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MG MGF Technical - Wont Start

The car wouldn't start this morning, battery fine and starter moter turning but just as its about to bite it kept dieing.

I have had this problem before when it is has been wet. Taken to MGR garage who changed the leads, since then taken it back three times with same problem and they say 'sorry guv' and shrug their shoulders explaining they could run another test. Had the £80 test once which showed nothing.

Phoned MGR again this morning, "we could run a test if you like". To which I reply "is that going to help if so I will get AA to deliver today", "thats no good guv, were booked up till May 10th".

Finaly got to speak to an adult, who explained to me that all MGF's don't start in the wet and that most of their customers place bin liners over boot vents at night. Is he lying or does any one else do this?

Also suggested that I try using WD40 or damp start spray in engine bay. Does anyone know where I spray?

Sorry for the long rant but I'm stranded with absolutley no support from the MGR garage.

Is it just me or are all MGR garages usless, I also own a Rover and always my experience with the garages is painful. If MGR don't survive it will be down to the dealerships not the cars which are genraly good.
Tim

How old is your car Tim as it may be worth looking at the Distributor Cap and rotor arm, mine kept flooding and wouldnt start, i swopped these and (touch wood) no problems since....
Nick Walters

Or if a VVC the coils could be damaged as they are in a bad place for water ingress
Will Munns

Its a five year old VVC. Trouble is, the usless MGR garage won't look at it until the 10th May and its stranded outside my house.

Is there any sence in covering the boot vents?

Thank's for the help and advise.
tim

yes there is- it will alow them to dry out.
Will Munns

Tim,

Remove the plugs and check the gaps on them. Ensure they are closed up to 0.8mm. Spec is 0.9 +/- 0.1
If they are over the limit then car will not start in the wet.

I went through the 'cover the vents' business plus WD40. No good. Check condition of plugs and leads. Apparently the latest MGF (TFs possibly) have plug top coils which says it all. The VVCs, you and I have, have long plug leads which when exposed to a damp atmosphere places a heavy load on the coils. So check leads and plugs first. Don't overtighten the plugs when putting them back. If the plugs are old then consider a new set, well worth it. Saves all that swearing in the rain!

HTH

Bruce
Bruce Caldwell

Oh yes good point... how old are the plugs? if they havent been replaced yet then do so now- MGR say they are good for many more miles than they are. New plugs will be correctly gapped and the torque will be easily checked (read the back of the packet, thumb tight +1/2 turn I think) Don't over or under tighten - this is particually difficult to get right if you are removing the plugs and then reinserting them as they have used up the 1/2 turn give when they were first used. Clean the coils/leads and all HT bits as grime can conduct quite well at the voltages in the system, and if the sparks getting to ground easily thru the HT lead then it won't get into the engine block.

Will
Will Munns

And on a 5-year-old VVC the plugs, if 'maintained' according to schedule and you've not had the 5-year service yet, will be right at the end of the officially expected life - and as Will says, that's a very optimistic idea of MGR's.

E
Ed Clarke

Ok gang I had this problem for a long time. Went thru the usual MGR damp proofing and change of leads etc. Eventually the problem kept coming back. If think the coils are damp then usually WD40 doesn't help however I have used a hairdryer pointing at the coil for about 15-20mins on a number of occasions and the car has always started.
To solve the problem ... change ignition leads to magnecor ones it doesn't matter what type they both do the same job and neither provides any performance boost over the other. The Magnecor leads are constructed a lot better than the OEM leads. The key is the plug that fits over each HT connection on the coil. It has a tighter fit than the OEM lead and also does not crack as easily.
Secondly change the plugs every year ... go for standard double coppers - platinum tipped aren't really necessary unless you want to leave the plugs alone for a couple of years.
Thirdly (this ones an extra) when your battery dies replace with a high capacity VARTA battery (they are expensive but miles better than anything else out there).
Finally I used the cover over the boot vents for about a year (before doing any of the above). It worked perfectly. I still do cover the boot vent - now out of habit rather than need - it doesn't cost anything (just remeber to remove it when you drive off).

Gaz
('96 VVC)
Gaz

I had this too, at 28K miles on my 1998 VVC. Changed plugs and cleaned / damp-proofed coils and it seemed to fix it.

If the plugs haven't been changed (i.e. not done your 5 year service yet), check those first. Replace with the cheaper standard items incase it proves not to be them.

Then change ignition leads for the better ones. There have been cases of the coils themselves being the problem and needing to be replaced, but this is rare I think.

Hopefully that'll sort you out. Let us know how you get on, as it's always good to have another cure in the BBS Archive!

Oh, and I had no trouble starting when it was dry even when cold, or even when raining hard, as long as it wasn't damp, if you follow me. Fog was a killer though.

Leigh
Leigh

Also meant to say, don't keep turning it over if it doesn't start within the 1st minute or two. The engine gets flooded really quickly, and won't start after that happens. Better to leave it for 1/2 an hour before trying again. And no point flattening your battery too.

Leigh
Leigh

This thread was discussed on 30/04/2002

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGF Technical BBS is active now.