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MG MGF Technical - Slipping Clutch

Hi all,

first time here. Aussie98MGF from Down Under.

Just bought a MGF 98' for a steal.
Knew that clutch needs fixing and I am prepared to fix.

Goes into gear OK, When letting clutch out I need to use high revs to make the car move very slowley.
Gearbox does not clunk and is easy to change gears.

Is this a problem with maybe a need to bleed the hydraulic clutch system? (hoping)

Maybe the clutch pressure plate is cactus?

Any help with this is appreciated.

Also if needed, has anyone got the instructions for replacing the clutch.

Thanks in advance.
B kRT

Hi,

any takers on this clutch problem?

B kRT

Hi B

Is the clutch slipping all the time ?
M L Dippenaar

To be honest, I just bought the car home yesterday on a trailer and have only driven it up and down the drive way. I haven't taken it on the road as yet as it is not registered.

The clutch appears to be slipping as I have to rev it somewhat to get movement. Also the pedal needs to come out most of the way for the clutch to grab.

The gears change OK and do not grind.

Branko

My bet is that the friction plate is worn out.
Jon

Sounds like a new clutch is needed. Mine went in the F at about 120,000kms. Cost about $NZ500 plus labour as I recall. I do not do stuff like this personally, but I think that you need to drop the engine out to get at the clutch. Not something for anyone but a very clued up DIYer to do. I think you would need to bleed the cooling system as well.

Search the archive and you should be able to get a lot of information on this.
Neil Courtney

I've had a look at the achives and could not find specifics.

Some say you need to drop the engine and gearbox and others say you only need to drop the gearbox and leave engine intact.

I am wtg on a cd workshop manual that will hopefully have some info about this.

What I needto know is how high to jack the car so I can get the box out.

Branko

Hi B

My clutch takes right at the top so even if you slightly depress the pedal it will slip
Whats your milege? If you have long legs like me (6'2") you will have to learn to let the clutch out and make sure your knee does not hook under steering wheel hope its not your clutch
Regards Mike
M L Dippenaar

Hi Mike,

It's got about 129K and probably needs one anyway.
Yesterday I tried to go up the drive and it seems that I had to do high revs for little movement.
When I get the dash back together (fixing broken cowl lugs) I will do a discreet road test and get more feel on it.

Rang a mob here and they said $1000 for parts. Then rang another one and they say $214. Now thats my price!
Do you know of a good and cheap (he laughs) clutch kit supplier?

And yep, I too have long legs.
Branko

Hi Branko,
Have a look on the net, Its some time cheaper to import spares from England than to buy local .Have a look at Brown and gammon or Mike Satur and compare prices before you just buy. I have ordered a few thing and they get here quicker than if I buy local(everthing has to come from the east if you live in Perth)
Any way good luck with the MGF its a stange car you either love em or hate them they are tempermental, suffer from HGF badly build etc but I would not change it for the world

Hope you get to enjoy it soon the great to drive

Regards Mike D
M L Dippenaar

Hey Branko,

This sounds like the release arm problem to me..
.... pretty much free to fix!

--the clutch arm, bearing and cable get seized with age.. just needs a good oiling to fix.

Remove the engine cover (under the soft top carpet).

If you look down the side of the engine (nearside in England) you should see the top to the clutch arm.

Cover this with a load of oil, and some WD40 for good measure and get someone to depress the clutch a few times whilst you do it.

Repeat for a few days and you're laughing.

Good luck.. Hope its this.

Neil
Neil H

And if you are unlucky and the clutch needs changing it IS possible to take the gearbox out without the engine. The big black airbox at the left wheelhouse has to be removed,the right engine-mount released to get the engine slightly tilted upwards at the right side. Then the box can be removed enough outwards to free the splines out of the clutch. Take care not to apply any bending forces on the gearbox mainshaft.
Best of luck. / Carl.
Carl Blom

For some reason, i posted a rely to your posts using my work PC, but it appears it did not go through.

Dam machines!


Mike,
I'm leaving the possible clutch repair till last. I want to do some bits and pieces to the car before I tackle this job. Still looking for a clutch kit that will work OK and not cost me an arm and a leg.
I absolutley hate forking out big bucks to parts suppliers that mark up their stuff by %1000 sometimes.!!!!! (I well remember the Renault Australia spare part racket in the late 70's.)
Needed one rubber grommet, (10 cents worth, they made it into a kit with some other unwanted stuff and priced it at $10). Not this Bunny.

Neil,

you wrote "the clutch arm, bearing and cable get seized with age", I don't have a cable as the clutch is controlled by a hydraulic system.
Is there a test i can do that will tell me what is the problem? Thanks.

Carl,

Hey, thanks for the tip. When I have to to this job, I can use my engine lifter to hold up the gearbox and then lower it. Have you done it yourself?

Branko.





Branko

Hi Branko,
it was performed several years ago by a garage not far from me. They did not have any instructions or manual at all but managed to do it after some tinkering. / Carl.
Carl Blom

Branko,
Yes, they are hydrualic.

The symptom is normally clutch slip because the release arm doesn't come all the way out.., you could fiddle and see if it is this, but some oil would check and fix just as quickly.


Take the cover off (under the hood).
When you look down the near-side (UK) of the engine you can see the release bearing and release arm, partially covered in a shroud.

You want to get someone to push the clutch in and out (spot where it is) and chuck a load of oil on it.

Hopefully with a good few squirts and depresses, this will ease up.


I used WD40 to loosen mine up, then some Scott Oil (motorcycle chain oil) for a more long term repair.
Worked a treat and saved me a clutch.

Hope it is this.
Neil H

Neil,
Thanks for tips.
I'll have a go at it this weekend. I've got my fingers crossed that it will work. If not ........New clutch job. :(



Branko

This thread was discussed between 12/02/2005 and 15/02/2005

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