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MG MGF Technical - VVC Cam Belt Change

Hi All

I am just collecting the parts required to change the cam belts on my 2001 F (VVC) and have a couple of questions I hope you Guys can help me with. All info much appreciated.

Firstly, the guy at the parts dealer says that only a manual tensioner is listed for the VVC model. Can anyone confirm this please. Just don't really want to get half way through the job and find the new parts are wrong !

Second one is same guy also thinks I might need a Freelander water pump, due to it having an extra mounting lug (presumably for the belt cover ?) Again has anyone found this to be so ? I have a water pump already (from another source) and it is a standard F one.

Finally - I am happy with the procedure for fitting the 'normal' belt, but am struggling to find any decent guidance for changing the VVC belt. Can anyone offer me any advice (or maybe a link).

Sorry for so many questions....
All help much appreciated
Regards
Andy
A Hamlin

Hi Andy,

Regarding the tensioner, interestingly, I thought as you did - that later model VVCs would use an automatic tensioner - but checking the EPC, only the manual tensioner is listed - so it sounds as though your source is indeed correct.

But a visual confirmation is probably worthwhile: the auto tensioner has a black plastic wheel, whereas the manual has a silver metal wheel.

With regard to water pumps, to my knowledge, only one pump is fitted to all models of K-series found fitted in MGFs - so if this is what you have, then no problem.


Regarding the belt change, the belt change procedure is effectly the same as that used on the MPi - albeit with the extra timing belt on the other side of the engine. A good instruction video can be found on the net, made by Paul - for a 1.8i - but gives a good basis on which to work on your VVC with the aid of the workshop manual :o)

Downloadable from here: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/video/cambelt.wmv

Good luck
Rob Bell

About time you changed those belts Andy!!....... you have been threatening this since last year!.

Good luck! :o)
Mark.L

Rob
Thank you for your reply - much appreciated...

Great news on the tensioner then !! Must admit it was a surprise as you rightly say - I thought it would be an auto job..
And on the water pump - brilliant news again !

I have seen the (absolutely brilliant !!) video (cheers !). Am well happy with changing the long belt - am I correct in assuming that it is just a case of removing one sprocket and the short belt with the engine still 'locked' from the long belt change, and then replacing same with a new belt ??

Thanks again...

MARK - Hiya mate - Happy new motor BTW - looks lovely from the pics I have seen. Hope to see it in the flesh if you ever manage to have up a 'meet' when I am NOT working - lol -
you are dead right about doing the belts - I have been driving round cacking myself for the last few weeks - car has done 65k AND is just approaching it's 5th birthday - I have a distinct feeling of 'living on borrowed time' - especially since a guy round the back from us has recently had his cam belt snap (on an F)- owwch !!

Thanks again for the replies guys ;o)
Andy at Work

>> I have seen the (absolutely brilliant !!) video (cheers !). Am well happy with changing the long belt - am I correct in assuming that it is just a case of removing one sprocket and the short belt with the engine still 'locked' from the long belt change, and then replacing same with a new belt ?? <<

I've got an MPi, so I haven't done this, but yes, I would say so... :o)
Rob Bell

Thanks Rob ..... :o)
Andy still at work !

The small cambelt is straight forward:

Keep the engine locked.

Note the alignment of the timing marks on the pulleys.

Note also that both pulleys have two marks (one on each face of the gear, 180 deg apart). This is because the same part does both applications, just turned round the other way.

For this reason it pays to put a paint mark on the aligned pair before dismantling as lining up a wrong combination will be a short cut to bent valves!

It is also important to investigate any lack of complete alignment of the marks when the crankshaft is locked onto the correct cam timing position. Misalignment could be a sign that one of the pins which key the pulleys to the camshafts has started to collapse, another precurser to valve tangle should it colapse completely. Check this before removing any of the pulleys, and replace all the pins if there is any doubt.
Paul Walbran

>> I have seen the (absolutely brilliant !!) video (cheers !). Am well happy with changing the long belt - am I correct in assuming that it is just a case of removing one sprocket and the short belt with the engine still 'locked' from the long belt change, and then replacing same with a new belt ?? <<
Not really, the rear belt is changed with the timing marks facing out before removing the belt, the reason being the cams lobes are off load and therefore the cams do not move when the belt is removed, making refitting much easier.After fitting the rear belt rotate the cams 180 degs so the timing marks on the rear gears are facing each other/inwards and then time up the front gears and lock and remove tensioner to fit the new belt, there is no need to remove the cam gears to fit a belt.The VVC engines all have manual tensioners and I would remove the 'tensioner' spring as I have seen these break and drop into the belt during service causing bent valves.
The roll pins are (IMO) purely alignment rather than drive pins and if they are taking any load means the cam bolts are undertorqued which will end in disaster if the bolts are not checked or replaced.
mike

Thanks Paul and Mike for your detailed advice.

It looks like the 'spring' had already been removed from the tensioner as there was absolutely no sign of it upon dismantling.
I was kind of forced into doing the long (front) belt first (new rear belt not arriving until tomorrow) but I understand what you are saying regarding the cam lobes being off load.
Hopefully all will go well tomorrow evening

Thanks again guys
Andy
Andy at Work

On VVC engines, the manual is very clear that the spring and the post HAVE to be removed (although this is not a requirement on MPi heads for some reason).

Good luck Andy :o)
Rob Bell

Thanks Rob
My neighbour has my manual (rave) at the mo otherwise I would have probably known that - lol

Just FYI - the water pump WAS a freelander style one but I have fitted the MGF one - was very little difference but the impeller was a different design (like a bucket type thing on the freelander one). I believe it is OK to fit the standard type but will report back if it caused any problems.

VVC belt and alternator belt should arrive tomorrow so will post when job is complete.
Just have to find some OAT now.....

Thanks everyone for the input

Regards
Andy
Andy at Work

I agree with Mike regarding the function of the roll pins being to locate rather than drive, and that collapse in them is an indicator about the bolts. (A bit of post-midnight brain fade on my part.) However, don't put back partially collapsed pins, whatever their function - it wouldn't be good practice.
Paul Walbran

Thanks Paul

Much appreciated.
Andy

UPDATE

All done
New belts fitted
New water pump
New Alternator belt
Fresh OAT
K&N cleaned and oiled
Suspension greased.

Thanks for all your advice Guys

Andy

I watched the video which will be most useful in my case. My car is a 97 MG F 1.8 MPI and the cambelt has not been changed yet. The car is only 33k but from 1997 anyway, and I am worry about possible age related belt damage.
I have a few questions if any of you people can kindly help. First is: manual or automatic tensioner? and what kind -or part number- of cambelt? The VIN is SARRDWBGMAD 018694 and engine number is 18K4FJ32397687. From previous experiences know that is not going to be easy to organize a cambelt change in Mendoza. Is it possible to change the belt without removing the engine? Looks very easy on the bench but into the engine bay...?
To A Hamlin sorry for kidnapping the thread and to all many thanks in advance.
Mike
JM Vega-P.

No need to remove the engine for cambelt change,in the video it was done for clarity. With suitable documentation,tools,spareparts and no time-stress it can be done by a decent garage and /or a DIYér ;O)
IMO the pulley bolt is the biggest obstacle. An air-tool + hardend (black) socket is probably the best way to deal with that bolt. Worked fine for me and prevented any hassle with need for removal of the starter etc. Best of luck, let us know how it went along. /Carl
Carl

This thread was discussed between 13/05/2006 and 18/05/2006

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