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MG TD TF 1500 - 1) TF Steering Wheel. 2) Starter Pulls

Don't want to take up too much space - so two questions at once.

1) The thread about steering wheel repair got me wondering. My '55 TF 1500 has a dark grey/black-rimmed steering wheel. At least that's what it looks like under the leather wrap that I'm too scared to take off (there are cracks near the spokes and who-knows-what under the wrap!). My British Motor Heritage certificate says the interior was originally red (it's now biscuit). Does anyone know if grey/black is the "correct" color? I would love to remove the wrap and repair it per some of the suggestions. The thing is, for some reason I thought all wheel rims were the swirly biege color. However, Clausager's book shows a TD with a grey/black rim.

2) In an earlier thread I talked about difficulty starting in cold weather (carbs and linkage are like new and all are well-adjusted now (wish I was!). Now that the temps are in the single digits and 'teens here at night, I'm really having trouble. I think that tonight I may have had a realization tho'. I kept the starter turning on each pull for a good five seconds, and it started on the third pull. In previous cold-weather attempts, I wouldn't pull the starter for more than a second or two 'cause I didn't want to fry it (aren't starter motors made for only short bursts?). Anyway, is there a consensus out there as to how long the starter can be cranked without causing damage? Am I on the right track? Again, after the car is warmed up, blazing summer, icey winter, unbearable humidity, ultra-dry, no matter, it starts with just a micro-second pull on the starter, so I don't think there is a tuning problem. Maybe just an operator problem!

Thanks so much,
Greg
Greg Van Hook

Greg,
Far as I know....wheel should be "swirly biege color".
Did you get a chance to try the little experament we spoke of "off" the BBS? "Maybe a thinner oil in the carb dampers? They are know to get a little "sticky" when cold. Our one Austin was one cold blooded SOB.
For an experiment ....see what happens if you warm up the carb bodies before a cold engine start? Pan of hot water and some rags...if she fires
right up then I would try thinner oil in the dampers."
Anybody else ever try this? I found out with our old Austin that when I "warmed" the carbs with hot rags it would fire right up even in single digit weather. Pretty sure at some point a PO had poured a little 50W oil in the carbs! Removed them ...drained and filled with a thinner oil and never had the problem again.
Cheers,
David
David Sheward

Greg, Back in the 60s always parked outside in 0-20 degree temperatures. One of our old tricks to start these cars was to turn on the headlights for 5 to 10 seconds, wait another 5 seconds with them off and start the engine. I remember somebody telling me that this procedure started the chemical reaction in the battery so when the starter demanded amperage on start-up it was there. Hope this helps, Gary
Gary L. Emes

Greg, remember this thing has carbs and a really wimpy ignition system. With high current draw from spinning a cold, stiff moter and low volts from a cold battery, the spark is weak. There can be moisture condensation in the inlet tract, pooling gasoline, etc. Remember that your modern iron has highly computerized fuel injection spraying pressurized fuel at the inlet valve, gigavolt spark with as huge gap, etc. You would have to crank it for a minute or two at those temps to fry the starter! I am way impressed that it starts at all and you actually drive it in that weather!
George Butz

Hi Greg, we don't have that problem here, quite the opposite in fact.

I would consider using a starting aid like a can of ether start for instance. Just a very quick squirt should do the trick.

We used to use it all the time to start diesel engines in very cold weather, and if used correctly will do no damage to anything.

Cheers,

Paul.
Paul van Gool

Thanks everybody, I think I was just being too wimpy with the starter. I have a habit of underestimating just how stout the car is. It's amazing that after 48 years it is so solid! Anyway, now I let it crank the first time for about ten seconds, then after a few seconds the second time, it starts. I was spoiled with the quick starts during the summer. Took a drive today. I'm pretty sure it's the first time in the car's life it's seen snow (ex-California car). Mid thirties, but with the hood up and all but the driver's side curtain on (no heater), it was comfortable.

Now, about that steering wheel.....?

Thanks again. Greg
Greg Van Hook

Greg
While it is not as cold here as it is in Pa. I start and drive my car in the winter. I would caution you in the use of ether. It can burn the tops of your piston out, if you use too much. WD- 40 will do the same thing with much less of injury to your car. There have been other post on this site about pre-oilers for our cars. After my engine rebuild I was worried about oil pressure and had thought about adding a "pre oiler" to my car. I asked one of the older members in my MG car club about this and for a recommendation for a pre-oiler. He said "leave the key off and pull the starter until you see oil pressur reading on the oil guage. All TD's have a built in pre-oiler." I mention this as you have stated you are worried about the time your starter is used, when trying to start in cold weather. I never start my car without using his advice, summer or winter. After oil pressure has been indicated by the guage, I turn on the key and let the the fuel pump stop ticking, pull the fast run cable (choke) and start the car. If you intend to drive alot in the winter you may want to change to a lighter weight oil. I use 10 W 30 all the time with no starter slow down or loss of oil pressure in the winter. Hope this helps John
P.S. A heater for a TD is a wool lap blanket. If you want to be origional.
John Hambleton

Gerg,
I started my first (53) TD, at temperatures as low as minus 30F with the following procedure. Ignition off and choke off hand crank about ten turns. In bitter cold this shears the thickened oil in the crank and rod bearings. Then full choke and hit the starter. Without the hand crank the starter motor could not budge the crankshaft at -30. This was around Buffalo NY 1959 and 1960. It always started and got me to class.

Jimbo6
53 TD
J. M. Haskins

This thread was discussed between 07/12/2002 and 09/12/2002

MG TD TF 1500 index

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