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MG MGF Technical - Steps for Waxoyl treatment
Want to waxoyl my car, meant to do it a couple of months ago but will have some time on my hands soon. So want to carry this out while I have some freetime.
Want to treat as much as the car as I can, does anyone have any advice/ procedure etc.
Thanks in advance for anyones help
|S J Sibthorp|
|In this weather you'll b wanting to thin the waxoil first with some white spirit.|
As to where to spray I'm afraid I do not know.
|I drilled holes to get the probe into the sill area. I drilled two holes each side in the very bottom part of the sill where the metal turns under. Careful placing meant that I could get the probe the full length of the sill. I plugged them with rubber grommets afterwards. On a dark car the plugs are not noticeable. I also drilled into the end of the sill assembly from inside the rear wheel arch, and again plugged with rubber grommets.|
The outer sill panel is prone to corrosion on these cars, just like their MGB and midget ancestors, and although this is really just a covering panel, with the real strength of the car being inside that and higher up, the MOT man won't pass it with any holes there. It beats me why Rover couldn't make the panels more rot proof, like the Japanese, and even Fiat, seem to be able to do.
I used Dinitrol 325 which is oilier than Waxoyl and creeps better. Waxoyl at this time of year will be solid before it has hardly left the gun, so won't be likely to get into every crevice. Even Dinitrol will need to be warm for an effective job, and the higher pressure you can spray it at the better. I am fortunate enough to have a large compressor, so can spray from a Schutz pack with some force.
|You can always heat up your waxoyl to make it thinner by placing in a bucket of hot water.|
I would suggest removing the front wheel arch liners (and the rear arch trims) and ensuring you have a good coating around the side repeaters which are a source of corrosion and the very front edge of the front and rear wings where they meet the bumpers.
Ensure you cover up your brake disks and calipers well as the pads can easily be ruined if the wax gets on the disks.
Also avoid getting on any rubber grommets as they can swell as a result of contact with waxoyl.
|I did my TF a couple of years ago. Do it on a warm day as it is hopeless to try when it is chilly. Cover the ground in bits of cardboard or you will have a huge black shadow where you did the job, wear clothes you never intend wearing again including a cap and don't get it in your eyes. White spirit is just the job for washing your face afterwards.|
Handheld garden spayers are brilliant for this job. Use the thick gloopy stuff that comes in a paint tin for the wheel arches and undersides of the sills. As was mentioned, heat the spray waxoil in a bucket of warm water and keep it topped up.
Finally, park it outside someone else's house when you have finished as it will drip like a goodun when it gets warm! And it will stink for ages so go easy on doing the front end as the heater sucks air in from under the front bonnet.
This thread was discussed between 03/10/2007 and 09/10/2007
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