and driving a good 50 miles or so.
Any ideas as to why the rear remains too low?
( job done using home made bottle jack pump. The roller foot joints were in good nick for a 1996 VVC, although I couldn't safely install the top green clip on the rubber gaiter as I was worried aboiut tearing the rubber. Instead I have tied it oiff with thick fishing line.....will need to watch this closely though)
all part of the slippery slope of K&N, brake servo bracket, various polybushes etc
|Ride height is measured using the FRONT wheels only.|
As the hydragas is linked front to rear each side, if the front measure is correct the rear should be to!. :o)
|G. M Leonard|
|Indeed, but I was always under the impression rear ride height was approx 5mm less than the front (from Dieters website)|
Anyhow, it seems to be settled at this level, the knuckles seem to be seated ok ( B*&ch of a job at the rear) so off for re-tracking tomorrow.
Unfortunately NZ kerbs locally tend to discourage fitting a splitter, so for now it is essential stuff only ( like a new rear silencer )
An aside on tyres: saw a car locally with 195/50 all round on 15" rims!!!(in Whangarei)
I do have a pair of GS-D3 in the garage.....is there a major downside to this setup? Less traction with narrower tyres at the rear?? I currently have 195/50 front, 205/55 rear
|Mine is 340 at front. Have never measured the rear in 4 years as the front is the important one and have not had a problem. I also have lowering knuckles, Poly bushes everywhere and AVO adjustable shocks, plus brake servo bracket, grooved front and rear rotors, competition pads, Taipan cold air induction, 52mm TB, SS exhaust,slick shift kit with bell crank assembly and for track days Bridgestone RE55's.|
|As our club champion who is much faster than me uses 195/55 front and 205/50 rear I changed from 205/50 all round and I found that the car is much easier to control in turns.|
|I am just about to pump up mgf hydrolastic , the measurement at front is meant to be 368 +/- 10 mm from hub centre to bottom wheel arch - Rear 5mm lower.|
My wifes is at 310 at the moment - 368 seems to be too high.
butthat's the dimension from the MG Rover maintenance CD
|@Charles: just to be sure, you did re-use the washers (controlling the height and wheel specific, so don't mix them up), did you?|
|Indeed I did ( 3 out of 4! at first....)|
One corner at a time, the rears are more awkward and one roller kept popping out. I managed to wrestle it in & realised the washer was still on the floor. Out again, a bit of cursing and it is back in place.
However, I will be keeping a close watch on the gaiters since I did not replace the green clip (as the upper part of the gaiter sits so low once a shortened knuckle is in place), and I may use thin wire as suggested by Carl.
And, after all that, it seems as if a quick hacksaw/file job on the alloy piston!!! (again, quick, assuming you can get them out I suppose.)
Tracking still awaited, but due to wrok this week I have mostly been driving a 1989 Toyota Townace LD "turbo" diesel
|better to pump her long at first going over the rover recommended hight.|
then let her down gently taking a small amount of fluid from her at a time. this gets ride of air locks.
then leave her over night.
then do final adjustments, find a ride that your both comfortable with.
don't listen to others get it right for your self.
This thread was discussed between 28/08/2006 and 04/09/2006
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