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MG TD TF 1500 - 52 TD points and condenser help?
Good evening all, I'm trying to help a friend get her TD up and running so she can take it to a professional shop and get it fixed. When it was parked in her garage about 3 months ago it ran very ruff. I checked the plugs and the point gap and they were ok. The condenser, points and distributor were covered with oil inside. I have cleaned them up and wanted to replace the condenser with a new Moss one from my spares box. (163-900) When I removed the old one in the distributor, it was about 2” long and held in place by a spring clamp connected to the fixing plate. The new Moss one out of the box is about ˝” long and held in place with a screw. This will not fit this distributor, unless I drill a hole in the fixing plate. Dose any one know where I might get one the correct length to fit a Lucas distributor that fits under the clamp as original. Cross over part numbers would be helpful also. I ordered these extra points, distributor caps, condensers and rotors when I did the engine rebuild. I haven’t needed them in nine years. So here I set with three condensers that are two short. I know, I should have opened the boxes then. Any way I need one ASAP! Thanks in advance for your help. John |
John Hambleton |
What she has is one of the older condensers as you note. I dont think those are available any longer. You can use the new one and just heat the solder to remove the larger original style condenser. The tab will pull off of the condenser body and can then be placed under the tab on the plate What makes you think that is the poblem. I would make sure the fuel bowls are clean and free of gunk. Also check for a stuck float. It could be the condenser, but I would also check those other things as well, plugs, fuel, Good luck |
J Delk |
You could resolder in the new one, but you could also fry it as well. The original long style condensor was supplied with the entire breaker plate as one part, NLS for years. Very easy to cut the old one off (the wrap around metal) flush, and as you said, drill a hole in the plate to mount the new style. Best to tap the hole in the plate and use a machine screw, but you could also use a sheet metal screw in a pinch. Then later toss that mess and go electronic! As J says above, check other things too. Include the coil wire where it goes into the cap and the coil- they have a nasty tendency to burn. Lots of defective rotors around. Replace the spark plugs- forget about cleaning them. With the really low voltage spark, they can foul and die easily. Make sure there is really fuel in the float bowls- and that it smells like fresh gasoline- not like rotten paint thinner or some other smell indicating the gas has gone bad. Good luck. George |
George Butz |
John I have a couple of spare plates with the condenser on it. I run electronic, so I would be willing to part with one. Send me an e-mail if intersted. cunhab@charter.net |
Bruce Cunha |
J, George and Bruce I don't have the technical expertise to test the condenser. So I used the test procedure outlined in the work shop manual. After doing that it started right up. Thanks for all your help. John |
John Hambleton |
John, If your friend plans to drive the TD after it runs, do her a favor and have her order a pertronix. The car will run better and you won't need to worry about the condenser and points again. Just my opinion, but I'm sure others will agree. Good luck, Evan |
Evan Ford - TD 27621 |
This thread was discussed between 31/10/2006 and 01/11/2006
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