Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.



MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGF Technical - Windscreen structure metalic noise

Hi Guys,
My F now has a new noise, when I drive trough bumpy roads it makes some metallic noise from the windscreen frame, or the rigid arc under structure.
Is this happened to someone else? I tried to remove the interior plastic frame, but I couldn’t do it... maybe it need some adjusting inside?…

Thanks João
Joao Barros Gomes

Hi Joao,

I had a metallic noise on my last F which seemed to be coming from the steering area underneath the dashboard around the windscreen area.

It turned out to be a creaking cross-tube brace which runs the width of the front below the dashboard. Basically I was told there were insufficient welds holding the crosstube in place on the shell (the tube is 75mm dia). A easy way around this is to fix 2 exhaust type bolt brackets (75mm dia) sorry can't remember their proper name as close as you can to the extreme left and right sides of the tube next to the welds. quite easy to do, I'm no mechanic and the job was completed in half an hour. (drop out the glove box one side and fiddle around near the fuse board the other)

if it sounds like a metallic creaking then could well be this.

Hope this helps


Thanks Neil, I going to check it anyway, but it seams to me that the noise came more above near from the mirror center direction, not from the steering.
bye João
Joao Barros Gomes

Er, if the screen frame is really creaking then that can't be good, can it? Isn't this what's supposed to stop your head getting rubbed off if you flip the car over?
David Bainbridge

When I drive on bumpy roads, particlularly in curves, I sometimes hear a hight pitch noise from somewhere in the region of the front window. This only takes place when i drive with the soft top closed, never during top down driving regardless the speed.
Joao, does the noise go away if you unlatch one of the hood latches? In my car it does, but so far I have not been able to locate where it comes from.

can the noise be any of the cables, nocking against the frame ?
The mirror light wires lead on the LH side upwards and should be fixed under metalbrackets. In the area of the upper mirrow there is some space and a foam should be in place. It should, but may be it misses at your car ?

Dieter Koennecke

Hi guys
by the way Jon, the noise in my F apears no matter the hood is up or down, just disaper in winter time when its rain (more humid)so I figure that is structural and metalic, It also could be Dieter's problem,I just dont know how can I reach that spot?. I have try to remove the interior plastic finish, but it is dificult even after I remove the hood catchs and the sunbliders.

thanks anyway for all the help I can get.

Joao Barros Gomes

Joao, try injecting wax into the box sections behind the trim ,the creaking could be the two screen panels creaking at the welds,HTH

dunno what Mike means with *two screen panels creaking at the welds* ?

Joao, dismanteling the plastic finish is easy. As mentioned, remove the both catches and the mirrors.
The plastic covers are clamped to the screenframe with exactly the same clamps as the center console to the dash.
The clamps are located on thin lips of the plastic and pushed into square holes at the screen frame.
Can be worked out from top to the bottom with a strong grip and support with screw driver near to the clamp locations.

Take care on the top left (top right) corner. At this positions is another special clamp attached, which holds the plastic behind the seal and this position is difficult ro re-fit. At bottom lead of the sideparts is a foam sticker attached... don't loose it. Some pictures should be on my 'Tweeter to A-Frame webside' and on the 'for sale' page.

Don't bother if anything breaks. The three parts are the most cheap plastic parts at the MGF (5 EUR only per part)... the reason why mine from the wreck remain still un-sold in the garage ... LOL.

Dieter Koennecke

Thanks guys, I will try to do it in the next weekend, then I let I know if it works...

bye Joao
Joao Barros Gomes

Have you considered the possibility of a loose or worn hinge pin in the bonnet hinges? I had a rattle in the front dash area and it took me ages to track it down to this.
Nick Pinches

Hi again guys, I already remove the plastic trim, and injected wax inside, but the noise it still there :(
Nick, could you be more specific, because that noise became to happen when my F come from the dealer to recharge hydragas, could be also something under the bonnet?..
by the way Dieter, I didn't brake anything thanks to your indications.

Bye Joao
Joao Barros Gomes

Hi guys,

Just back from honeymoon and took the F for a ride yesterday.
I just realised how annoying the creaking cross-tube brace is.
It's been creaking for a long time but I think I got used to it !
Now, after 3 weeks without driving the car, I can no longer bear it !

I've always thought it's a complicate job to have it fixed by the dealer (remove all the dashboard ...)
Neil seems to say it's easier (1/2 h job)
Does anyone had this fixed by a dealer (cost, time ....)


Hi Jerome

My dealer (Priests of Chesham, Bucks.) advised me on this little fix, the official line is as you say, take out the dash etc. etc. major agg. for that annoying creak. It really is a simple job though, I'm no mechanic and managed the job easily. I surprised myself at the time as I'd set aside most of Saturday for messing about with it. The bracket on the glovebox side really is easy, just undo the screws fixing the whole glovebox assembly in place and you'll see acres of room to get to the cross-tube (unless you've got A/C fitted then sorry haven't got a clue!). The drivers side is a little more tricky, I ended up loosening the bolts holding the fuseboard in place just so I could ease it out of the way but let it hang temporarily on the wires etc. Used an extension bar to a socket set and threaded this up through the dash clutter (fusebox etc.) to get to the nut for tightening. Tightened the bolts good 'n' hard and it really did do the job. Not really sure why though to be honest...?

Not sure if a dealer would do this for you if the've not heard of it before. The technician and I use at Priests is Simon Newton - really good guy.

Hope this helps.
Cheers Neil


Thanks for the tip. Sounds good to me.
I'm not a mechanic neither (just enough to fit a K&N though !)

Nevertheless, my technical englisg is not good enough to fully understand what must be done.

Is it just a matter of tightening a screw up?

Could you please precise what you mean by "to fix 2 exhaust type bolt brackets (75mm dia) sorry can't remember their proper name as close as you can to the extreme left and right sides of the tube next to the weld"

Thanks again


Neil had a positive outcome I am glad to hear that.

Mine nope.

I need a full modification otherwise creaking will stay (adding more beams). I just turn up my radio now.

Went through it twice already.

Just keep the money = my advice
Hanah Kim

For the sake of only a few pounds the brackets are certaintly woth a try, as with all these fixes some work for all, some don't!

Jerome, the bracket is supposed to be used for fixing around straight joints in exhaust pipes. It's a U shaped pipe clip (75mmdia) which is threaded at each end to receive a further rounded bar to complete the circular tube shape, then each nut is spun on to the threads to create the clamp. I must be making heavy weather of this description, somebody put me out of my misery and tell me what these exhaust tube clamps are called!

Fit them as close to the inside face of the body shell, ie as far a part as you can get them on the cross tube. Sorry Jerome, if somebody out there can explain what I mean slightly more clearly - have a go!



Thanks for your efforts to make it clear !

From what I understand:
1/ Remove all the mess under the dashboard (globe box, fuse box) the best you can ....
2/ Pass the U-thingy around the tube the nearest you can from the body vertical panels (left and right side of the tube)
3/ Tighten the U bracket around the tube (no drilling required) with the nut

Technical drawing, please don't laugh (I'm sure you will) (well, will it make it clearer???)

-------------- Cross member bar ------------------
======== <-- body shell o
<------- U shapped bracket ------> U


Subsidiary question:
Where can you get this U shapped bracket and nuts?

Sorry to bother you with all those questions !


Well, it looks like the scheme doesn't appear properly :-(

I checked out Dieter's web site (cross member bar section) and it helped to understand:

In fact the cross member bar is welded on another short piece of tube (with a smaller diameter) that fit into it. This smaller tube is also welded on the body shell.

The small tube is properly welded on the frame, but the cross tube is not properly welded on the smaller tube and thus the creaking noise (Are you still following me?)

I guess that tightening the extremities of the cross member bar as with a vice reinforces the link

If I'm right, you really need to tighten the U-thingy very strongly

Thanks Dieter for those inestimable pictures !


Sorry to take a while to get back to you. The hinge pin I refer to is the actual hinge that the bonnet is secured to at either side of the car near the windscreen. When the bonnet is opened it 'hinges' around the two pins, one on either side of the car. They can be seen (just) with the bonnet closed, near to the screen. On my 'F' there must be a little wear between one of the pins and the hole through which it fits and the general vibration when travelling along created a rattle between the pin and the hole which drove me mad until I located the source and cured it by putting a little grease on it.

Nick Pinches

Hi Jerome,

Did you get the hang of what I was trying to say? I'll go and ask my technician at Priests MG to tell me what the proper name of those brackets are!


PS You're right you do have to tightened them good 'n' hard, NO drilling etc. required!


Yes, I think I got it now !

The french word for the bracket is "bride d'échappement"

Thanks for the tip, I'll hive it a try when I have the time.


You are describing U-bolts or U-clamps which are used to clamp exhaust pipes together. They are also used to attach the rear axle tube to the leaf springs of older cars. The description of the two tubes fitting inside one another makes sense and expalins why this fix should work. These clamps come in a very wide range of sizes and you should make sure you get the closest size to the tube involved.. They can be tightened VERY tight without damage. They are available in all motorist shops.
T Green

Hi guys,
I think this bracket thing really it works, today I put one bracket in the passenger side, and I think the noise was gone... (I hope), I only made a few miles but on a bumpy road, and no noise… I’m amazed. but it is hard working (at least for me). In the driver side I still can't do it, I will try tomorrow... by the way my car has air condition fitted and there is no problem with it.
( I post again if the dam noise comes back again)
Thanks to everybody
Bye Joao
Joao Barros Gomes

I'm glad it works for you !
I didn't try yet (I only removed the glove box this week-end to have a closer look at the thing)
I'll buy the U-clamps asap and give it a go.
By the way, how hard did you thigthen it? The cross member tube lokks quite strong and can't be bent easily imo.

Hi Jerome,

Don't be shy in tightening the brackets. If possible it may be worth tightening to what you feel is ok, leaving the glove box assembly off etc. and go for a drive. Joao seems to have cracked it with just one bracket fixed, just try it and see. I would go for both brackets in the long run for the sake of a few more minutes work.

Best of luck


Hi guys,
sorry to post so late, the noise unfortunately has progressively came back again after a few miles in bumpy roads. After all I only install one bracket (and I think it's not the proper one..), in the drivers side I didn't make anything yet, as I said it's not an easy task. It has to wait for the weekend... But one thing I'm almost sure, the noise came from that element…

Anyway my F is parked since last Monday, I am driving a brand new Black MGF TROPHY 160… and the only thing that I ear that’s a magnificent powered engine behind my head…. no need brackets yet :) unfortunately I have to turn it back tomorrow :(
I will write my impressions about it on MGF general soon, and I intend to bring back some more news about this thread noise problem

Bye Joao
Joao Barros Gomes

Hi João.

Sorry to see that your F has some noises that it shouldn't have...

Are you interested in the new Trophy??
How did you managed to get your hands into one?

Is it that good??

BTW, yesterday it was so hot that I drove on may way back home top down, despite the cloudy sky... Half the way it started raining! And I just kept on going!! Great feeling...

Cheers, Valter Fernandes.
Valter Fernandes

I just try to understand what's going around.
*g* can't get it complete.
Any picture availiable ? Nick ? Jerome ?
Could be an option for Hannah also, or has he already given in ?

Joao, take some pictures from below the car ;)
Exhaust and front hydragas unit if the suspension is released at the jacked up car.(piston and upper wishbone area)
Wanna see the piston and knuckle height :)
Dieter Koennecke

I Dieter I take some pictures of the car that Im going to send you, but I dont know if there any with the hydragas and so on(but I could take those photos later) however , I just turn back the trophy, by the way it belongs to a great friend of mine, who borrow me for a couple of days. He trade his 96 vvc with 100 000km on the clock for this beautiful black trophy 160 (he order this car a long time ago).
In my opinion this MG surprise me in engine response even at low revs, and the engine sound is something, could be the exhaust system or the air filter or both, in fact is very very attractive, other thigh that impresses is the braking capability, you could compare it almost with a boxter (maybe Im exaggerating a bit), there are really good front brakes, for those who dont know my F is a brg 1.8i from 98 (no abs ) so there is no comparison with it. The gear box is similar to the 2000 models, and the interiors visual are the same, I dont like my self the seat clots, I prefer the others leather vvc seats instead. The hood is equal to mine and the car is a bit expensive to the MG habitual quality level, here costs about 36162 euros.
Bye Joao
Joao Barros Gomes

Hi guys, you could find "my" MGF TROPHY 160 now on Dieter's page.... Thanks Dieter
Joao Barros Gomes

Sorry try this link instead...
Joao Barros Gomes

nice pictures. Thanks !
I added also Rogs Trophy scep differences to the trophy page.
Better sites exist, but who cares :)

Dieter Koennecke

Err, sorry Joao, written parallel.
Just back online.
Dieter Koennecke

Hi Joao, Dieter,

Nice pics!
I like the wheels, the brake calipers "a la Porsche" and the exhaust...
Well, I don't forget the clear front indicator lenses (just like mine now)

Have a nice (sunny) week-end


PS : Joao, wasn't it too hard to give it back to the dealer and go home with you car?

This thread was discussed between 15/07/2001 and 04/08/2001

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.