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MG MGF Technical - Timing belt change queries

Hi all. My timing belt is over due for changing ('96 VVC F). Can anyone recommend a garage near Warrington or Leigh to undertake this work. Also following up an earlier thread, any suggestions on the recommended parts manufacturers/suppliers and which parts should be changed along with the belt. Some one suggested changing the water pump at the same time but is it worth going that far?
DW Staniforth

Just doing my head gasket now and naturally am changing the belt at the same time.

The water pump is so easy to change whilst changing the belt so makes no sense to me not to change it as well. Naturally change the tensioner. Must admit my tensioner felt slightly rough when I inspected it although the water pump felt fine but had a large build up of rust and crud on the impellor.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

I'm going to attempt my own cambelt/tensioner/water pump change shortly. I've been advised that "Gates" are good belts but am struggling to find a definitive answer. I've also looked at Contitech (Continental) which are cheaper.

I've heard a few people have losened the cam bolt (which apparently is the most difficult bit) using an 12v impact driver (which I have) - but I can't see how they would do it in the space available. Do people take the engine out to do this :-o
D Mondo

Hi mate

I bought the special tool for locking the cam wheels together, was about 5 quid delivered from E Bay, worth every penny and once installed the cam wheels cam off a treat. However if you are simply changing the belt and water pump why would you think the cam wheels would need to be removed.

The crank pulley has to be removed and that definately needs an impact wrench (air operated) to remove the bolt. If is accessable by removing the offside rear wheel and then removing the felty type material that is behind the road wheel

I bought a kit off ebay for belt and tensioner plus a water pump as well. Plenty of suppliers there with 99% satisfaction ratings.

What year is your car?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Oops, I the meant crank bolt :o

Mine is a 2000 model.

I see here that there isn't much space for an impact wrench or is the photo in this link just from a bottom view ?

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Cambelt

Do you reckon a 12v won't do the job (may losen it a bit at least ???)
D Mondo

Oops, just realised that link is for an Elise !!!

Still handy information in there though.
D Mondo

That is not a photo of an MGF but I think with a quick look it is a caterham 7 The MGF is as I described. Not sure if a 12 impact gun will work. Would be intersting to find out?

With the right tools removing the bolt and pulley is the easy part of the job. The hard part for me was actually putting the belt on, it is very tight! as is tensioning the tensioner.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Access is very easy once that wheel arch cover is removed. To undot the crank bolt I use 3/4 drive socket, big bar, and assistant with strong right foot to hold it on the brakes. Hasn't failed yet.
Paul Walbran

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Why does the crank shaft pulley have to be removed? Does the car need to be on off the ground? I'm wondering whether to do it myself.
DW Staniforth

Paul I tried that method and it failed for me. It relies on the grip of the clutch and mine could not cope with the load required to remove the pulley bolt. An air gun released it without breaking into a sweat!

2 reasons for removal of the pulley the first is to access the timing cover bolts so that can be removed and the second is to see the timing marks for crank/camshaft timing.

I did the job from above with just the drivers side wheel removed. I needed the car off the ground simply to change the oil and filter to change the belt it can be left on the ground.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Bob - I've been expecting that to happen one day, but it hasn't happened yet. No doubt it will. Interestingly, on the K midget we use loctite on the bolt so the clutch has that to contend with as well as the normal grip of the bolt.
Cam belt change on the Misget is one of this weekend's job's, it will probably happen then ...

That bolt is one thing that's much easier to access on the F than the Midget!
Paul Walbran

Without anyone to stand on the brakes - which I didn't think of - I locked the crank shaft by moving the starter to one side and jamming the flywheel ring gear with a large spanner!!

jt
John Thomas

A friend of mine who runs a garage told me that gates belts are original equipment for alot of manufactures,a good motor factors should stock them.
AS Douglas

You dont actaully need to move the starter, the ring gear can be locked at the point where the offside driveshaft enters the gearbox, a large bladed screwdriver can be put into the ring gear to lock the flywheel I have used this method on 25+ MGFs and over 150 Elises and similar number of Caterhams (the scredriver position varies on these).

Dave
Dave Andrews

I like the idea of locking the flywheel and is how I always do this similar task on A and B series engines. However with the MGF I found removing the starter motor was a difficult and annoying task and one I would prefer not to have to do.

So Dave your screwdriver position sounds exactly the ticket, the next time I am under the car I will check where it can be pushed? :) Thanks
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

thanks all i just bought my mgf it has done 42000 miles when should i consider changing the cambelt
b r cowell

Do you have a genuine record of service showing when it was last done?

The MGF cam belt(s) should be done every five years no mater how few miles it has done.

So if you have no service history then assume the worse and change it (them - the VVC has two) ASAP.

Ted
Ted Newman

This thread was discussed between 25/10/2011 and 10/12/2011

MG MGF Technical index

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